^t  ^.  p.  pm  pkarg 


^ortlf  Carolina  ^tate  dollege 

5b551 


NORTH  rapni  ina 


fiiii'iiimi 


S00543911    N 


JAN  2  S  1998 

THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


S££^  8  1983 
JUL-SOB^ 


FEB  23^}^ 


\ 


0",^^ 


100M/ 10-80 


CULINARY  HERBS 


Herbs  and  Children,  a  Happy  Harmony 


CULINARY 
HERBS 

Their  Cultivation,  Harvesting,  Curing  and  Uses 


By 
M.    G.    KAINS 

Associate  Editor  American  Agriculturist 


NEW  YORK 
ORANGE   JUDD   COMPANY 

LONDON 

KEGAN  PAUL,  TRENCH,  TRUBNER  &  CO.,  Limited 

1920 


Copyright,  1912 
ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 

All  Rights  Reserved 


Entered  at  Stationers'  Hall,  London,  England 


Printed  in  U.  S.  A. 


Ah,  Zephyrus !  art  here,  and  Flora  too ! 

Ye  tender  bibbers  of  the  rain  and  dew. 

Young  playmates  of  the  rose  and  daffodil, 

Be  careful,  ere  ye  enter  in,  to  fill 

Your  baskets  high 

With  fennel  green,  and  balm,  and  golden  pines, 

Savory,  latter -mint,  and  columbines, 

Cool  parsley,  basil  sweet,  and  sunny  thyme ; 

Yea,  every  flower  and  leaf  of  every  clime. 

All  gather'd  in  the  dewy  mom  :  hie 

Away!  fly,  fly! 

— Keats,  '*  Endymion  ** 


PREFACE 

A  small  boy  who  wanted  to  make  a  good  impres- 
sion once  took  his  little  sweetheart  to  an  ice  cream 
parlor.  After  he  had  vainly  searched  the  list  oi 
edibles  for  something  within  his  means,  he  whis- 
pered to  the  waiter,  ''Say,  Mister,  what  you  got  that 
looks  tony  an'  tastes  nice  for  nineteen  cents?" 

This  is  precisely  the  predicament  in  which  many 
thousand  people  are  today.  Like  the  boy,  they  have 
skinny  purses,  voracious  appetites  and  mighty 
yearnings  to  make  the  best  possible  impjression 
within  their  means.  Perhaps  having  been  '*invit"ed 
out,"  they  learn  by  actual  demonstration  that  the 
herbs  are  culinary  magicians  which  convert^  cheap 
cutsand  ''scraps"  into  toothsome  dainties.  They 
are  thus  aroused  to  the  fact  that  by  using  herbs 
they  can  afiford  to  play  host  and  hostess  to  a  larger 
number  of  hungry  and  envious  friends  than  ever 
before. 

Maybe  it  is  mainly  due  to  these  yearnings  and  to 
the  memories  of  mother's  and  grandmother's  famous 
dishes  that  so  many  inquiries  concerning  the  propa- 
gation, cultivation,  curing  and  uses  of  culinary  herbs 
are  asked  of  authorities  on  gardening  and  cookery; 
and  maybe  it  is  because  no  one  has  really  loved  the 
herbs  enough  to  publish  a  book  on  the  subject.  That 
herbs  are  easy  to  grow  I  can  abundantly  attest,  for 
I  have  grown  them  all.  I  can  also  bear  ample  wit- 
ness to  the  fact  that  they  reduce  the  cost  of  high 


PREFACE 

living,  if  by  that  phrase  is  meant  pleasing  the  palate 
without  offending  the  purse. 

For  instance,  a  few  days  ago  a  friend  paid  twenty 
cents  for  soup  beef,  and  five  cents  for  "soup  greens." 
The  addition  of  salt,  pepper  and  other  ingredients 
brought  the  initial  cost  up  to  twenty-nine  cents. 
This  made  enough  soup  for  ten  or  twelve  liberal 
servings.  The  lean  meat  removed  from  the  soup 
was  minced  and  mixed  with  not  more  than  ten  cents' 
worth  of  diced  potatoes,  stale  bread  crumbs,  milk, 
seasoning  and  herbs  before  being  baked  as  a  supper 
dish  for  five  people,  who  by  their  bland  smiles  and 
"scotch  plates"  attested  that  the  viands  both  looked 
"tony"  and  tasted  nice. 

I  am  glad  to  acknowledge  my  thanks  to  Mr.  N  .R. 
Graves  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  Prof.  R.  L.  Watt? 
of  the  Pennsylvania  State  Agricultural  College,  for 
the  photographic  illustrations,  and  to  Mr.  B.  F. 
Williamson,  the  Orange  Judd  Co.'s  artist,  for  the 
pen  and  ink  drawings  which  add  so  much  to  the 
value,  attractiveness  and  interest  of  these  pages. 

If  this  book  shall  instill  or  awaken  in  its  readers 
the  wholesome  though  "cupboard"  love  that  the  culi- 
nary herbs  deserve  both  as  permanent  residents  of 
the  garden  and  as  masters  of  the  kitchen,  it  will  have 
accomplished  the  object  for  which  it  was  written. 

M.  G.  Kains. 

New  York,  1912. 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Preface  v 

A  Dinner  of  Herbs 7 

Culinary  Herbs  Defined 11 

History 12 

Production  of  New  Varieties 15 

Status  and  Uses 19 

Notable  Instance  of  Uses 21 

Methods  of  Curing 22 

Drying  and  Storing 25 

Herbs  as  Garnishes 30 

Propagation,  Seeds  32 

Cuttings 34 

Layers   36 

Division 37 

Transplanting    39 

Implements 41 

Location  of  Herb  Garden 44 

The  Soil  and  Its  Preparation 45 

Cultivation   47 

Double  Cropping  48 

Herb  Relationships  ._  49 

The  Herb  List : 

Angelica    .■')5 

Anise   59 

Balm 63 

Basil 65 

Borage 71 

Caraway    73 

Catnip    77 

Chervil 79 

Chives    80 

Clary 81 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Coriander   82 

Cumin 84 

Dill  87 

Fennel   89 

Finocchio    93 

Fennel  Flower 94 

Hoarhound 95 

Hyssop    96 

Lavender 97 

Lovage    99 

Marigold    100 

Marjoram 101 

Mint  105 

Parsley    109 

Pennyroyal 119 

Peppermint    119 

Rosemary  120 

Rue    123 

Sage 125 

Samphire    129 

Savory,   Summer   131 

Savory,   Winter  132 

Southernwood    133 

Tansy    134 

Tarragon 134 

Thyme 137 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Herbs  and  Children,  a  Happy  Harmony Frontispiece 

Spading  Fork  1 

Barrel  Culture  of  Herbs ^ 

Transplanting  Board  and  Dibble 5 

Assortment  of  Favorite  Weeders 8 

Popular  Adjustable  Row  Marker 10 

Popular  Spades 13 

Lath  Screen  for  Shading  Beds 16 

Harvesting  Thyme  Grovv^n  on  a  Commercial  Scale 18 

Garden  Hoes  of  Various  Styles 20 

Dried  Herbs  in  Paper  and  Tin 22 

Herb  Solution  Bottle 24 

Paper  Sacks  of  Dried  Herbs  for  Home  Use 26 

Hand  Cultivator  and  Scarifier 27 

Flat  of  Seedlings  Ready  to  Be  Transplanted 32 

Glass  Covered  Propagating  Box 34 

Flower  Pot  Propagating  Bed 35 

Holt's  Mammoth  and  Common  Sage 38 

Marker  for  Hotbeds  and  Cold  Frames 39 

Leading  Forms  of  Trowels 40 

Wooden    Dibbles   43 

Combination   Hand   Plow 45 

Surface  Paring  Cultivator 47 

Thinning  Scheme  for  Harvesting 48 

Center  Row  Hand  Cultivator ~  50 

Hand  Plow 52 

Prophecy  of  Many  Toothsome  Dishes 56 

Anise  in  Flower  and  in  Fruit 60 

Sweet  Basil  ^^ 

Borage,  Famous  for  "Cool  Tankard" 70 

Caraway  for  Comfits  and  Birthday  Cakes 74 

Catnip,  Pussy's  Delight 78 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Pag« 

Coriander,  for  Old-Fashioned  Candies 82 

Dill,  of  Pickle  Fame 86 

Sweet  Fennel    90 

Sweet  Marjoram 102 

Mint,  Best  Friend  of  Roast  Lamb 106 

Curled  Parsley 110 

Rue,  Sour  Herb  of  Grace 124 

Sage,  The  Leading  Herb  for  Duck  and  Goose  Dressing..  126 

Holt's  Mammoth  and  Common  Sage  Leaves 129 

Dainty  Summer  Savory  130 

Tarragon,   French  Chef's  Delight 135 

Thyme  for  Sausage 137 


"■    A  Vj^.. 


CULINARY  HERBS 


In  these  days  of  jaded  appetites,  condiments  and 
canned  goods,  how  fondly  we  turn  from  the  dreary 
monotony  of  the  ''dainty"  menu  to  the  memory  of 
the  satisfying  dishes  of  our  mothers!  What  made 
us,  like  Oliver  Twist,  ask  for  more?  Were  those 
flavors  real,  or  was  it  association  and  natural,  youth- 
ful hunger  that  enticed  us  ?  Can  we  ever 
forget  them ;  or,  what  is  more  practical, 
can  we  again  realize  them?  We  may 
find  the  secret  and  the  answer  in  moth- 
er's garden.    Let's  peep  in. 

The  garden,  as  in  memory  we  view 
it,  is  not  remarkable  except  for  its  neat- 
ness and  perhaps  the  mixing  of  flowers, 
fruits  and  vegetables  as  we  never  see 
them  jumbled  on  the  table.  Strawber- 
ries and  onions,  carrots  and  currants, 
potatoes  and  poppies,  apples  and  sweet 
corn  and  many  other  as  strange  com- 
rades, all  grow  together  in  mother's 
garden  in  the  utmost  harmony. 

All  these  are  familiar  friends ;  but  what  are  those 
plants  near  the  kitchen?  They  are  ''mother's  sweet 
herbs."  We  have  never  seen  them  on  the  table. 
They  never  played  leading  roles  such  as  those  of  the 
cabbage  and  the  potato.  They  are  merely  members 
of  "the  cast"  which  performed  the  small  but  important 
parts  in  the  production  of  the  pleasing  tout  ensemble 


Spading  Fork 


mffllT  LBBABT 


CULINARY    HERBS 


— soup,  stew,  sauce,  or  salad — the  remembrance  of 
which,  like  that  of  a  well-staged  and  well-acted 
drama,  lingers  in  the  memory  long  after  the  actors 
are  forgotten. 

Probably  no  culinary  plants  have  during  the  last 
50  years  been  so  neglected.     Especially  during  the 

''ready-to-serve"  food 
campaign  of  the  closed 
quarter  century  did 
they  suffer  most. 
But  they  are  again 
coming  into  their 
own.  Few  plants  are 
so  easily  cultivated 
and  prepared  for  use. 
With  the  exception  of 
the  onion,  none  may 
be  so  effectively  em- 
ployed and  none  may 
so  completely  trans- 
form the  ''left-over" 
as  to  tempt  an  other- 
wise balky  appetite  to 
indulge  in  a  second 
serving  without  being  urged  to  perform  the  homely 
duty  of  "eating  it  to  save  it."  Indeed,  sweet  herbs 
^are,  or  should  be,  the  boon  of  the  housewife,  since 
'  they  make  for  both  pleasure  and  economy.  The 
soup  may  be  made  of  the  most  wholesome,  nutri- 
tious and  even  costly  materials ;  the  fish  may  be 
boiled  or  baked  to  perfection ;  the  joint  or  the  roast 
and  the  salad  may  be  otherwise  faultless,  but  if  they 


Ji^^W 

w  k  ^ 

==:^?-- 

^li^w^ 

Bjfti 

pi:?- 

8£^>- 

|;gv:|p 

-_  -_ . 

' "  ■ .  •  ■  ■/.■'■".■ 

[[■'■iXfj^^.'.'  ■■■  '.■  • 

S§ 

:■'■::'■  "_■■;•■-■  "S>iri 

11^^/  ■■•'■Vj^:; 

Jl-Z-T; 

III 

Jlv^/I  ■>?■'■• 

■§1- 

■■'■■■''■-■  y'^^k 

vf.^vi^'tiV'-' '■•■■'  ■  ;. 

>"_-l-" 

\:-::w:::}:y0>' 

Barrel    Culture    of    Herbs 


CULINARY   HERBS  3 

lack  flavor  they  will  surely  fail  in  their  mission,  and 
none  of  the  neighbors  will  plot  to  steal  the  cook, 
as  they  otherwise  might  did  she  merit  the  reputation 
that  she  otherwise  might,  by  using  culinary  herbs. 

This  doleful  condition  may  be  prevented  and  the 
cook  enjoy  an  enviable  esteem  by  the  judicious  use 
of  herbs,  singly  or  in  combination.  It  is  greatly 
to  be  regretted  that  the  uses  of  these  humble  plants, 
which  seem  to  fall  lower  than  the  dignity  of  the  title 
"vegetable,"  should  be  so  little  understood  bv  intelli- 
gent American  housewives. 

In  the  flavoring  of  prepared  dishes  we  Americans — 
people,  as  the  French  say,  "of  one  sauce" — might 
well  learn  a  lesson  from  the  example  of  the  English 
matron  who  usually  considers  her  kitchen  incom- 
plete without  a  dozen  or  more  sweet  herbs,  either  pow- 
dered, or  in  decoction,  or  preserved  in  both  ways. 
A  glance  into  a  French  or  a  German  culinary  depart- 
ment would  probably  show  more  than  a  score ;  but  a 
careful  search  in  an  American  kitchen  would  rarely 
reveal  as  many  as  half  a  dozen,  and  in  the  great 
majority  probably  only  parsley  and  sage  would  be 
brought  to  light.  Yet  these  humble  plants  possess 
the  power  of  rendering  even  unpalatable  and  insipid 
dishes  piquant  and  appetizing,  and  this,  too,  at  a 
surprisingly  low  cost.  Indeed,  most  of  them  may  be 
grown  in  an  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  garden,  or 
if  no  garden  be  available,  in  a  box  of  soil  upon  a 
sunny  windowsill — a  method  adopted  by  many  for- 
eigners living  in  tenement  houses  in  New  York  and 
Jersey  City.  Certainly  they  may  be  made  to  add 
to  the  pleasure  of  living  and,  as  Solomon  declares. 


4  CULINARY    HERBS 

"better  is  a  dinner  of  herbs  where  love  is,  than  a 
stalled  ox  with  contention." 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  moving  picture  show 
and  the  soda  water  fountain  have  such  an  influence 
in  breaking  up  old-fashioned  family  evenings  at 
home  when  everyone  gathered  around  the  evening 
lamp  to  enjoy  homemade  dainties.  In  those  good 
old  days  the  young  man  was  expected  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  young  woman  in  the  home. 
The  girl  took  pride  in  serving  solid  and  liquid  culi- 
nary goodies  of  her  own  construction.  Her  mother, 
her  all-sufficient  guide,  mapped  out  the  sure,  safe, 
and  orthodox  highway  to  a  man's  heart  and  saw  to 
it  that  she  learned  how  to  play  her  cards  with  skill 
and  precision.  Those  were  the  days  when  a  larger 
proportion  "lived  happy  ever  after"  than  in  modern 
times,  when  recreation  and  refreshment  are  sought 
more  frequently  outside  than  inside  the  walls  of 
home. 

But  it  is  not  too  late  to  learn  the  good  old  ways 
over  again  and  enjoy  the  good  old  culinary  dainties. 
Whoever  relishes  the  summer  cups  that  cheer  but 
do  not  inebriate  may  add  considerably  to  his  enjoy- 
ment by  using  some  of  the  sweet  herbs.  Spearmint 
adds  to  lemonade  the  pleasing  pungency  it  as  readily 
imparts  to  a  less  harmful  but  more  notorious  bever- 
age. The  blue  or  pink  flowers  of  borage  have  long 
been  famous  for  the  same  purpose,  though  they  are 
perhaps  oftener  added  to  a  mixture  of  honey  and 
water,  to  grape  juice,  raspberry  vinegar  or  straw- 
berry acid.  All  that  is  needed  is  an  awakened  desire 
to  re-establish  home  comforts  and  customs,  then  a 


CULINARY    HERBS  5 

little  later  experimentation  will  soon  fix  the  herb 
habit. 

The  list  of  home  confections  may  be  very  pleas- 
ingly extended  by  candying  the  aromatic  roots  of 
lovage,  and  thus  raising  up  a  rival  to  the  candied 
ginger  said  to  be  imported  from  the  Orient.  If  any- 
one likes  coriander  and  caraway — I  confess  that  I 
don't — he  can  sugar  the  seeds  to  make  those  little 
''comfits,"  the  candies  of  our  childhood  which  our 
mothers  tried  to  make  us  think  we  liked  to  crunch 


Transplanting  Board  and  Dibble 

either  separately  or  sprinkled  on  our  birthday  cakes. 
Those  were  before  the  days  when  somebody's  name 
was  "stamped  on  every  piece"  to  aid  digestion.  Can 
we  ever  forget  the  picnic  when  we  had  certain  kinds 
of  sandwiches?  Our  mothers  minced  sweet  fennel, 
the  tender  leaves  of  sage,  marjoram  or  several  other 
herbs,  mixed  them  with  cream  cheese,  and  spread  a 
layer  between  two  thin  slices  of  bread.     Perhaps  it 


6  CULINARY    HERBS 

was  the  swimming,  or  the  three-legged  racing,  or  the 
swinging,  or  all  put  together,  that  put  a  razor  edge 
on  our  appetites  and  made  us  relish  those  sand- 
wiches more  than  was  perhaps  polite ;  but  will  we 
not,  all  of  us  who  ate  them,  stand  ready  to  dispute 
with  all  comers  that  it  was  the  flavors  that  made 
us  forget  *'our  manners"? 

But  sweet  herbs  may  be  made  to  serve  another 
pleasing,  an  aesthetic  purpose.  Many  of  them  may 
be  used  for  ornament.  A  bouquet  of  the  pale  pink 
blossoms  of  thyme  and  the  delicate  flowers  of  mar- 
joram, the  fragrant  sprigs  of  lemon  balm  mixed  with 
the  bright  yellow  umbels  of  sweet  fennel,  the  finely 
divided  leaves  of  rue  and  the  long  glassy  ones  of 
bergamot,  is  not  only  novel  in  appearance  but  In 
odor.  In  sweetness  it  excels  even  sweet  peas  and 
roses.  Mixed  with  the  brilliant  red  berries  of  bar- 
berry and  multiflora  rose,  and  the  dark-green 
branches  of  the  hardy  thyme,  which  continues  fresh 
and  sweet  through  the  year,  a  handsome  and  lasting 
bouquet  may  be  made  for  a  midwinter  table  decora- 
tion, a  fragrant  reminder  of  Shakespeare's  lines  in 
"A  Winter's  Tale" : 

"  Here's  flowers  for  you  ; 
Hot  lavender,  mints,  savory,  marjoram  ; 
The  marigold,  that  goes  to  bed  wi'  the  sun 
And  with  him  rises  weeping." 

The  rare  aroma  of  sweet  marjoram  reminds  so 
many  city  people  of  their  mother's  and  their  grand- 
mother's country  gardens,  that  countless  muslin 
bags  of  the  dried  leaves  sent  to  town  ostensibly  for 
stuffing  poultry  never  reach  the  kitchen  at  all,  but 


CULINARY   HERBS  7 

are  accorded  more  honored  places  in  the  living  room. 
They  are  placed  in  the  sunlight  of  a  bay  window 
where  Old  Sol  may  coax  forth  their  prisoned  odors 
and  perfume  the  air  with  memories  of  childhood 
summers  on  the  farm. 

Other  memories  cling  to  the  delicate  little  lav- 
ender, not  so  much  because  the  owner  of  a  well- 
filled  linen  closet  perfumed  her  spotless  hoard  with 
its  fragrant  flowers,  but  because  of  more  tender 
remembrances.  Would  any  country  wedding  chest 
be  complete  without  its  little  silk  bags  filled  with 
dried  lavender  buds  and  blooms  to  add  the  finish- 
ing touch  of  romance  to  the  dainty  trousseau  of 
linen  and  lace?  What  can  recall  the  bridal  year 
so  surely  as  this  same  kindly  lavender? 

A  DINNER  OF  HERBS 

In  an  article  published  in  American  Agrictilturist, 
Dora  M.  Morrell  says :  ''There  is  an  inference  that  a 
dinner  of  herbs  is  rather  a  poor  thing,  one  not  to 
be  chosen  as  a  pleasure.  Perhaps  it  might  be  if  it 
came  daily,  but,  for  once  in  a  while,  try  this  which 
I  am  going  to  tell  you. 

'To  prepare  a  dinner  of  herbs  in  its  best  estate  you 
should  have  a  bed  of  seasonings  such  as  our  grand- 
mothers had  in  their  gardens,  rows  of  sage,  of  spicy 
mint,  sweet  marjoram,  summer  savory,  fragrant 
thyme,  tarragon,  chives  and  parsley.  To  these  we 
may  add,  if  we  take  herbs  in  the  Scriptural  sense, 
nasturtium,  and  that  toothsome  esculent,  the  onion, 
as  well  as  lettuce.     If  you  wish  a  dinner  of  herbs 


8  CULINARY    HERBS 

and  have  not  the  fresh,  the  dried  will  serve,  but  parsley 
and  mint  you  can  get  at  most  times  in  the  markets,  or  in 
country  gardens,  where  they  often  grow  wild. 

'*Do  you  know,  my  sister  housewife,  that  if  you 
were  to  have  a  barrel  sawed  in  half,  filled  with  good 
soil,  some  holes  made  in  the  side  and  then  placed 
the  prepared  half  barrel  in  the  sun,  you  could  have 
an  herb  garden  of  your  own  the  year  through,  even 
if  you  live  in  a  city  flat?  In  the  holes  at  the  sides 
you  can  plant  parsley,  and  it  will  grow  to  cover  the 


Assortment  of  Favorite  Weeders 

barrel,  so  that  you  have  a  bank  of  green  to  look 
upon.  On  the  top  of  the  half  barrel  plant  your  mint, 
sage,  thyme  and  tarragon.  Thyme  is  so  pleasing  a 
plant  in  appearance  and  fragrance  that  you  may 
acceptably  give  it  a  place  among  those  you  have  in 
your  window  for  ornament. 

''The  Belgians  make  a  parsley  soup  that  might 
begin  your  dinner,  or  rather  your  luncheon.  For  the 
soup,  thicken  flour  and  butter  together  as  for  drawn 
butter  sauce,  and  when  properly  cooked  thin  to  soup 
consistency  with  milk.    Flavor  with  onion  juice,  salt 


CULINARY    HERBS  9 

and  pepper.  Just  before  serving  add  enough  pars- 
ley cut  in  tiny  bits  to  color  the  soup  green.  Serve 
croutons  with  this. 

"For  the  next  course  choose  an  omelette  with  fine 
herbs.  Any  cookbook  will  give  the  directions  for 
making  the  omelette,  and  all  that  will  be  necessary 
more  than  the  book  directs  is  to  have  added  to  it 
minced  thyme,  tarragon  and  chives  before  folding, 
or  they  may  be  stirred  into  the  omelette  before 
cooking. 

'Instead  of  an  omelette  you  may  have  eggs  stufifed 
with  fine  herbs  and  served  in  cream  sauce.  Cut 
hard-boiled  eggs  in  half  the  long  way  and  remove 
the  yolks.  Mash  and  season  these,  adding  the 
herbs,  as  finely  minced  as  possible.  Shape  again  like 
yolks  and  return  to  the  whites.  Cover  with  a  hot 
cream  sauce  and  serve  before  it  cools.  Both  of  these 
dishes  may  be  garnished  with  shredded  parsley  over 
the  top. 

"With  this  serve  a  dish  of  potatoes  scalloped  with 
onion.  Prepare  by  placing  in  alternate  layers  the 
two  vegetables ;  season  well  with  salt,  pepper  and 
butter,  and  then  add  milk  even  with  the  top  layer. 
This  dish  is  quite  hearty  and  makes  a  good  supper 
dish  of  itself. 

"Of  course  you  will  not  have  a  meal  of  this  kind 
without  salad.  For  this  try  a  mixture  of  nasturtium 
leaves  and  blossoms,  tarragon,  chives,  mint,  thyme 
and  the  small  leaves  of  the  lettuce,  adding  any  other 
green  leaves  of  the  spicy  kind  which  you  find  to 
taste  good.  Then  dress  these  with  a  simple  oil  and 
vinegar  dressing,  omitting  sugar,  mustard  or  any 


10  CULINARY   HERBS 

such  flavoring,  for  there  is    spice    enough    in    the 
leaves  themselves. 

'Tass  with  these,  if  you  will,  sandwiches  made 
with  lettuce  or  nasturtium  dressed  with  mayonnaise. 
You  may  make  quite  a  different  thing  of  them  by 
adding  minced  chives  or  tarragon,  or  thyme,  to  the 
mayonnaise.  The  French  are  very  partial  to  this 
manner  of  compounding  new  sauces  from  the  base 
of  the  old  one.  After  you  do  it  a  few  times  you  also 
will  find  it  worth  while. 


Popular  Adjustable  Row  Marker 


"When  it  comes  to  a  dessert  I  am  afraid  you  will 
have  to  go  outside  of  herbs.  You  can  take  a  cream 
cheese  and  work  into  it  with  a  silver  knife  any  of 
these  herbs,  or  any  two  of  them  that  agree  with  it 
well,  and  serve  it  with  toasted  crackers,  or  you  can 
toast  your  crackers  with  common  cheese,  grating 
above  it  sage  and  thyme." 

Whether  this  ''dinner  of  herbs"  appeals  to  the 
reader  or  not,  I  venture  to  say  that  no  housewife 


CULINARY    HERBS  II 

who  has  ever  stuffed  a  Thanksgiving  turkey,  a 
Christmas  goose  or  ducks  or  chickens  v^ith  home- 
grown, home-prepared  herbs,  either  fresh  or  dried, 
will  ever  after  be  willing  to  buy  the  paper  packages 
or  tin  cans  of  semi-inodorous,  prehistoric  dust  which 
masquerades  equally  well  as  *'fresh"  sage,  summer 
savory,  thyme  or  something  else,  the  only  apparent 
difference  being  the  label. 

To  learn  to  value  herbs  at  their  true  worth  one 
should  grow  them.  Then  every  visitor  to  the  garden 
will  be  reminded  of  some  quotation  from  the  Bible, 
or  Shakespeare  or  some  other  repository  of  interest- 
ing thoughts;  for  since  herbs  have  been  loved  as 
long  as  the  race  has  lived  on  the  earth,  literature  is 
full  of  references  to  facts  and  fancies  concerning 
them.  Thus  the  herb  garden  will  become  the  nu- 
cleus around  which  cluster  hoary  legends,  gems  of 
verse  and  lilts  of  song,  and  where  one  almost  stoops 
to  remove  his  shoes,  for 

"The  wisdom  of  the  ages 
Blooms  anew  among  the  sages." 

CULINARY  HERBS  DEFINED 

It  may  be  said  that  sweet  or  culinary  herbs  are 
those  annual,  biennial  or  perennial  plants  whose 
green  parts,  tender  roots  or  ripe  seeds  have  an 
aromatic  flavor  and  fragrance,  due  either  to  a  vola- 
tile oil  or  to  other  chemically  named  substances 
peculiar  to  the  individual  species.  Since  many  of  them 
have  pleasing  odors  they  have  been  called  sweet,  and 
since  they  have  been  long  used  in  cookery  to  add  their 


12  CULINARY    HERBS 

characteristic  flavors  to  soups,  stews,  dressings,  sauces 
and  salads,  they  are  popularly  called  culinary.  This  last 
designation  is  less  happy  than  the  former,  since  many 
other  herbs,  such  as  cabbage,  spinach,  kale,  dande- 
lion and  collards,  are  also  culinary  herbs.  These 
vegetables  are,  hov^ever,  probably  more  v^idely 
known  as  potherbs  or  greens. 

HISTORY 

It  seems  probable  that  many  of  the  flavoring 
herbs  now  in  use  were  similarly  employed  before  the 
erection  of  the  pyramids  and  also  that  many  then 
popular  no  longer  appear  in  modern  lists  of  escu- 
lents. Of  course,  this  statement  is  based  largely 
upon  imperfect  records,  perhaps,  in  many  cases  only 
hints  more  or  less  doubtful  as  to  the  various  species. 
But  it  seems  safe  to  conclude  that  a  goodly  number 
of  the  herbs  discussed  in  this  volume,  especially 
those  said  to  be  natives  of  the  Mediterranean  region, 
overhung  and  perfumed  the  cradle  of  the  human 
race  in  the  Orient  and  marked  the  footsteps  of  our 
rude  progenitors  as  they  strode  more  and  more 
sturdily  toward  the  horizon  of  promise.  This  idea 
seems  to  gain  support  also  from  the  fact  that  certain 
Eastern  peoples,  whom  modern  civilization  declares 
to  have  uneducated  tastes,  still  employ  many  herbs 
which  have  dropped  by  the  wayside  of  progress,  or 
like  the  caraway  and  the  redoubtable  "pusley,"  an 
anciently  popular  potherb,  are  but  known  in  western 
lands  as  troublesome  weeds. 

Relying  upon  Biblical  records  alone,  several  herbs 


CULINARY    HERBS 


13 


were  highly  esteemed  prior  to  our  era;  in  the  gos- 
pels of  Matthew  and  Luke  reference  is  made  to 
tithes  of  mint,  anise,  rue,  cummin  and  other  ''herbs"  ; 
and,  more  than  700  years  previously,  Isaiah  speaks 
of  the  sowing  and  threshing  of  cummin  which,  since 
the  same  passage  (Isaiah  xxviii,  25)  also  speaks  of 
''fitches"  (vetches),  wheat,  barley 
and  "rie"  (rye),  seems  then  to 
have  been  a  valued  crop. 

The  development  of  the  herb 
crops  contrasts  strongly  with  that 
of  the  other  crops  to  which  refer- 
ence has  just  been  made.  Where- 
as these  latter  have  continued  to 
be  staples,  and  to  judge  by  their 
behavior  during  the  last  century 
may  be  considered  to  have  im- 
proved in  quality  and  yield  since 
that  ancient  time,  the  former  have 
dropped  to  the  most  subordinate 
position  of  all  food  plants.  They 
have  lost  in  number  of  species, 
and  have  shown  less  improvement  than  perhaps  any 
other  groups  of  plants  cultivated  for  economic  pur- 
poses. During  the  century  just  closed  only  one 
species,  parsley,  may  be  said  to  have  developed 
more  than  an  occasional  improved  variety.  And 
even  during  this  period  the  list  of  species  seems 
to  have  been  somewhat  curtailed — tansy,  hyssop,  hore- 
hound,  rue  and  several  others  being  considered  of 
too  pronounced  and  even  unpleasant  flavor  to  suit 
cultivated  palates. 


Popular  Spades 


14  CULINARY    HERBS 

With  the  exception  of  these  few  species,  the  loss  of 
which  seems  not  to  be  serious,  this  absence  of  improve- 
ment is  to  be  regretted,  because  with  improved 
quality  would  come  increased  consumption  and 
consequent  beneficial  results  in  the  appetizing  flavor 
of  the  foods  to  which  herbs  are  added.  But  greatly 
improved  varieties  of  most  species  can  hardly  be 
expected  until  a  just  appreciation  has  been  awak- 
ened in  individual  cultivators,  who,  probably  in  a 
majority  of  cases,  will  be  lovers  of  plants  rather  than 
men  who  earn  their  living  by  market  gardening. 

Until  the  public  better  appreciates  the  culinary 
herbs  there  will  be  a  comparatively  small  commer- 
cial demand;  until  the  demand  is  sufficient  to  make 
growing  herbs  profitable  upon  an  extensive  scale, 
market  gardeners  will  devote  their  land  to  crops  which 
are  sure  to  pay  well ;  hence  the  opportunity  to  grow 
herbs  as  an  adjunct  to  gardening  is  the  most  likely 
way  that  they  can  be  made  profitable.  And  yet 
there  is  still  another;  namely,  growing  them  for 
sale  in  the  various  prepared  forms  and  selling  them 
in  glass  or  tin  receptacles  in  the  neighborhood  or 
by  advertising  in  the  household  magazines.  There 
surely  is  a  market,  and  a  profitable  one  if  rightly 
managed.  And  with  right  management  and  profit 
is  to  come  desire  to  have  improved  varieties.  Such 
varieties  can  be  developed  at  least  as  readily  as  the 
wonderful  modern  chrysanthemum  has  been  devel- 
oped from  an  insignificant  little  wild  flower  not  half 
as  interesting  or  promising  originally  as  our  com- 
mon oxeye  daisy,  a  well-known  field  weed. 

Not  the  least  object  of  this  volume  is,  therefore, 


CULINARY    HERBS  1 5 

to  arouse  just  appreciation  of  the  opportunities 
awaiting  the  herb  grower.  Besides  the  very  large 
and  increasing  number  of  people  who  take  pleasure 
in  the  growing  of  attractive  flowering  and  foliage 
plants,  fine  vegetables  and  choice  fruits,  there  are 
many  who  would  find  positive  delight  in  the  breed- 
ing of  plants  for  improvement — the  origination  of 
new  varieties — and  who  would  devote  much  of  their 
leisure  time  to  this  work — make  it  a  hobby — did 
they  know  the  simple  underlying  principles.  For  their 
benefit,  therefore,  the  following  paragraphs  are  given. 

PRODUCTION  OF  NEW  VARIETIES 

Besides  the  gratification  that  always  accompanies 
the  growing  of  plants,  there  is  in  plant  breeding  the 
promise  that  the  progeny  will  in  some  way  be  better 
than  the  parent,  and  there  is  the  certainty  that  when 
a  stable  variety  of  undoubted  merit  has  been  pro- 
duced it  can  be  sold  to  an  enterprising  seedsman  for 
general  distribution.  In  this  way  the  amateur  may 
become  a  public  benefactor,  reap  the  just  reward  of 
his  labors  and  keep  his  memory  green ! 

The  production  of  new  varieties  of  plants  is  a 
much  simpler  process  than  is  commonly  supposed. 
It  consists  far  more  in  selecting  and  propagating  the 
best  specimens  than  in  any  so-called  "breeding." 
With  the  majority  of  the  herbs  this  is  the  most  likely 
direction  in  which  to  seek  success. 

Suppose  we  have  sown  a  packet  of  parsley 
seed  and  we  have  five  thousand  seedlings.  Among 
these  a  lot  will  be  so  weak  that  we  will  naturally 


i6 


CULINARY    HERBS 


pass  them  by  when  we  are  choosing  plantlets  to  put 
in  our  garden  beds.  Here  is  the  first  and  simplest 
kind  of  selection.  By  this  means,  and  by  not  having 
space  for  a  great  number  of  plants  in  the  garden,  we 
probably  get  rid  of  80  per  cent  of  the  seedlings — 
almost  surely  the  least  desirable  ones. 

Suppose  we  have  transplanted  1,000  seedlings 
where  they  are  to  grow  and  produce  leaves  for  sale 
or  home  use.    Among  these,  provided  the  seed  has 

been  good  and  true, 
at  least  90  per  cent 
will  be  about  alike  in 
appearance,  produc- 
tivity and  otherwise. 
The  remaining  plants 
may  show  variations 
so  striking  as  to  at- 
tract attention.  Some 
may  be  tall  and  scraggly,  some  may  be  small  and 
puny;  others  may  be  light  green,  still  others  dark 
green;  and  so  on.  But  there  may  be  one  or  two 
plants  that  stand  out  conspicuously  as  the  best  of 
the  whole  lot.  These  are  the  ones  to  mark  with  a 
stake  so  they  will  not  be  molested  when  the  crop  is 
being  gathered  and  so  they  will  attain  their  fullest 
development. 

These  best  plants,  and  only  these,  should  then  be 
chosen  as  the  seed  bearers.  No  others  should  be 
allowed  even  to  produce  flowers.  When  the  seed 
has  ripened,  that  from  each  plant  should  be  kept 
separate  during  the  curing  process  described  else- 
where.   And  when  spring  comes  again,  each  lot  of 


Lath  Screen   for  Shading  Beds 


CULINARY    HERBS  1 7 

seed  should  be  sown  by  itself.  When  the  seedlings 
are  transplanted,  they  should  be  kept  apart  and 
labeled  No.  i,  No.  2,  No.  3,  etc.,  so  the  progeny  of 
each  parent  plant  can  be  known  and  its  history  kept. 

The  process  of  selecting  the  seedlings  the  sec- 
ond year  is  the  same  as  in  the  first;  the  best  are 
given  preference,  when  being  transplanted.  In  the 
beds  all  sorts  of  variations  even  more  pronounced 
than  the  first  year  may  be  expected.  The  effort  with 
the  seedlings  derived  from  each  parent  plant  should 
be  to  find  the  plants  that  most  closely  resemble 
their  own  parents,  and  to  manage  these  just  as  the 
parents  were  managed.  No  other  should  be  allowed 
to  flower. 

This  process  is  to  be  continued  from  year  to  year. 
If  the  selection  is  carefully  made,  the  grower  will 
soon  rejoice,  because  he  will  observe  a  larger  and 
a  larger  number  of  plants  approaching  the  type  of 
plant  he  has  been  selecting  for.  In  time  practically 
the  whole  plantation  will  be  coming  "true  to  type," 
and  he  will  have  developed  a  new  variety.  If  his 
ideal  is  such  as  to  appeal  to  the  practical  man — the 
man  who  grows  parsley  for  money — and  if  the 
variety  is  superior  to  varieties  already  grown,  the 
originator  will  have  no  difficulty  in  disposing  of  his 
stock  of  seed  and  plants,  if  he  so  desires,  to  a  seeds- 
man, who  will  gladly  pay  a  round  price  in  order  to 
have  exclusive  control  of  the  "new  creation."  Or  he 
may  contract  with  a  seedsman  to  grow  seed  of  the 
new  variety  for  sale  to  the  trade. 

It  may  be  said,  further,  that  new  varieties  may  be 
produced  by  placing  the  pollen  from  the  flowers  of 


18 


CULINARY    HERBS  I9 

one  plant  upon  the  pistils  in  the  flowers  of  another 
and  then  covering  the  plant  with  fine  gauze  to  keep 
insects  out.  With  the  herbs,  however,  this  method 
seems  hardly  worth  while,  because  the  flowers  are 
as  a  rule  very  small  and  the  work  necessarily  finicky, 
and  because  there  are  already  so  few  varieties  of 
most  species  that  the  operation  may  be  left  to  the 
activities  of  insects.  It  is  for  this  reason,  however, 
that  none  but  the  choicest  plants  should  be  allowed 
to  bloom,  so  none  but  desirable  pollen  may  reach 
and  fertilize  the  flowers  of  the  plants  to  be  used  as 
seed  producers. 

STATUS  AND  USES 

Some  readers  of  a  statistical  turn  of  mind  may  be 
disappointed  to  learn  that  figures  as  to  the  value  of 
the  annual  crops  of  individual  herbs,  the  acreage  de- 
voted to  each,  the  average  cost,  yield  and  profit  an 
acre,  etc.,  are  not  obtainable  and  that  the  only  way 
of  determining  the  approximate  standing  of  the  vari- 
ous species  is  the  apparent  demand  for  each  in  the 
large  markets  and  stores. 

Unquestionably  the  greatest  call  is  for  parsley, 
which  is  used  in  restaurants  and  hotels  more  exten- 
sively as  a  garnish  than  any  other  herb.  In  this 
capacity  it  ranks  about  equal  with  watercress  and 
lettuce,  which  both  find  their  chief  uses  as  salads. 
As  a  flavoring  agent  it  is  probably  less  used  than 
sage,  but  more  than  any  of  the  other  herbs.  It  is 
chiefly  employed  in  dressings  with  mild  meats  such 
as  chicken,  turkey,  venison,  veal,  with  baked  fish ; 
and  for  soups,  stews,   and   sauces,   especially   those 


20 


CULINARY    HERBS 


used  with  boiled  meats,  fish  and  fricassees  of  the 
meats  mentioned.  Thus  it  has  a  wider  application 
than  any  other  of  the  culinary  herbs. 

Sage,  which  is  a  strongly  flavored  plant,  is  used 
chiefly  with  such  fat  meats  as  pork,  goose,  duck,  and 
various  kinds  of  game.  Large  quantities  are  mixed 
with  sausage  meat  and,  in  some  countries,  with  cer- 
tain kinds  of  cheese.  Throughout  the  United  States 
it  is  probably  the  most  frequently  called  into  requi- 


Garden   Hoes   of  Various   Styles 


sition  of  all  herbs,  probably  outranking  any  two  of 
the  others,  with  the  exception  of  parsley. 

Thyme  and  savory  stand  about  equal,  and  are 
chiefly  used  like  parsley,  though  both,  especially  the 
former,  are  used  in  certain  kinds  of  sausage.  Mar- 
joram, which  is  similarly  employed,  comes  next,  then 
follow  balm,  fennel,  and  basil.  These  milder  herbs 
are  often  mixed  for  much  the  same  reason  that  cer- 
tain simple  perfumes  are  blended — to  produce  a  new 
odor — combinations  of  herbs  resulting  in  a  new 
compound  flavor.  Such  compounds  are  utilized  in 
the  same  way  that  the  elementary  herbs  are. 


CULINARY    HERBS  21 

In  classes  by  themselves  are  tarragon  and  spear- 
mint, the  former  of  which  is  chiefly  used  as  a  decoc- 
tion in  the  flavoring  of  fish  sauces,  and  the  latter  as 
the  universal  dressing  with  spring  lamb.  Mint  has 
also  a  more  convivial  use,  but  this  seems  more  the 
province  of  the  W.  C.  T.  U.  than  of  this  book  to  dis- 
cuss. 

Dill  is  probably  the  most  important  of  the  herbs 
whose  seeds,  rather  than  their  leaves,  are  used  in 
flavoring  food  other  than  confectionery.  It  plays  its 
chief  role  in  the  pickle  barrel.  Immense  quantities 
of  cucumber  pickles  flavored  principally  with  dill 
are  used  in  the  restaurants  of  the  larger  cities  and 
also  by  families,  the  foreign-born  citizens  and  their 
descendants  being  the  chief  consumers.  The  de- 
mand for  these  pickles  is  met  by  the  leading  pickle 
manufacturers  who  prepare  special  brands,  gener- 
ally according  to  German  recipes,  and  sell  them  to 
the  delicatessen  and  the  grocery  stores.  If  they 
were  to  rely  upon  me  for  business,  they  would  soon 
go  bankrupt.  To  my  palate  the  dill  pickle  appeals 
as  almost  the  acme  of  disagreeableness. 

NOTABLE  INSTANCE  OF  USES 

The  flavors  of  the  various  herbs  cover  a  wide 
range,  commencing  with  fennel  and  ending  with 
sage,  and  are  capable  of  wide  application.  In  one 
case  which  came  under  my  observation,  the  cook 
made  a  celery-flavored  stew  of  some  meat  scraps. 
Not  being  wholly  consumed,  the  surviving  debris 
appeared  a  day  or  two  later,  in  company  with  other 


22 


CULINARY    HERBS 


odds  and  ends,  as  the  chief  actor  in  a  meat  pie  flav- 
ored with  parsley.  Alas,  a  left-over  again!  "Never 
mind,"  mused  the  cook ;  and  no  one  who  partook  of 
the  succeeding  stew  discovered  the  lurking  parsley 
and  its  overpowered  progenitor,  the  celery,  under 
the  effectual  disguise  of  summer  savory.  By  an  un- 
foreseen circumstance  the  fragments  remaining 
from  this  last  stew  did  not  continue  the  cycle  and 
disappear  in  another  pie.  Had  this  been  their  fate, 
however,  their  presence  could  have  been  completely 
obscured  by  sage.     This  problem  in  perpetual  pro- 


PACKED     BV 

y^       NEW   YORK 
ft 


Dried  Herbs  in   Paper  and  Tin 


gression  or  culinary  homeopathy  can  be  practiced  in 
any  kitchen.     But  hush,  tell   it  not  in  the  dining- 


room! 


METHODS  OF  CURING 


Culinary  herbs  may  be  divided  into  three  groups ; 
those  whose  foliage  furnishes  the  flavor,  those  whose 


CULINARY    HERBS  23 

seed  is  used  and  those  few  whose  roots  are  pre- 
pared. In  the  kitchen,  foliage  herbs  are  employed 
either  green  or  as  decoctions  or  dried,  each  way 
with  its  special  advocates,  advantages  and  applica- 
tions. 

Green  herbs,  if  freshly  and  properly  gathered,  are 
richest  in  flavoring  substances  and  when  added  to 
sauces,  fricassees,  stews,  etc.,  reveal  their  freshness 
by  their  particles  as  well  as  by  their  decidedly  finer 
flavor.  In  salads  they  almost  entirely  supplant  both 
the  dried  and  the  decocted  herbs,  since  their  fresh 
colors  are  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  their  crispness 
to  the  palate ;  whereas  the  specks  of  the  dried  herbs 
would  be  objectionable,  and  both  these  and  the  de- 
coctions impart  a  somewhat  inferior  flavor  to  such 
dishes.  Since  herbs  cannot,  however,  always  be 
obtained  throughout  the  year,  unless  they  are  grown 
in  window  boxes,  they  are  infused  or  dried.  Both 
infusing  and  drying  are  similar  processes  in  them- 
selves, but  for  best  results  they  are  dependent  upon 
the  observance  of  a  few  simple  rules. 

No  matter  in  what  condition  or  for  what  purpose 
they  are  to  be  used  the  flavors  of  foliage  herbs  are  in- 
variably best  in  well-developed  leaves  and  shoots 
still  in  full  vigor  of  growth.  With  respect  to  the 
plant  as  a  whole,  these  flavors  are  most  abundant 
and  pleasant  just  before  the  flowers  appear.  And 
since  they  are  generally  due  to  essential  oils,  which 
are  quickly  dissipated  by  heat,  they  are  more  abun- 
dant in  the  morning  than  after  the  sun  has  reached 
the  zenith.  As  a  general  rule,  therefore,  best  results 
with  foliage  herbs,  especially  those  to  be  used  for 


24 


CULINARY   HERBS 


drying  and  infusing,  may  be  secured  when  the  plants 
seem  ready  to  flower,  the  harvest  being  made  as 
soon  as  the  dew  has  dried  and  before  the  day  has 
become  very  warm.  The  leaves  of  parsley,  however, 
may  be  gathered  as  soon  as  they  attain  that  deep 
green  characteristic  of  the  mature  leaf;  and  since 
the  leaves  are  produced  continuously  for  many 
weeks,  the  mature  ones  may  be  removed  every  week 
or  so,  a  process  which  encourages  the  further  pro- 
duction of  foliage  and  postpones  the 
appearance  of  the  flowering  stem. 
To  make  good  infusions  the 
freshly  gathered,  clean  foliage 
should  be  liberally  packed  in  stop- 
pered Jars,  covered  with  the  choicest 
vinegar,  and  the  jars  kept  closed.  In 
a  week  or  two  the  fluid  will  be  ready 
for  use,  but  in  using  it,  trials  must 
be  made  to  ascertain  its  strength 
and  the  quantity  necessary  to  use. 
Usually  only  the  clear  liquid  is  em- 
ployed; sometimes,  however,  as  with  mint,  the 
leaves  are  very  finely  minced  before  being  bottled 
and  both  liquid  and  particles  employed. 

Tarragon,  mint  and  the  seed  herbs,  such  as  dill, 
are  perhaps  more  often  used  in  ordinary  cookery  as 
infusions  than  otherwise.  An  objection  to  decoc- 
tions is  that  the  flavor  of  vinegar  is  not  always 
desired  in  a  culinary  preparation,  and  neither  is  that 
of  alcohol  or  wine,  which  are  sometimes  used  in  the 
same  way  as  vinegar. 


Herb  Solution 
Bottle 


rtOHXn  LIBRARY 
tf   r    fsfatt  CoUtMe 


CULINARY   HERBS  25 

DRYING  AND  STORING 

When  only  a  small  quantity  of  an  herb  is  to  be 
dried,  the  old  plan  of  hanging  loose  bunches  from 
the  ceiling  of  a  warm,  dry  attic  or  a  kitchen  will 
answer.  Better,  perhaps,  is  the  use  of  trays  covered 
with  clean,  stout  manilla  paper  upon  which  thin 
layers  of  the  leaves  are  spread.  These  are  placed 
either  in  hot  sunlight  or  in  the  warm  kitchen  where 
warm  air  circulates  freely.  They  must  be  turned 
once  a  day  until  all  the  moisture  has  been  evaporated 
from  the  leaves  and  the  softer,  more  delicate  parts 
have  become  crisp.  Then  they  may  be  crunched 
and  crumbled  between  the  hands,  the  stalks  and  the 
hard  parts  rejected  and  the  powder  placed  in  air- 
tight glass  or  earthenware  jars  or  metal  cans,  and 
stored  in  a  cool  place.  If  there  be  the  slightest  trace 
of  moisture  in  the  powder,  it  should  be  still  further 
dried  to  insure  against  mold.  Prior  to  any  drying 
process  the  cut  leaves  and  stems  should  be  thor- 
oughly washed,  to  get  rid  of  any  trace  of  dirt. 
Before  being  dried  as  noted  above,  the  water  should 
all  be  allowed  to  evaporate.  Evaporation  may  be 
hastened  by  exposing  the  herbs  to  a  breeze  in  a 
shallow,  loose  basket,  a  wire  tray  or  upon  a  table. 
While  damp  there  is  little  danger  of  their  being 
blown  away.  As  they  dry,  however,  the  current  of 
air  should  be  more  gentle. 

The  practice  of  storing  powdered  herbs  in  paper 
or  pasteboard  packages  is  bad,  since  the  delicate  oils 
readily  diffuse  through  the  paper  and  sooner  or  later 
the  material  becomes  as  valueless  for  flavoring  pur- 


20  CULINARY    HERBS 

poses  as  ordinary  hay  or  straw.  This  loss  of  flavor 
is  particularly  noticeable  with  sage,  which  is  one  of 
the  easiest  herbs  to  spoil  by  bad  management.  Even 
when  kept  in  air-tight  glass  or  tin  receptacles,  as 
recommended,  it  generally  becomes  useless  before 
the  end  of  two  years. 

When  large  quantities  of  herbs  are  to  l)e  cured  a 
fruit  evaporator  may  be  employed,  the  herbs  being 


Paper  Sacks  of  Dried   Herbs   for  Home  Use 


spread  thinly  upon  wire-bottomed  trays  so  that  an 
ample  current  of  air  may  pass  through  them.  Care 
must  be  taken  to  keep  the  temperature  inside  the 
machine  below  120  degrees.  The  greatest  efficiency 
can  be  secured  by  placing  the  trays  of  most  recently 
gathered  herbs  at  the  top,  the  partially  dried  ones 
being  lowered  to  positions  nearer  the  source  of  heat. 
In  this  way  the  fresh,  dry,  warm  air  comes  in  contact 
first  with  the  herbs  most  nearly  dried,  removes  the 


CULINARY    HERBS  2/ 

last  vestige  of  moisture  from  them  and  after  passing- 
through  the  intervening  trays  comes  to  those  most 
recently  gathered. 

Unless  the  evaporator  be  fitted  with  some  mechan- 
ism which  will  permit  all  the  trays  to  be  lowered 
simultaneously.,  the  work  of  changing  the  trays  may 
seem  too  irksome  to  be  warranted.     But  where  no 
changes  of  trays  are  made,  greater  care  must  be 
given  to  the  bottom  trays  because  they  will  dry  out 
faster  than  those  at  the  top.     Indeed  in  such  cases, 
after  the  apparatus  is  full,  it  becomes  almost  essen- 
tial to  move  the  trays  lower,  be- 
cause if  fresh  green  herbs,  particu- 
larly   those    which    are    somewhat 
wet,  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
series,    the    air    will     become    so 
charged  with  moisture  from  them     "'"'^  sctlfie^  '"'^ 
that  the  upper   layers   may   for  a 
time  actually  absorb  this  moisture  and  thus  take 
longer  to  dry.     Besides  this,  they  will  surely  lose 
some  of  their  flavoring  ingredients — the  very  things 
which  it  is  desired  to  save. 

No  eiTort  should  be  made  to  hasten  the  drying- 
process  by  increasing  the  temperature,  since  this  is 
likely  to  result  as  just  mentioned.  A  personal  ex- 
perience may  teach  the  reader  a  lesson.  I  once  had 
a  large  amount  of  parsley  to  cure  and  thought  to 
expedite  matters  by  using  the  oven  of  a  gas  stove. 
Suffice  it  to  tell  that  the  whole  quantity  was  ruined, 
not  a  pinch  was  saved.  In  spite  of  the  closest  regu- 
lation the  heat  grew  too  great  and  the  flavor  was 
literally  cooked  out  of  the  leaves.     The  delicate  oil 


28  CULINARY    HERBS 

saturated  everything  in  the  house,  and  for  a  week 
or  more  the  whole  place  smelled  as  if  chicken  fricas- 
see was  being  made  upon  a  wholesale  plan. 

Except  as  garnishes,  herbs  are  probably  more 
frequently  used  in  a  dry  state  than  in  all  other  ways 
put  together.  Perhaps  this  is  because  the  method  of 
preparing  them  seems  simpler  than  that  of  infusion, 
because  large  quantities  may  be  kept  in  small  spaces, 
and  because  they  can  be  used  for  every  purpose  that 
the  fresh  plants  or  the  decoctions  can  be  employed. 
In  general,  however,  they  are  called  into  requisition 
principally  in  dressings,  soups,  stews  and  sauces  in 
which  their  particles  are  not  considered  objection- 
able. If  clear  sauces  or  soups  are  desired,  the  dried 
herbs  may  still  be  used  to  impart  the  flavor,  their 
particles  being  removed  by  straining. 

The  method  of  preparing  dill,  anise,  caraway  and 
other  herbs  whose  seed  is  used,  differs  from  that 
employed  with  the  foliage  herbs  mainly  in  the  ripe- 
ness of  the  plants.  These  must  be  gathered  as  soon 
as  they  show  signs  of  maturity  but  before  the  seeds 
are  ready  to  drop  from  them.  In  all  this  work  espe- 
cial care  must  be  paid  to  the  details  of  cleaning.  For 
a  pleasing  appearance  the  seed  heads  must  be  gath- 
ered before  they  become  the  least  bit  weather- 
beaten.  This  is  as  essential  as  to  have  the  seed  ripe. 
Next,  the  seed  must  be  perfectly  clean,  free  from 
chaff,  bits  of  broken  stems  and  other  debris.  Much 
depends  upon  the  manner  of  handling  as  well  as 
upon  harvesting.  Care  must  be  taken  in  threshing 
to  avoid  bruising  the  seeds,  particularly  the  oily 
ones,  by  pounding  too  hard  or  by  tramping  upon 


CULINARY    HERBS  29 

them.  Threshing  should  never  be  done  in  damp 
weather;  always  when  the  air  is  very  dry. 

In  clear  weather  after  the  dew  has  disappeared 
the  approximately  ripe  plants  or  seed  heads  must  be 
harvested  and  spread  thinly — never  packed  firmly — 
upon  stout  cloth  such  as  ticking,  sailcloth,  or  fac- 
tory cotton.  A  warm,  open  shed  where  the  air  cir- 
culates freely  is  an  admirable  place,  since  the  natural 
temperature  of  the  air  is  sufficient  in  the  case  of 
seeds  to  bring  about  good  results.  Usually  in  less 
than  a  week  the  tops  will  have  become  dry  enough 
to  be  beaten  out  with  a  light  flail  or  a  rod.  In  this 
operation  great  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  bruising 
or  otherwise  injuring  the  seed.  The  beating  should 
therefore  be  done  in  a  sheet  spread  upon  a  lawn 
or  at  least  upon  short  grass.  The  force  of  the  blows 
will  thus  be  lessened  and  bruising  avoided. 

For  cleaning  herb  seeds  sieves  in  all  sizes  from 
No.  2  to  No.  40  are  needed.  The  sizes  represent 
various  finenesses  of  mesh.  All  above  No.  8  should 
be  of  brass  wire,  because  brass  is  considerably  more 
durable  and  less  likely  to  rust  than  iron.  The  cloths 
upon  which  the  herbs  are  spread  should  be  as  large 
as  the  floor  upon  which  the  threshing  is  to  be  done 
except  when  the  floor  is  without  cracks,  but  it  is 
more  convenient  to  use  cloths  always,  because  they 
facilitate  handling  and  temporary  storing.  Light 
cotton  duck  is  perhaps  best,  but  the  weave  must  be 
close.    A  convenient  size  is  lo  x  lo  feet. 

After  the  stalks  have  been  removed  the  seed 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  for  several  days  longer 
in  a  very  thin  layer — the  thinner  the  better — and 


30  CULINARY    HERBS 

turnea  every  day  to  remove  the  last  vestige  of  mois- 
ture. It  will  be  even  better  still  to  have  the  drying 
sheet  suspended  so  air  may  circulate  below  as  well 
as  above  the  seed.  Not  less  than  a  week  for  the 
smallest  seeds  and  double  that  time  for  the  larger 
ones  is  necessary.  To  avoid  loss  or  injury  it  is  im- 
perative that  the  seed  be  dry  before  it  is  put  in  the 
storage  packages.  Of  course,  if  infusions  are  to  be 
made  all  this  is  unnecessary;  the  seed  may  be  put  in 
the  liquor  as  soon  as  the  broken  stems,  etc.,  are 
removed  subsequent  to  threshing. 

HERBS  AS  GARNISHES 

As  garnishes  several  of  the  culinary  herbs  are 
especially  valuable.  This  is  particularly  true  of 
parsley,  which  is  probably  more  widely  used  than 
any  other  plant,  its  only  close  rivals  being  water- 
cress and  lettuce,  which,  however,  are  generally 
inferior  to  it  in  delicacy  of  tint  and  form  of  foliage, 
the  two  cardinal  virtues  of  a  garnish. 

Parsley  varieties  belong  to  three  principal  groups, 
based  upon  the  form  of  the  foliage:  (i)  Plain  varie- 
ties, in  which  the  leaves  are  nearly  as  they  are  in 
nature ;  (2)  moss-curled  varieties  in  which  they  are 
curiously  and  pleasingly  contorted ;  and  (3)  fern 
leaved,  in  which  the  foliage  is  not  curled,  but  much 
divided  into  threadlike  parts. 

The  moss-curled  varieties  are  far  more  popular 
than  the  other  two  groups  put  together  and  are  the 
only  ones  used  especially  as  garnishes  with  meat 
dishes  in  the  hotels  and  restaurants  of  the  large 


CULINARY    HERBS  3 1 

cities.  The  plain-leaved  sorts  cannot  be  compared 
in  any  way  except  in  flavor  with  the  varieties  of  the 
other  groups.  But  the  fern-leaved  kinds,  which 
unfortunately  have  not  become  commercially  well 
known,  surpass  even  the  finest  varieties  of  the  moss- 
curled  group,  not  only  in  their  exquisite  and  delicate 
form,  but  in  their  remarkably  rich,  dark-green  color- 
ing and  blending  of  light  and  shade.  But  the  mere 
fact  that  these  varieties  are  not  known  in  the  cities 
should  not  preclude  their  popularity  in  suburban  and 
town  gardens  and  in  the  country,  where  every 
householder  is  monarch  of  his  own  soil  and  can  sat- 
isfy very  man}^  aesthetic  and  gustatory  desires  with- 
out reference  to  market  dictum,  that  bane  alike  of 
the  market  gardener  and  his  customer. 

Several  other  herbs — tansy,  savory,  thyme,  mar- 
joram, basil,  and  balm — make  pretty  garnishes,  but 
since  they  are  not  usually  considered  so  pleasant  to 
nibble  at,  they  are  rarely  used.  The  pleasing  eflfect 
of  any  garnish  may  be  heightened  by  adding  here 
and  there  a  few  herb  flowers  such  as  thyme  or 
savory.  Other  flowers  may  be  used  in  the  same 
way ;  for  instance,  nasturtium. 

There  is  no  reason  why  herbs  so  used  shoula  not 
be  employed  several  times  over,  and  afterwards  dried 
or  bottled  in  vinegar  if  they  be  free  from  gravy,  oils, 
fats,  etc.,  and  if  in  sufficient  quantity  to  make  such 
a  use  worth  while.  Other  pretty  garnishes  which 
are  easily  obtained  are  corn  salad,  peppergrass, 
mustard,  fennel,  and  young  leaves  of  carrot.  But 
surpassing  all  these  in  pleasing  and  novel  effects  are 
the  curled,  pink,  red  and  white-leaved  varieties  of 


32 


CULINARY    HERBS 


chicory  and  nasturtium  flowers  alone  or  resting 
upon  parsley  or  other  delicate  foliage.  So  much  by 
way  of  digression. 

PROPAGATION 

SEEDS 

Most  herbs  may  be  readily  propagated  by  means 
of  seeds.  Some,  however,  such  as  tarragon,  which 
does  not  produce  seed,  and  several  other  perennial 
kinds,  are  propagated  by  division,  layers,  or  cuttings. 


Flat  of  Seedlings  Ready  to  Be  Transplanted 

In  general,  propagation  by  means  of  seed  is  consid- 
ered most  satisfactory.  Since  the  seeds  in  many  in- 
stances are  small  or  are  slow  to  germinate,  they  are 
usually  sown  in  shallow  boxes  or  seed  pans.  When 
the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  be  handled  they 
are  transplanted  to  small  pots  or  somewhat  deeper 
flats  or  boxes,  a  couple  of  inches  being  allowed 
between  the  plants.    When  conditions  are  favorable 


CULINARY    HERBS  33 

in  the  garden;  tnat  is,  when  the  soil  is  moist  and 
warm  and  the  season  has  become  settled,  the  plant- 
lets  may  be  removed  to  permanent  quarters. 

If  the  seed  be  sown  out  of  doors,  it  is  a  good  prac- 
tice to  sow  a  few  radish  seeds  in  the  same  row  with 
the  herb  seeds,  particularly  if  these  latter  take  a  long 
time  to  germinate  or  are  very  small,  as  marjoram, 
savory  and  thyme.  The  variety  of  radish  chosen 
should  be  a  turnip-rooted  sort  of  exceedingly  rapid 
growth,  and  with  few  and  small  leaves.  The  rad- 
ishes serve  to  mark  the  rows  and  thus  enable  culti- 
vation to  commence  much  earlier  than  if  the  herbs 
were  sown  alone.  They  should  be  pulled  early — 
the  earlier  the  better  after  the  herb  plantlets  appear. 
Never  should  the  radishes  be  allowed  to  crowd  the 
herbs. 

By  the  narration  of  a  little  mcident,  I  may  illus- 
trate the  necessity  of  sowing  these  radish  seeds 
thinly.  Having  explained  to  some  juvenile  garden- 
ers that  the  radish  seeds  should  be  dropped  so  far 
apart  among  the  other  seeds  that  they  would  look 
lonesome  in  the  bottoms  of  the  rows — not  more 
than  six  seeds  to  the  foot — and  having  illustrated 
my  meaning  by  sowing  a  row  myself,  I  let  each  one 
take  his  turn  at  sowing.  While  I  watched  them  all 
went  well.  But,  alas,  for  precept  and  example!  To 
judge  by  the  general  result  after  the  plants  were  up, 
the  seedsman  might  justifiably  have  guaranteed  the 
seed  to  germinate  about  500  per  cent,  because  each 
boy  declared  that  he  sowed  his  rows  thinly.  Never- 
theless, there  was  a  stand  of  radishes  that  would 
have  gladdened  the  heart  of  a  lawn  maker!     The 


34 


CULINARY    HERBS 


rows  looked  like  regiments  drawn  up  in  close  order 
and  not,  as  was  desired,  merely  lines  of  scattered 
skirmishers.  In  many  places  there  were  more  than 
lOO  to  the  foot !  Fortunately  the  variety  was  a 
quick-maturing  kind  and  the  crop,  for  such  it  be- 
came, was  harvested  before  any  damage  was  done 
the  slow-appearing  seedlings,  whose  positions  the 
radishes  were  intended  to  indicate. 

CUTTINGS 

No  herbs  are  so  easy  to  propagate  by  means  of 
cuttings  as  spearmint,  peppermint,  and  their  rela- 
tives which  have  underground  stems.  Every  joint 
of  these  stems  will  produce  a  new  plant  if  placed 
in  somewhat  moist  soil.  Often,  however,  this  abil- 
ity is  a  disadvantage,  because  the  plants  are  prone 

to  spread  and  become 
a  nuisance  unless 
watched.  Hence  such 
plants  should  be 
placed  where  they  will 
not  have  their  roots 
cut  by  tools  used  close 
to  them.  When  they 
seem  to  be  extending,  their  borders  should  be 
trimmed  with  a  sharp  spade  pushed  vertically  full 
depth  into  the  soil  and  all  the  earth  beyond  the 
clump  thus  restricted  should  be  shaken  out  with  a 
garden  fork  and  the  cut  pieces  of  mint  removed. 
Further,  the  forked-over  ground  should  be  hoed 
every  week  during  the  remainder  of  the  season,  to 
destroy  lurking  plantlets. 


Glass-Covered  Propagating  Box 


CULINARY    HERBS  35 

The  other  perennial  and  biennial  herbs  may  be 
readily  propagated  by  means  of  stem  cuttings  or 
"slips,"  which  are  generally  as  easy  to  manage  as 
verbenas,  geraniums  and  other  ''house  plants."  The 
cuttings  may  be  made  of  either  fully  ripened  wood 
of  the  preceding  or  the  current  season,  or  they  may 
be  of  firm,  not  succulent  green  stems.  After  trim- 
ming off  all  but  a  few  of  the  upper  leaves,  which 
should  be  clipped  to  reduce  transpiration,  the  cut- 
tings— never  more  than  4  or  5  inches  long — should 
De  plunged  nearly  full  depth 
in  well-shaded,  rather  light, 
porous,  well-drained  loam, 
where  they  should  remain 
undisturbed  until  they  show 
evidences  of  growth.  Then 
they    may    be    transplanted.  ^ 

While    in    the    cutting    bed  V^^^^^^^/ 

they  must  never  be  allowed       ^,        „  ,  „  .     „  ^ 

•'  ^      ^  Flower  Pot   Propagating  Bed 

to  become  dry.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  of  greenwood  cuttings  made  during  the 
summer.  These  should  always  have  the  coolest, 
shadiest  corner  In  the  garden.  The  cuttings  taken 
in  the  spring  should  be  set  in  the  garden  as  soon 
as  rooted ;  but  the  summer  cuttings,  especially  if 
taken  late,  should  generally  be  left  in  their  beds  un- 
til the  following  spring.  They  may,  however,  b£ 
removed  for  winter  use  to  window  boxes  or  the 
greenhouse  benches. 

Often  the  plants  grown  in  window  boxes  may 
supply  the  early  cuttings,  which  may  be  rooted  in 
the  house.    Where  a  greenhouse  is  available,  a  few 


36  CULINARY    HERBS 

plants  may  be  transplanted  in  autumn  either  from 
the  garden  or  from  the  bed  of  summer  cuttings  just 
mentioned,  kept  in  a  rather  cool  temperature  dur- 
ing the  winter  and  drawn  upon  for  cuttings  as  the 
stems  become  sufficiently  mature.  The  rooting  may 
take  place  in  a  regular  cutting  bench,  or  it  may  occur 
in  the  soil  out  of  doors,  the  plantlets  being  trans- 
planted to  pots  as  soon  as  they  have  rooted  well. 

If  a  large  number  of  plants  is  desired,  a  hotbed 
may  be  called  into  requisition  in  early  spring  and  the 
plants  hardened  off  in  cold  frames  as  the  season  ad- 
vances. Hardening  off  is  essential  with  all  plants 
grown  under  glass  for  outdoor  planting,  because 
unless  the  plants  be  inured  to  outside  temperatures 
before  being  placed  in  the  open  ground,  they  will 
probably  suffer  a  check,  if  they  do  not  succumb 
wholly  to  the  unaccustomed  conditions.  If  well 
managed  they  should  be  injured  not  at  all. 

LAYERS  ' 

Several  of  the  perennial  herbs,  such  as  sage,  sav- 
ory, and  thyme,  may  be  easily  propagated  by  means 
of  layers,  the  stems  being  pegged  down  and  cov- 
ered lightly  with  earth.  If  the  moisture  and  the 
temperature  be  favorable,  roots  should  be  formed  in 
three  or  four  weeks  and  the  stem  separated  from  the 
parent  and  planted.  Often  there  may  be  several 
branches  upon  the  stem,  and  each  of  these  may  be 
used  as  a  new  plantlet  provided  it  has  some  roots 
or  a  rooted  part  of  the  main  stem  attached  to  it.  By 
this  method  I  have  obtained  nearly  100  rooted  plants 


CULINARY    HERBS  37 

from  a  single  specimen  of  Holt's  Mammoth  sage 
grown  in  a  greenhouse.  And  from  the  same  plant 
at  the  same  time  I  have  taken  more  than  lOO 
cuttings.  This  is  not  an  exceptional  feat  with  this 
variety,  the  plants  of  which  are  very  branchy  and 
often  exceed  a  yard  in  diameter. 

Layering  is  probably  the  simplest  and  most  satis- 
factory method  of  artificial  propagation  under  ordi- 
nary conditions,  since  the  stems  are  almost  sure 
to  take  root  if  undisturbed  long  enough;  and  since 
rooted  plants  can  hardly  fail  to  grow  if  properly 
transplanted.  Then,  too,  less  apparent  time  is  taken 
than  with  plants  grown  from  cuttings  and  far  less 
than  with  those  grown  from  seed.  In  other  words, 
they  generally  produce  a  crop  sooner  than  the  plants 
obtained  by  the  other  methods  set  in  operation  at 
the  same  time. 

DIVISION 

Division  of  the  clumps  of  such  herbs  as  mint  is 
often  practiced,  a  sharp  spade  or  a  lawn  edger  being 
used  to  cut  the  clump  into  pieces  about  6  inches 
square.  The  squares  are  then  placed  in  new  quar- 
ters and  packed  firmly  in  place  with  soil.  This 
method  is,  however,  the  least  satisfactory  of  all 
mentioned,  because  it  too  frequently  deprives  the 
plants  of  a  large  amount  of  roots,  thus  impairs  the 
growth,  and  during  the  first  season  or  two  may 
result  in  unsymmetrical  clumps.  If  done  in  early 
spring  before  growth  starts,  least  damage  is  done 
to  the  plants. 


CULINARY    HERBS  39 

Artificial  methods  of  propagation,  especially 
those  of  cuttage  and  layerage,  have  the  further  ad- 
vantage over  propagation  by  means  of  seeds,  in  the 
perpetuation  of  desired  characters  of  individual 
plants,  one  or  more  of  w^hich  may  appear  in  any 
plantation.  These,  particularly  if  more  productive 
than  the  others,  should  alv^ays  be  utilized  as  stock, 
not  merely  because  their  progeny  artificially  ob- 
tained are  likely  to  retain  the  character  and  thus 
probably  increase  the  yield  of  the  plantation,  but 
principally  because  they  may  form  the  nucleus  of  a 
choice  strain. 

Except  in  the  respects  mentioned,  these  methods 
of  propagation  are  not  notably  superior  to  propaga- 


•     //br 


LA    L  t   L   L  i-  L.  L.  L 
J    L-  L-  L-  L-  L   L-  L 

Marker  for  Hotbeds   and  Cold  Frames 

tion  by  means  of  good  seed,  w^hich,  by  the  w^ay,  is 
not  overabundant.  By  the  consumption  of  a  little 
extra  time,  any  desired  number  of  plants  may  be 
obtained  from  seed.  At  any  rate,  seed  is  w^hat  one 
must  start  v^ith  in  nearly  every  case. 

TRANSPLANTING 

No  more  care  is  required  in  transplanting  herbs 
than  in  resetting  other  plants,  but  unless  a  few  es- 
sentials are  realized  in  practice  the  results  are  sure 
to  be  unsatisfactory.  Of  course,  the  ideal  w^ay  is  to 
grow  the  plants  in  small  flower  pots  and  when  they 


40 


CULINARY   HERBS 


have  formed  a  ball  of  roots,  to  set  them  in  the  gar- 
den. The  next  best  is  to  grow  them  in  seed  pans 
or  flats  (shallow  boxes)  in  which  they  should  be  set 
several  inches  apart  as  soon  as  large  enough  to 
handle,  and  in  which  they  should  be  allowed  to 
grow  for  a  few  weeks,  to  form  a  mass  of  roots. 
When  these  plants  are  to  be  set  in  the  garden  they 
should  be  broken  apart  by  hand  with  as  little  loss  of 
roots  as  possible. 

But  where  neither  of  these  plans  can  be  practiced, 
as  in  the  growing  of  the  plants  in  little  nursery  beds, 


Leading  Forms  of  Trowels 


either  in  hotbeds,  cold  frames  or  in  the  garden  bor- 
der, the  plants  should  be  ''pricked  out,"  that  is, 
transplanted  while  very  small  to  a  second  nursery 
bed,  in  order  to  make  them  "stocky"  or  sturdy  and 
better  able  to  take  care  of  themselves  when  removed 
to  final  quarters.  If  this  be  done  there  should  be  no 
need  of  clipping  back  the  tops  to  balance  an  exces- 
sive loss  of  roots,  a  necessity  in  case  the  plants  are 
not  so  treated,  or  in  case  they  become  large  or  lanky 
in  the  second  bed. 

In   all   cases  it   is  best  to  transplant   when   the 


CULINARY    HERBS  4I 

ground  is  moist,  as  it  is  immediately  after  being  dug 
or  plowed.  But  this  cannot  always  be  arranged, 
neither  can  one  always  count  upon  a  shower  to 
moisten  the  soil  just  after  the  plants  have  been  set. 
If  advantage  can  be  taken  of  an  approaching  rain- 
fall, it  should  be  done,  because  this  is  the  ideal  time 
for  transplanting.  It  is  much  better  than  immedi- 
ately after,  which  is  perhaps  next  best.  Transplant- 
ing in  cloudy  weather  and  toward  evening  is  better 
than  in  sunny  weather  and  in  the  morning. 

Since  the  weather  is  prone  to  be  coy,  if  not  fickle, 
the  manual  part  of  transplanting  should  always  be 
properly  done.  The  plants  should  always  be  taken 
up  with  as  little  loss  of  roots  as  possible,  be  kept  ex- 
posed to  the  air  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  and  when 
set  in  the  ground  have  the  soil  packed  firmly  about 
their  roots,  so  firmly  that  the  operator  may  think 
it  is  almost  too  firm.  After  setting,  the  surface  soil 
should  be  made  loose,  so  as  to  act  as  a  mulch  and 
prevent  the  loss  of  moisture  from  the  packed  lower 
layer.  If  the  ground  be  dry  a  hole  may  be  made 
beside  the  plant  and  filled  with  water — LOTS  OF 
WATER — and  when  it  has  soaked  away  and  the  soil 
seems  to  be  drying,  the  surface  should  be  made 
smooth  and  loose  as  already  mentioned.  If  possible 
such  times  should  be  avoided,  because  of  the  extra 
work  entailed  and  the  probable  increased  loss  due  to 
the  unfavorable  conditions. 

IMPLEMENTS 

When  herbs  are  grown  upon  a  commercial  scale 
the  implements  needed  will  be  the  same  as  for  gen- 


42  CULINARY    HERBS 

eral  trucking — plows,  harrows,  weeder,  etc. — to  fit 
the  soil  for  the  hand  tools.  Much  labor  can  be  saved 
by  using  hand-wheel  drills,  cultivators,  weeders  and 
the  other  tools  that  have  become  so  wonderfully 
popular  within  the  past  decade  or  two.  Some  typi- 
cal kinds  are  shown  in  these  pages.  These  imple- 
ments are  indispensable  in  keeping  the  surface  soil 
loose  and  free  from  weeds,  especially  between  the 
rows  and  even  fairly  close  to  the  plants.  In  doing 
this  they  save  an  immense  amount  of  labor  and  time, 
since  they  can  be  used  with  both  hands  and  the 
muscles  of  the  body  with  less  exertion  than  the  hoe 
and  the  rake  require. 

Nothing,  however,  can  take  the  place  of  the  hand 
tools  for  getting  among  and  around  the  plants.  The 
work  that  weeding  entails  is  tiresome,  but  must  be 
done  if  success  is  to  crown  one's  efforts.  While  the 
plants  are  little  some  of  the  weeders  may  be  used. 
Those  with  a  blade  or  a  series  of  blades  are  adapted 
for  cutting  weeds  off  close  to  the  surface ;  those  with 
prongs  are  useful  only  for  making  the  soil  loose 
closer  to  the  plants  than  the  rake  dare  be  run  by  the 
average  man.  Hoes  of  various  types  are  useful 
when  the  plants  become^  somewhat  larger  or  when 
one  does  not  have  the  wheel  cultivators.  In  all 
well-regulated  gardens  there  should  be  a  little  liberal 
selection  of  the  various  wheel  and  hand  tools. 

Only  one  of  the  hand  tools  demands  any  special 
comment.  Many  gardeners  like  to  use  a  dibble  for 
transplanting.  With  this  tool  it  is  so  easy  to  make 
a  hole,  and  to  press  the  soil  against  the  plant  dropped 
in  that  hole !    But  I  believe  that  many  of  the  failures 


CULINARY    HERDS 


43 


in  transplanting  result  from  the  improper  use  of 
this  tool.  Unless  the  dibble  be  properly  operated 
the  plant  may  be  left  suspended  in  a  hole,  the  sides 
of  which  are  more  or  less  hard  and  impervious  to  the 
tiny,  tender  rootlets  that  strive  to  penetrate  them. 
From  my  own  observation  of  the  use  of  this  tool,  T 
believe  that  the  proper  place  for  the  dibble  in  the 
novice's  garden  is  in  the  attic,  side 
by  side  with  the  ''unloaded"  shot- 
gun, where  it  may  be  viewed  with 
apprehension. 

In  spite  of  this  warning,  if  anyone 
is  hardy  enough  to  use  a  dibble,  let 
him  choose  the  flat  style,  not  the 
round  one.  The  proper  way  is  to 
thrust  the  tool  straight  down,  at 
right  angles  to  the  direction  of  the 
row,  and  press  the  soil  back  and 
forth  with  the  flat  side  of  the  blade 
until  a  hole,  say  2  or  3  inches  across 
and  5  or  6  inches  deep,  has  been 
formed.  In  the  hole  the  plantlet  should  then  be  sus- 
pended so  all  the  roots  and  a  little  of  the  stem  beneath 
the  surface  will  be  covered  when  the  soil  is  replaced. 
Replacing  the  soil  is  the  important  part  of  the  opera- 
tion. The  dibble  must  now  be  thrust  in  the  soil 
again,  parallel  and  close  to  the  hole,  and  the  soil 
pushed  over  so  the  hole  will  be  completely  closed 
from  bottom  to  top.  Firming  the  soil  completes  the 
operation. 

There  is  much  less  danger  of  leaving  a  hole  with 
the  flat  than  with  the  round  dibble,  which  is  almost 


Wooden  Dibbles 


44  CULINARY   HERBS 

sure  to  leave  a  hole  beneath  the  plant.  I  remem- 
ber having  trouble  with  some  lily  plants  which  were 
not  thriving.  Supposing  that  insects  were  at  the 
roots,  I  carefully  drew  the  earth  away  from  one 
side,  and  found  that  the  earth  had  not  been  brought 
up  carefully  beneath  the  bulbs  and  that  the  roots 
were  hanging  4  or  5  inches  beneath  the  bulbs  in  the 
hole  left  by  the  dibble  and  not  properly  closed  by 
the  careless  gardener. 

I  therefore  warn  every  dibble  user  to  be  sure  to 
crowd  over  the  soil  well,  especially  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  hole.  For  my  own  part,  I  rely  upon  my  hands. 
Digits  existed  long  before  dibbles  and  they  are  much 
more  reliable.  What  matter  if  some  soil  sticks  to 
them ;  it  is  not  unresponsive  to  the  wooing  of  water! 

LOCATION  OF  HERB  GARDEN 

In  general,  the  most  favorable  exposure  for  an 
herb  garden  is  toward  the  south,  but  lacking  such 
an  exposure  should  not  deter  one  from  planting 
herbs  on  a  northern  slope  if  this  be  the  only  site 
available.  Indeed,  such  sites  often  prove  remark- 
ably good  if  other  conditions  are  propitious  and 
proper  attention  is  given  the  plants.  Similarly,  a 
smooth,  gently  sloping  surface  is  especially  desir- 
able, but  even  in  gardens  in  which  the  ground  is 
almost  billowy  the  gardener  may  often  take  advan- 
tage of  the  irregularities  by  planting  the  moisture- 
loving  plants  in  the  hollows  and  those  that  like  dry 
situations  upon  the  ridges.  Nothing  like  turning 
disadvantages  to  account! 


CULINARY    HERBS  45 

No  matter  what  the  nature  of  the  surface  and  the 
exposure,  it  is  always  advisable  to  give  the  herbs 
the  most  sunny  spots  in  the  garden,  places  where 
shade  from  trees,  barns,  other  buildings  and  from 
fences  cannot  reach  them.  This  is  suggested  be- 
cause the  development  of  the  oils,  upon  which  the 


Combination  Hand  Plow,  Harrow,  Cultivator  and  Seed  Drill 

flavoring  of  most  of  the  herbs  mainly  depends,  is 
best  in  full  sunshine  and  the  plants  have  more  sub- 
stance than  when  grown  in  the  shade. 

THE  SOIL  AND  ITS  PREPARATION 

As  to  the  kind  of  soil,  Hobson's  choice  ranks  first! 
It  is  not  necessary  to  move  into  the  next  county 
just  to  have  an  herb  garden.  This  is  one  of  the  cases 
in  which  the  gardener  may  well  make  the  best  of 
however  bad  a  bargain  he  has. 


46  CULINARY    HERBS 

But  supposing  that  a  selection  be  possible,  a  light 
sandy  loam,  underlaid  by  a  porous  subsoil  so  as  to 
be  well  drained,  should  be  given  the  preference, 
since  it  is  warmed  quickly,  easily  worked,  and  may 
be  stirred  early  in  the  season  and  after  a  rain.  Clay 
loams  are  less  desirable  upon  every  one  of  the  points 
mentioned,  and  very  sandy  soils  also.  But  if  Hob- 
son  has  one  of  these,  there  will  be  an  excellent  op- 
portunity to  cultivate  philosophy  as  well  as  herbs. 
And  the  gardener  may  be  agreeably  surprised  at  the 
results  obtained.  No  harm  in  trying!  Whatever 
the  quality  of  the  soil,  it  should  not  be  very  rich, 
because  in  such  soils  the  growth  is  apt  to  be  rank 
and  the  quantity  of  oil  small  in  proportion  to  the 
leafage. 

The  preparation  of  the  soil  should  commence 
as  soon  as  the  grass  in  the  neighborhood  is  seen  to 
be  sprouting.  Well-decayed  manure  should  be 
spread  at  the  rate  of  not  less  than  a  bushel  nor  more 
than  double  that  quantity  to  the  square  yard,  and 
as  soon  as  the  soil  is  dry  enough  to  crumble  readily 
it  should  be  dug  or  plowed  as  deeply  as  possible 
without  bringing  up  the  subsoil.  This  operation  of 
turning  over  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly  per- 
formed, the  earth  being  pulverized  as  much  as  possi- 
ble. To  accomplish  this  no  hand  tool  surpasses  the 
spading  fork. 

One  other  method  is,  however,  superior  especially 
when  practiced  upon  the  heavier  soils — fall  plowing 
or  digging.  In  practicing  this  method  care  should 
be  taken  to  plow  late  when  the  soil,  moistened  by 
autumn  rains,  will  naturally  come  up  in  big  lumps. 


CULINARY    HERBS  47 

These  lumps  must  be  left  undisturbed  during  the 
winter  for  frost  to  act  upon.  All  that  will  be  neces- 
sary in  the  spring  will  be  to  rake  or  harrow  the 
ground.     The  clods  will  crumble. 

I  once  had  occasion  to  try  this  method  upon  about 
25  acres  of  land  which  had  been  made  by  pumping 
mud  from  a  river  bottom  upon  a  marsh  thus  con- 
verted into  dry  ground  by  the  sedimentation.  Three 
sturdy  horses  were  needed  to  do  the  plowing.  The 
earth  turned  up  in  chunks  as 
large  as  a  man's  body.  Con- 
trary to  my  plowman's  doubts 
and  predictions,  Jack  Frost 
did  a  grand  milling  business 
that  winter !  Clods  that  could 
hardly  be  broken  in  the  au-  3^^^^^^  p~  ^^  ^^,^.^^  J 
tumn  with  a  sledge  hammer 

crumbled  down  in  the  spring  at  the  touch  of  a 
garden  rake! 

CULTIVATION 

Having  thoroughly  fined  the  surface  of  the  garden 
by  harrowing  and  raking,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  or 
the  plants  transplanted  as  already  noted.  From  this 
time  forward  the  surface  must  be  kept  loose  and 
open  by  surface  cultivation  every  week  or  10  days 
and  after  every  shower  that  forms  a  crust,  until  the 
plants  cover  the  whole  ground.  This  frequent  cul- 
tivation is  not  merely  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  weeds  in  check;  it  is  a  necessary  operation  to 
keep  the  immediate  surface  layer  powdery,  in  which 


48  CULINARY    HERBS 

condition  it  will  act  as  a  mulch  to  prevent  the  loss 
of  water  from  the  lower  soil  layers.  When  kept  in 
perfect  condition  by  frequent  stirring  the  immediate 
surface  should  be  powdery.  Yes,  pozvdery!  Within 
I  inch  of  the  surface,  however,  the  color  will  be 
darker  from  the  presence  of  moisture.  When  sup- 
plied with  such  conditions,  failures  must  be  attrib- 
uted to  other  causes  than  lack  of  water. 

DOUBLE  CROPPING  , 

When  desired,  herbs  may  be  used  as  secondary 
crops  to  follow  such  early  vegetables  as  early  cab- 
bage and  peas ;  or,  if  likely  to  be 
needed  still  earlier,  after  radishes, 
transplanted  lettuce  and  onions 
grown  from  sets.  These  primary 
crops,  having  reached  marketable 
size,  are  removed,  the  ground 
stirred  and  the  herb  plants  trans- 
planted from  nursery  beds  or  cold 
frames. 

Often  the  principal  herbs — 
sage,  savory,  marjoram  and 
thyme — are  set  close  together, 
both  the  rows  and  the  plants  in 
them  being  nearer  than  recom- 
mended further  on.  The  object  of 
such  practice  is  to  get  several  crops  in  the  follow- 
ing way:  When  the  plants  in  the  rows  commence 
to  crowd  one  another  each  alternate  plant  is  re- 
moved and  sold  or  cured.     This  may  perhaps  be 


0  2- 

0 

— 

0 

11  3X 

1 

X 

i 

0  2- 

0 

- 

0 

11   3X 

1 

X 

1 

0    - 

0 

- 

0 

1     X 

1 

X 

f 

0    - 

g 

.- 

0 

1     X 

1 

X 

1 

0  - 

0 

- 

0 

Thinning  Scheme 
Harvesting 

for 

CULINARY    HERBS  49 

done  a  second  time.  Then  when  the  rows  begin  to 
crowd,  each  alternate  row  is  removed  and  the 
remainder  allowed  to  develop  more  fully.  The  chief 
advantages  of  this  practice  are  not  only  that  several 
crops  may  be  gathered,  but  each  plant,  being  sup- 
plied with  plenty  of  room  and  light,  will  have  fewer 
yellow  or  dead  leaves  than  when  crowded.  In  the 
diagram  the  numbers  show  which  plants  are  re- 
moved first,  second,  third  and  last. 

HERB  RELATIONSHIPS 

Those  readers  who  delight  to  delve  among  pedi- 
grees, genealogies  and  family  connections,  may  per- 
haps be  a  little  disappointed  to  learn  that,  in  spite 
of  the  odorous  nature  of  the  herbs,  there  are  none 
whose  history  reveals  a  skeleton  in  the  closet.  They 
are  all  harmless.  Now  and  then,  to  be  sure,  there 
occur  records  of  a  seemingly  compromising  nature, 
such  as  the  effects  attributed  to  the  eating  or  even 
the  handling  of  celery;  but  such  accounts,  harrow- 
ing as  they  may  appear,  are  insufficient  to  warrant 
a  bar  sinister.  Indeed,  not  only  is  the  mass  of  evi- 
dence in  favor  of  the  defendant,  but  it  casts  a  reflec- 
tion upon  the  credibility  of  the  plaintiff,  who  may 
usually  be  shown  to  have  indulged  immoderately, 
to  have  been  frightened  by  hallucinations  or  even 
to  have  arraigned  the  innocent  for  his  own  guilt. 
Certain  it  is  that  there  is  not  one  of  the  sweet  herbs 
mentioned  in  this  volume  that  has  not  long  enjoyed 
a  more  or  less  honored  place  in  the  cuisine  of  all  the 
continents,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  occasional  toot- 
ings  of  some  would-be  detractor. 


50  CULINARY    HERBS 

Like  those  classes  of  society  that  cannot  move 
with  "the  four  hundred,"  the  herbs  are  very  ex- 
clusive, more  exclusive  indeed,  than  their  superiors, 
the  other  vegeta,bles.  Very  few  members  have  they 
admitted  that  do  not  belong  to  two  approved  fami- 
lies, and  such  unrelated  ones  as  do  reach  the 
charmed  circles  must  first  prove  their  worthiness 
and  then  hold  their  places  by  intrinsic  merit. 

These  two  coteries  are  known 
as  the  Labiatse  and  the  Umbel- 
liferse,  the  former  including  the 
sages,  mints  and  their  connec- 
tions; the  latter  the  parsleys  and 
Center  Row  Hand  their  relatives.  With  the  excep- 
Cuitivator  ^-^^^  q£  tarragou,  which   belongs 

to  the  Composit3e,  parsley  and  a  few  of  its 
relatives  which  have  deserted  their  own  ranks, 
all  the  important  leaf  herbs  belong  to  the  Labi- 
atse;  and  without  a  notable  exception  all  the 
herbs  whose  seeds  are  used  for  flavoring  belong  to 
the  Umbelliferse.  Fennel-flower,  which  belongs  to 
the  natural  order  Ranunculacese,  or  crowfoot  fam- 
ily, is  a  candidate  for  admission  to  the  seed  sodality ; 
costmary  and  southernwood  of  the  Compositae  seek 
membership  with  the  leaf  faction ;  rue  of  the  Ru- 
tace^  and  tansy  of  the  Compositae,  in  spite  of  suspen- 
sion for  their  boldness  and  ill-breeding,  occasionally 
force  their  way  back  into  the  domain  of  the  leaf 
herbs.  Marigold,  a  composite,  forms  a  clique  by 
itself,  the  most  exclusive  club  of  all.  It  has 
admitted  no  members!  And  there  seem  to  be  no 
candidates. 


CULINARY    HERBS  5 1 

The  important  members  of  the  Labiatse  are : 

Sage  (Salvia  officinalis,  Linn.). 

Savory  (Saturcia  hortcnsis,  Linn.). 

Savory,  winter  (Satureia  montana,  Linn.). 

Thyme  (Thymus  vulgaris,  Linn.). 

Marjoram   (Origanum  Marjoram;  0.  Onites,  ^nn^; 

and  M.  vulgare,  Linn.). 
Balm  (Melissa  officinalis,  Linn.). 
Basil   (Ocimum  Basiliciim,  Linn.,   and   O.   minimum, 

Linn.). 
Spearmint    (Mentha    spicata,    Linn.,    or    M.    viridis, 

Linn.). 
Peppermint  (Mentha  Piperita,  Linn.). 
Rosemary  (Rosmarinus  officinalis,  Linn.). 
Clary  (Salvia  Sclarea,  Linn.). 
Pennyroyal  (Mentha  Pulegium,  Linn.). 
Horehound  (Marrubium  vulgare,  Linn.). 
Hyssop  (Hyssopus  vulgaris,  Linn.). 
Catnip  (Nepeta  Cataria,  Linn.). 
Lavender  (Lavandula  vera,  D.  C. ;  L.  spica,  D.  C). 

These  plants,  which  are  mostly  natives  of  mild 
climates  of  the  old  world,  are  characterized  by  hav- 
ing square  stems;  opposite,  simple  leaves  and 
branches ;  and  more  or  less  two-lipped  flowers  which 
appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  occasionally  alone, 
but  usually  several  together,  forming  little  whorls, 
which  often  compose  loose  or  compact  spikes  or 
racemes.  Each  fertile  blossom  is  followed  by  four 
little  seedlike  fruits  in  the  bottom  of  the  calyx, 
which  remains  attached  to  the  plant.  The  foliage  is 
generally  plentifully  dotted  with  minute  glands  that 


52  CULINARY   HERBS 

contain  a  volatile  oil,  upon  which  depends  the  aroma 
and    piquancy   peculiar   to   the    individual    species. 

The  leading  species  of  the  Umbelliferse  are : 
Parsky  (Carum  Petroselinum,  Benth.  and  Hook.). 
Dill  (Ancthiim  graveolens,  Linn.). 
Fennel  (FcBniculiim  officinale,  Linn.). 
Angelica  (Archangelica  officinalis,  Hoofm.). 
Anise  (Pimpinella  anisum,  Linn.). 
Caraway  (Carum  Carui,  Linn.). 
Coriander  (Coriandrum  sativum,  Linn.). 
Chervil  (Scandix  Cere  folium,  Linn.). 
Cumin  or  Cummin  (Cuminum  Cyminum,  Linn.). 
Lovage  (Levisticum  officinale,  Koch.). 
Samphire  (Crithmum  maritimum,  Linn.). 

Like  the  members  of  the  pre- 
ceding group,  the  species  of  the 
Umbelliferae  are  principally  na- 
tives of  mild  climates  of  the  old 
world,  but  many  of  them  extend 
Hand  Plow  farther  north  into  the  cold  parts 

of  the  continent,  even  beyond  the 
Arctic  Circle  in  some  cases.  They  have  cylindrical, 
usually  hollow  stems ;  alternate,  generally  com- 
pound leaves  the  basis  of  whose  stalks  ensheath  the 
branches  or  stems ;  and  small  flowers  almost  always 
arranged  in  compound  terminal  umbels.  The  fruits 
are  composed  of  two  seedlike  dry  carpels,  each  con- 
taining a  single  seed,  and  usually  separating  when 
ripe.  Each  carpel  bears  five  longitudinal  prominent 
ribs  and  several,  often  four,  lesser  intermediate  ones, 
in  the  intervals  between  which  numerous  oil  ducts 
have  their  openings  from  the  interior  of  the  fruit. 


CULINARY    HERBS  53 

The  oil  is  generally  found  in  more  or  less  abundance 
also  in  other  parts  of  the  plant,  but  is  usually  most 
plentiful  in  the  fruits. 

The  members  of  the  Compositse  used  as  sweet 
herbs  are,  with  the  exception  of  tarragon,  compara- 
tively unimportant,  and  except  for  having  their  flow- 
ers in  close  heads  *'on  a  common  receptacle,  sur- 
rounded by  an  involucre,"  have  few  conspicuous 
characters  in  common.  No  further  space  except  that 
required  for  their  enumeration  need  here  be  devoted 
to  them.  And  this  remark  will  apply  also  to  the 
other  two  herbs  mentioned  further  below. 

COMPOSITE 

Marigold,  Pot  (Calendula  officinalis,  Linn.). 
Tansy  (Tanacetum  vulgaris,  Linn.). 
Tarragon  (Artemisia  Dracunculus,  Linn.). 
Southernwood  (Artemisia  Abrotanum,  Linn.). 

RUTACEJE 

Rue  (Ruta  graveolens,  Linn.). 

BORAGINACEiE 

Borage  (Borago  officinalis,  Linn.). 

RANUNCULACE^ 

Fennel-flower  (Nigclla  sativa,  Linn.). 

Before  dismissing  this  section  of  the  subject,  it 
may  be  interesting  to  glance  over  the  list  of  names 


54  CULINARY    HERBS 

once  more.  Seven  of  these  plants  were  formerly  so 
prominent  in  medicine  that  they  were  designated 
''official"  and  nearly  all  the  others  were  extensively 
used  by  physicians.  At  the  present  day  there  are 
very  few  that  have  not  passed  entirely  out  of  official 
medicine  and  even  out  of  domestic  practice,  at  least 
so  far  as  their  intrinsic  qualities  are  concerned. 
Some,  to  be  sure,  are  still  employed  because  of  their 
pleasant  flavors,  which  disguise  the  disagreeable 
taste  of  other  drugs.  But  this  is  a  very  different 
matter. 

One  of  the  most  notable  of  these  is  fennel.  What 
wonders  could  that  plant  not  perform  300  years  ago ! 
In  Parkinson's  "Theatricum  Botanicum"  (1640)  its 
"vertues"  are  recorded.  Apart  from  its  use  as  food, 
for  which,  then,  as  now,  it  was  highly  esteemed, 
without  the  attachment  of  any  medicinal  qualities  as 
an  esculent,  it  was  considered  efficacious  in  cases  of 
gout,  jaundice,  cramps,  shortness  of  breath,  wheez- 
ing of  the  lungs  ;  for  cleansing  of  the  blood  and  im- 
proving the  complexion ;  to  use  as  an  eye-water  or 
to  increase  the  flow  of  milk ;  as  a  remedy  for  serpent 
bites  or  an  antidote  for  poisonous  herbs  and  mush- 
rooms ;  and  for  people  who  ''are  growen  fat  to  abate 
their  unwieldinesse  and  make  them  more  gaunt  and 
lanke." 

But  let  us  peep  into  the  19th  edition  of  the  United 
States  Dispensatory.  Can  this  be  the  same  fennel 
which  "is  one  of  our  most  grateful  aromatics,"  and 
which,  because  of  "the  absence  of  any  highly  ex- 
citant property,"  is  recommended  for  mixing  with 
unpleasant  medicines?     Ask  any  druggist,  and  he 


CULINARY    HERBS  55 

will  say  it  is  used  for  little  else  nowadays  than  for 
making  a  tea  to  give  babies  for  wind  on  their  stom- 
achs. Strange,  but  true  it  is !  Similar  statements 
if  not  more  remarkable  ones  could  be  made  about 
many  of  the  other  herbs  herein  discussed.  Many  of 
these  are  spoken  of  as  ''formerly  considered  specific" 
for  such  and  such  troubles  but  *'now  known  to  be 
inert." 

The  cause  is  not  far  to  seek.  An  imaginative  and 
superstitious  people  attached  fanciful  powers  to 
these  and  hundreds  of  other  plants  which  the  inter- 
vening centuries  have  been  unable  wholly  to  eradi- 
cate, for  among  the  more  ignorant  classes,  especially 
of  Europe,  many  of  these  relics  of  a  dark  age  still 
persist. 

But  let  us  not  gloat  over  our  superior  knowledge. 
After  a  similar  lapse  of  time,  may  not  our  vaunted 
wisdom  concerning  the  properties  of  plants  look  as 
ridiculous  to  the  delver  among  our  musty  volumes  ? 
Indeed,  it  may,  if  we  may  judge  by  the  discoveries 
and  investigations  of  only  the  past  fifty  years.  Dur- 
ing this  time  a  surprisingly  large  number  of  plants 
have  been  proved  to  be  not  merely  innocuous  instead 
of  poisonous,  as  they  were  reputed,  but  fit  for 
human  food  and  even  of  superior  excellence  I 

THE  HERB  LIST 

Angelica  {ArchangcUca  officinalis,  HoFm.),  a  bien- 
nial or  perennial  herb  of  the  natural  order  Umbel- 
liferse,  so  called  from  its  supposed  medicinal  quali- 
ties.    It  is  believed  to  be  a  native  of  Syria,  from 


Prophecy   of  Many   Toothsome    Dishes 


CULINARY    HERBS  57 

whence  it  has  spread  to  many  cool  -European 
climates,  especially  Lapland  and  the  Alps,  where  it 
has  become  naturalized. 

Description.  Its  roots  are  long,  spindle-shaped, 
fleshy,  and  sometimes  weigh  three  pounds ;  its  stems 
stout,  herbaceous,  fluted,  often  more  than  4  feet  tall, 
and  hollow;  its  leaves  long-stalked,  frequently  3 
feet  in  length,  reddish  purple  at  the  clasping  bases, 
and  composed,  in  the  larger  ones,  of  numerous  small 
leaflets,  in  three  principal  groups,  which  are  each 
subdivided  into  three  lesser  groups;  its  flowers  yel- 
lowish or  greenish,  small  and  numerous,  in  large 
roundish  umbels ;  its  seeds  pale  yellow,  membran- 
ous-edged, oblong  flattened  on  one  side,  convex  on 
the  other,  which  is  marked  with  three  conspicuous 
ribs. 

Cultivation.  Since  the  seeds  lose  their  vitality 
rapidly,  rarely  being  viable  after  the  first  year,  they 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  late  summer  or 
early  autumn,  or  not  later  than  the  following  spring 
after  having  been  kept  during  the  winter  in  a  cold 
storeroom.  The  soil  should  be  moderately  rich, 
rather  light,  deep,  well  drained,  but  moist  and  well 
supplied  with  humus.  It  should  be  deeply  prepared 
and  kept  loose  and  open  as  long  as  tools  can  be  used 
among  the  plants,  which  may  be  left  to  care  for 
themselves  as  soon  as  they  shade  the  ground  well. 

In  the  autumn,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain  or  preferably  in  a  nursery  bed, 
which  usually  does  not  need  protection  during  the 
winter.  In  the  spring  a  mild  hotbed,  a  cold  frame 
or  a  nursery  bed  in  the  garden  may  be  used,  accord- 


58  CULINARY    HERBS 

ing  to  the.earliness  of  planting.  Half  an  inch  is  deep 
enough  to  cover  the  seeds.  The  seedlings  should  be 
transplanted  when  still  small  for  their  first  summer's 
growth,  a  space  of  about  i8  inches  being  allowed 
between  them.  In  the  autumn  they  should  be  re- 
moved to  permanent  quarters,  the  plants  being  set  3 
feet  apart. 

If  well  grown,  the  leaves  may  be  cut  for  use  dur- 
ing the  summer  after  transplanting;  the  plants  may 
not,  however,  produce  seed  until  the  following  sea- 
son. Unless  seed  is  desired,  the  tops  should  be  cut 
and  destroyed  at  or  before  flowering  time,  because, 
if  this  be  not  done,  the  garden  is  apt  to  become  over- 
run with  angelica  seedlings.  If  the  seeds  are 
wanted,  they  should  be  gathered  and  treated  as  indi- 
cated on  page  28.  After  producing  seed,  the  plants 
frequently  die ;  but  by  cutting  down  the  tops  when 
the  flower  heads  first  appear,  and  thus  preventing 
the  formation  of  seed,  the  plants  may  continue  for 
several  years  longer. 

Uses.  The  stems  and  leaf  stalks,  while  still  succu- 
lent, are  eaten  as  a  salad  or  are  roasted  or  boiled  like 
potatoes.  In  Europe,  they  are  frequently  employed 
as  a  garnish  or  as  an  adjunct  to  dishes  of  meat  and 
fish.  They  are  also  largely  used  for  making  candied 
angelica.  (See  below.)  Formerly  the  stems  were 
blanched  like  celery  and  were  very  popular  as  a  veg- 
etable ;  now  they  are  little  used  in  the  United  States. 
The  tender  leaves  are  often  boiled  and  eaten  as  a 
substitute  for  spinach.  Less  in  America  than  in 
Europe,  the  seeds,  which,  like  other  parts  of  the 
plant,  are  aromatic  and  bitterish,  are  used  for  flavor- 


CULINARY    HERBS  59 

ing  various  beverages,  cakes,  and  candies,  especially 
''comfits."  Oil  of  angelica  is  obtained  from  the  seeds 
by  distillation  with  steam  or  boiling  w^ater,  the  vapor 
being  condensed  and  the  oil  separated  by  gravity.  It 
is  also  obtained  in  smaller  quantity  from  the  roots, 
200  pounds  of  w^hich,  it  is  said,  yield  only  about  one 
pound  of  the  oil.  Like  the  seeds,  the  oil  is  used  for 
flavoring. 

Angelica  candied.  Green  says:  The  fresh  roots, 
the  tender  stems,  the  leaf  stalks  and  the  midribs  of 
the  leaves  make  a  pleasing  aromatic  candy.  When 
fresh  gathered  the  plant  is  rather  too  bitter  for  use. 
This  flavor  may  be  reduced  by  boiling.  The  parts 
should  first  be  sliced  lengthw^ise,  to  remove  the  pith. 
The  length  of  time  w^ill  depend  somew^hat  upon  the 
thickness  of  the  pieces.  A  few  minutes  is  usually 
sufficient.  After  removal  and  draining  the  pieces 
are  put  in  a  syrup  of  granulated  sugar  and  boiled 
till  full  candy  density  is  reached.  The  kettle  is  then 
removed  from  the  fire  and  the  contents  allowed  to 
cool.  When  almost  cold  the  pieces  are  to  be  taken 
out  and  allowed  to  dry. 

Anise  (Pimpinella  Auisum,  Linn.),  an  annual  herb 
of  the  natural  order  Umbelliferse.  It  is  a  native  of 
southwestern  Asia,  northern  Africa  and  south- 
eastern Europe,  whence  it  has  been  introduced  by 
man  throughout  the  Mediterranean  region,  into 
Germany,  and  to  some  extent  into  other  temperate 
regions  of  both  hemispheres,  but  seems  not  to  be 
known  anywhere  in  the  wild  state  or  as  an  escape 
from  gardens.  To  judge  from  its  mention  in  the 
Scriptures  (Matthew  xxiii,  23).  it  was  highly  valued 


60 


CULINARY    HERBS  6l 

as  a  cultivated  crop  prior  to  our  era,  not  only  in 
Palestine,  but  elsewhere  in  the  East.  Many  Greek 
and  Roman  authors,  especially  Dioscorides,  Theo- 
phrastus,  Pliny  and  Paladius,  wrote  more  or  less 
fully  of  its  cultivation  and  uses. 

From  their  days  to  the  present  it  seems  to  have 
enjoyed  general  popularity.  In  the  ninth  century, 
Charlemagne  commanded  that  it  be  grown  upon  the 
imperial  farms ;  in  the  thirteenth,  Albertus  Magnus 
speaks  highly  of  it ;  and  since  then  many  agricultural 
writers  have  devoted  attention  to  it.  But  though  it 
has  been  cultivated  for  at  least  two  thousand  years 
and  is  now  extensively  grown  in  Malta,  Spain, 
southern  France,  Russia,  Germany  .and  India,  which 
mainly  supply  the  market,  it  seems  not  to  have 
developed  any  improved  varieties. 

Description. — Its  roots  are  white,  spindle-shaped 
and  rather  fibrous ;  its  stems  about  i8  inches  tall, 
branchy,  erect,  slender,  cylindrical;  its  root  leaves 
lobed  somewhat  like  those  of  celery;  its  stem  leaves 
more  and  more  finely  cut  toward  the  upper  part  of 
the  stem,  near  the  top  of  which  they  resemble  fennel 
leaves  in  their  finely  divided  segments ;  its  flowers 
yellowish  white,  small,  rather  large,  in  loose  umbels 
consisting  of  many  umbellets ;  its  fruits  ("seeds") 
greenish-gray,  small,  ovoid  or  oblong  in  outline, 
longitudinally  furrowed  and  ridged  on  the  convex 
side,  very  aromatic,  sweetish  and  pleasantly  piquant. 

Cultivation, — The  seeds,  which  should  be  as  fresh  as 
possible,  never  more  than  two  years  old,  should  be 
sown  in  permanent  quarters  as  soon  as  the  weather 
becomes  settled  in  early  spring.     They  should  be 


62  CULINARY    HERBS 

planted  ^  inch  deep,  about  y^  inch  asunder,  in  drills 
15  or  18  inches  apart,  and  the  plants  thinned  when 
about  2  inches  tall  to  stand  6  inches  asunder.  An 
ounce  of  seed  should  plant  about  150  feet  of  drill. 
The  plants,  which  do  not  transplant  readily,  thrive 
best  in  well-drained,  light,  rich,  rather  dry,  loamy 
soils  well  exposed  to  the  sun.  A  light  application 
of  well-rotted  manure,  careful  preparation  of  the 
ground,  clean  and  frequent  cultivation,  are  the  only 
requisites  in  the  management  of  this  crop. 

In  about  four  months  from  the  sowing  of  the 
seed,  and  in  about  one  month  from  the  appearance 
of  the  flowers,  the  plants  may  be  pulled,  or  prefer- 
ably cut,  for  drying.  (See  page  25.)  The  climate 
and  the  soils  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  northern 
states  appear  to  be  favorable  to  the  commercial 
cultivation  of  anise,  which  it  seems  should  prove  a 
profitable  crop  under  proper  management. 

Uses. — The  leaves  are  frequently  employed  as  a 
garnish,  for  flavoring  salads,  and  to  a  small  extent 
as  potherbs.  Far  more  general,  however,  is  the  use 
of  the  seeds,  which  enter  as  a  flavoring  into  various 
condiments,  especially  curry  powders,  many  kinds 
of  cake,  pastry,  and  confectionery  and  into  some 
kinds  of  cheese  and  bread.  Anise  oil  is  extensively 
employed  for  flavoring  many  beverages  both  alco- 
holic and  non-spirituous  and  for  disguising  the  un- 
pleasant flavors  of  various  drugs.  The  seeds  are 
also  ground  and  compounded  with  other  fragrant 
materials  for  making  sachet  powders,  and  the  oil 
mixed  with  other  fluids  for  liquid  perfumes.  Vari- 
ous similar  anise  combinations  are  largely  used  in 


CULINARY    HERBS  63 

perfuming  soaps,  pomatums  and  other  toilet  arti- 
cles. The  very  volatile,  nearly  colorless  oil  is  usu- 
ally obtained  by  distillation  with  water,  about  50 
pounds  of  seed  being  required  to  produce  one  pound  of 
oil.  At  Erfurt,  Germany,  where  much  of  the  com- 
mercial oil  is  made,  the  ''hay"  and  the  seeds  are  both 
used  for  distilling. 

Balm  (Melissa  officinalis,  Linn.),  a  perennial  herb 
of  the  natural  order  Labiatse.  The  popular  name  is 
a  contraction  of  balsam,  the  plant  having  formerly 
been  considered  a  specific  for  a  host  of  ailments. 
The  generic  name,  Melissa,  is  the  Greek  for  bee  and 
is  an  allusion  to  the  fondness  of  bees  for  the  abun- 
dant nectar  of  the  flowers. 

Balm  is  a  native  of  southern  Europe,  where  it 
was  cultivated  as  a  source  of  honey  and  as  a  sweet 
herb  more  than  2,000  years  ago.  It  is  frequently 
mentioned  in  Greek  and  Latin  poetry  and  prose. 
Because  of  its  use  for  anointing,  Shakespeare  re- 
ferred to  it  in  the  glorious  lines  (King  Richard  IL, 
act  iii,  scene  2)  : 

"  Not  all  the  water  in  the  rough,  rude  sea 
Can  wash  the  balm  from  an  anointed  king." 

As  a  useful  plant  it  received  attention  from  the 
pen  of  Pliny.  From  its  home  it  has  been  introduced 
by  man  as  a  garden  plant  into  nearly  all  temperate 
climates  throughout  the  world,  and  is  often  found 
as  an  escape  from  gardens  where  introduced — occa- 
sionally in  this  role  in  the  earliest  settled  of  the 
United  States.  Very  few  well-marked  varieties 
have  been  produced.    A  variegated  one,  now  grown 


64  CULINARY    HERBS 

for  ornament  as  well  as  for  culinary  purposes,  is 
probably  the  same  as  that  mentioned  by  Mawe  in 
1778. 

Description. — The  roots  are  small  and  fibrous;  the 
stems,  about  18  inches  tall,  very  numerous,  erect 
or  spreading,  square;  the  leaves,  green  (except  as 
mentioned),  broadly  ovate  with  toothed  margins, 
opposite,  rather  succulent,  highly  scented ;  the  flow- 
ers, few,  whitish,  or  purplish,  in  small,  loose,  axillary, 
one-sided  clusters  borne  from  midsummer  until  late 
autumn;  the  seeds  very  small — more  than  50,000  to 
the  ounce. 

Cultivation. — Balm  is  readily  propagated  by  means 
of  divisions,  layers,  cuttings,  and  by  its  seeds,  which 
germinate  fairly  well  even  when  four  years  old. 
Owing  to  its  small  size,  the  seed  should  be  planted 
in  a  seedpan  or  flat  in  a  greenhouse  or  hotbed, 
where  all  conditions  can  be  controlled.  The  soil 
should  be  made  very  fine  and  friable,  the  thinly 
scattered  seeds  merely  pressed  upon  the  surface 
with  a  block  or  a  brick,  and  water  applied  preferably 
through  the  bottom  of  the  seedpan,  which  may  be 
set  in  a  shallow  dish  of  water  until  the  surface  of 
the  soil  begins  to  appear  moist. 

When  an  inch  tall  the  seedlings  should  be  pricked 
out  2  inches  apart  in  other,  deeper  flats  and  when 
about  4  inches  tall  set  in  the  garden  about  i  foot 
asunder  in  rows  about  18  inches  apart.  When  once 
established  they  may  be  increased  readily  by  the 
artificial  means  mentioned.  (See  page  34.)  Ordi- 
nary clean  cultivation  throughout  the  season,  the 
removal   of   dead   parts,   and   care   to   prevent   the 


CULINARY    HERBS  65 

plants  from  spreading  unduly,  are  the  only  requi- 
sites of  cultivation.  Preferably  the  soil  should  be 
poor,  rather  dry,  little  if  at  all  enriched  and  in  a 
sunny  place.  The  foliage  of  seedling  plants  or  plants 
newly  spring-set  should  be  ready  for  use  by  mid- 
summer; that  of  established  plants  from  early 
spring  until  late  autumn.  For  home  use  and  market 
it  should  be  cured  as  recommended  on  page  25,  the 
leaves  being  very  .thinly  spread  and  plentifully  sup- 
plied with  air  because  of  their  succulence.  The 
temperature  should  be  rather  low. 

Uses. — The  foliage  is  widely  used  for  flavoring 
soups,  stews,  sauces,  and  dressings,  and,  when  fresh, 
to  a  small  extent  with  salads.  Otto  or  oil  of  balm, 
obtained  by  aqueous  distillation  from  the  "hay,"  is 
a  pale  yellow,  essential  and  volatile  oil  highly  prized 
in  perfumery  for  its  lemon-like  odor,  and  is  exten- 
sively employed  for  flavoring  various  beverages. 

Basil  (Ocymum  hasilicum,  Linn.),  an  annual  herb 
of  the  order  Labiatse.  The  popular  name,  derived 
from  the  specific,  signifies  royal  or  kingly,  probably 
because  of  the  plant's  use  in  feasts.  In  France  it  is 
known  as  herb  royale,  royal  herb.  The  generic  name 
is  derived  from  O-sa,  a  Greek  word  signifying  odor. 

The  plant  is  a  native  of  tropical  Asia,  where  for 
centuries,  especially  in  India,  it  has  been  highly 
esteemed  as  a  condiment.  Probably  the  early  Greek 
and  Roman  writers  were  well  acqainted  with  it,  but 
commentators  are  not  decided.  They  suppose  that 
the  Okimon  of  Hippocrates,  Dioscorides  and  Theo- 
phrastus  is  the  same  as  Ocimum  hortense  of  Columella 
and  A^arro. 


66 


CULINARY    HERBS 


The  plant's  introduction  into  England  was  about 
1548,  or  perhaps  a  little  earlier,  but  probably  not 
prior  to  1538,  because  Turner  does  not 
mention  it  in  his  ''Libellus,"  published 
in  that  year.  It  seems  to  have  grown 
rapidly  in  popularity,  for  in  1586  Lyte 
speaks  of  it  as  if  well  known.  In 
America  it  has  been  cultivated 
somewhat  for  about  a  century 
partly  because  of  its  fragrant 
leaves  which  are  employed 
in  bouquets,  but  mainly  for 
flavoring  culinary  concoc- 
tions. In  Australia  it  is 
also  more  or  less  grown, 
and  in  countries  where 
French  commerce  or  other 
interests  have  penetrated 
it  is  well  known. 

There  are  several  related 
species  which,  in  America 
less  than  in  Europe  or  the 
East,  have  attracted  atten- 
tion. The  most  important  of 
these  is  dwarf  or  bush  basil 
(O.  minimum,  Linn.),  a 
small  Chilian  species  also 
reported  from  Cochin 
China.  It  was  introduced 
into  cultivation  in  Europe  in  1573.  On  account 
of  its  compact  form  it  is  popular  in  gardens  as  an 
edging  as  well  as  a  culinary  herb,  for  more  than  a 


Sweet  Basil 


CULINARY    HERBS  6j 

century  it  has  been  grown  in  America.  Sacred 
basil  (O.  sanctum),  an  oriental  species,  is  cultivated 
near  temples  in  India  and  its  odoriferous  oil  ex- 
tracted for  religious  uses.  Formerly  the  common 
species  was  considered  sacred  by  the  Brahmins 
who  used  it  especially  in  honor  of  Vishnu  and  in 
funeral  rites.  An  African  species,  O.  jruticosum,  is 
highly  valued  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  for  its 
perfume. 

Description. — From  the  small,  fibrous  roots  the 
square  stems  stand  erect  about  i  foot  tall.  They 
are  very  branching  and  leafy.  The  leaves  are  green, 
except  as  noted  below,  ovate,  pointed,  opposite, 
somewhat  toothed,  rather  succulent  and  highly  fra- 
grant. The  little  white  flowers  which  appear  in  mid- 
summer are  racemed  in  leafy  whorls,  followed  by 
small  black  fruits,  popularly  called  seeds.  These,  like 
flaxseed,  emit  a  mucilaginous  substance  when  soaked 
in  water.  About  23,000  weigh  an  ounce,  and  10  ounces 
fill  a  pint.     Their  vitality  lasts  about  eight  years. 

Like  most  of  the  other  culinary  herbs,  basil  has 
varied  little  in  several  centuries ;  there  are  no  well- 
marked  varieties  of  modern  origin.  Only  three 
varieties  of  common  basil  are  listed  In  America ; 
Vilmorin  lists  only  five  French  ones.  Purple  basil 
has  lilac  flowers,  and  when  grown  in  the  sun  also 
purple  leaf  stems  and  young  branches.  Lettuce- 
leaved  basil  has  large,  pale-green  blistered  and 
wrinkled  leaves  like  those  of  lettuce.  Its  closely  set 
clusters  of  flowers  appear  somewhat  late.  The 
leaves  are  larger  and  fewer  than  in  the  common 
variety. 


68  CULINARY   HERBS 

The  dwarf  species  is  more  compact,  branching 
and  dainty  than  the  common  species.  It  has  three 
varieties;  one  with  deep  violet  foliage  and  stems  and 
lilac  white  flowers,  and  two  with  green  leaves,  one 
very  dense  and  compact. 

East  Indian,  or  Tree  Basil  (0.  gratissimiim,  Linn.), 
a  well-known  species  in  the  Orient,  seems  to  have  a 
substitute  in  O.  suave,  also  known  by  the  same  popu- 
lar name,  and  presumably  the  species  cultivated  in 
Europe  and  to  some  extent  in  America.  It  is  an  up- 
right, branching  annual,  which  forms  a  pyramidal 
bush  about  20  inches  tall  and  often  15  inches  in 
diameter.  It  favors  very  warm  situations  and  tropi- 
cal countries. 

Cultivation. — Basil  is  propagated  by  seeds.  Be- 
cause these  are  very  small,  they  are  best  sown  in 
flats  under  glass,  covered  lightly  with  finely  sifted 
soil  and  moistened  by  standing  in  a  shallow  pan  of 
water  until  the  surface  shows  a  wet  spot.  When 
about  an  inch  tall,  the  seedlings  must  be  pricked 
out  2  inches  apart  each  way  in  larger-sized  flats. 
When  3  inches  tall  they  will  be  large  enough  for  the 
garden,  where  they  should  be  set  i  foot  asunder 
in  rows  15  to  18  inches  apart.  Often  the  seed  is 
sown  in  the  mellow  border  as  early  in  the  spring 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  This  method  de- 
mands perhaps  more  attention  than  the  former, 
because  of  weeds  and  because  the  rows  cannot  be 
easily  seen.  When  transplanting,  preference  should 
be  given  to  a  sunny  situation  in  a  mellow,  light, 
fertile,  rather  dry  soil  thoroughly  well  prepared 
and  as  free  from  weeds  as  possible.    From  the  start 


CULINARY   HERBS  69 

the  ground  must  be  kept  loose,  open  and  clean.  When 
the  plants  meet  in  the  rows  cultivation  may  stop. 

First  gatherings  of  foliage  should  begin  by  mid- 
summer when  the  plants  start  to  blossom.  Then 
they  may  be  cut  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the 
ground.  The  stumps  should  develop  a  second  and 
even  a  third  crop  if  care  is  exercised  to  keep  the 
surface  clean  and  open.  A  little  dressing  of  quickly 
available  fertilizer  applied  at  this  time  Is  helpful. 
For  seed  some  of  the  best  plants  should  be  left  un- 
cut.   The  seed  should  ripen  by  mid-autumn. 

For  winter  use  plants  may  be  transplanted  from 
the  garden,  or  seedlings  may  be  started  in  Septem- 
ber. The  seeds  should  be  sown  two  to  the  inch 
and  the  seedlings  transplanted  to  pots  or  boxes.  A 
handy  pot  is  the  4-inch  standard;  this  is  large 
enough  for  one  plant.  In  flats  the  plants  should  be 
5  or  6  inches  apart  each  way. 

Uses. — Basil  is  one  of  the  most  popular  herbs  in 
the  French  cuisine.  It  is  especially  relished  in  mock 
turtle  soup,  which,  when  correctly  made,  derives  its 
peculiar  taste  chiefly  from  the  clovelike  flavor  of 
basil.  In  other  highly  seasoned  dishes,  such  as 
stews  and  dressings,  basil  is  also  highly  prized.  It  is 
less  used  In  salads.  A  golden  yellow  essential  oil, 
which  reddens  with  age,  is  extracted  from  the  leaves 
for  uses  In  perfumery  more  than  In  the  kitchen. 

The  original  and  famous  Fetter  Lane  sausages, 
formerly  popular  with  Cockney  epicures,  owed  their 
reputation  mainly  to  basil.  During  the  reigns  of 
Queen   Mary  and  Queen   Elizabeth   farmers  grew 


70 


CULINARY    HERBS 


Borage,    Famous    for   "Cool    Tankard" 


CULINARY    HERBS  7 1 

basil  in  pots  and  presented  them  with  compliments 
to  their  landladies  when  these  paid  their  visits. 

Borage  (Borago  officinalis,  Linn.),  a  coarse,  hardy, 
annual  herb  of  the  natural  order  Boraginaceae.  Its 
popular  name,  derived  from  the  generic,  is  sup- 
posed by  some  to  have  come  from  a  corruption  of 
cor,  the  heart,  and  ago,  to  affect,  because  of  its  former 
use  as  a  cordial  or  heart-fortifying  medicine.  Cour- 
age is  from  the  same  source.  The  Standard  Diction- 
ary, however,  points  to  hurrago,  rough,  and  relates  it 
indirectly  by  cross  references  to  hirrus,  a  thick, 
coarse  woolen  cloth  worn  by  the  poor  during  the  thir- 
teenth century.  The  roughness  of  the  full-grown 
leaves  suggests  flannel.  Whichever  derivation  be 
correct,  each  is  interesting  as  implying  qualities, 
intrinsic  or  attributed,  to  the  plant. 

The  specific  name  indicates  its  obsolete  use  in 
medicine.  It  is  one  of  the  numerous  plants  which 
have  shaken  off  the  superstitions  which  a  credulous 
populace  wreathed  around  them.  Almost  none  but  the 
least  enlightened  people  now  attribute  any  medici- 
nal virtues  whatever  to  it. 

The  plant  is  said  to  come  originally  from  Aleppo, 
but  for  centuries  has  been  considered  a  native  of 
Mediterranean  Europe  and  Africa,  whence  it  has 
become  naturalized  throughout  the  world  by 
Europeans,  who  grew  it  probably  more  for  medicinal 
than  for  culinary  purposes.  According  to  Ainslie, 
it  was  among  the  species  listed  by  Peter  Martyr  as 
planted  on  Isabella  Island  by  Columbus's  compan- 
ions. The  probability  is  that  it  was  also  brought 
to  America  by  the  colonists  during  Queen   Eliza- 


72  CULINARY   HERBS 

beth's  time.  It  has  been  listed  in  American  seeds- 
men's catalogues  since  1806,  but  the  demand  has 
always  been  small  and  the  extent  to  which  it  is  cul- 
tivated very  limited. 

Description. — Borage  is  of  somewhat  spreading 
habit,  branchy,  about  20  inches  tall.  Its  oval  or  ob- 
long-lanceolate leaves  and  other  green  parts  are 
covered  with  whitish,  rather  sharp,  spreading  hairs. 
The  flowers,  generally  blue,  sometimes  pink,  violet- 
red,  or  white,  are  loosely  racemed  at  the  extremities 
of  the  branches  and  main  stems 

"The  flaming  rose  glooms  swarthy  red  ; 
The  borage  gleams  more  blue  ; 
And  low  white  flowers,  with  starry  head, 
Glimmer  the  rich  dusk  through." 

— George  MacDo7iald 

'^  Songs  of  the  Summer  Night,"  Part  III 

The  seeds  are  rather  large,  oblong,  slightly 
curved,  and  a  ridged  and  streaked  grayish-brown. 
They  retain  their  vitality  for  about  eight  years. 

Cultivation. — No  plant  is  more  easily  grown.  The 
seed  need  only  be  dropped  and  covered  in  any  soil, 
from  poor  to  rich,  and  the  plants  will  grow  like 
weeds,  and  even  become  such  if  allowed  to  have 
sway.  Borage  seems,  however,  to  prefer  rather 
light,  dry  soils,  waste  places  and  steep  banks.  Upon 
such  the  flavor  of  the  flowers  is  declared  to  be  supe- 
rior to  that  produced  upon  richer  ground,  which  de- 
velops a  ranker  growth  of  foliage. 

In  the  garden  the  seeds  are  sown  about  ^  inch 
asunder  and  in  rows  15  inches  apart.     Shortly  after 


CULINARY   HERBS  73 

the  plants  appear  they  are  thinned  to  stand  3  inches 
apart,  the  thinnings  being  cooked  like  spinach,  or, 
if  small  and  delicate,  they  may  be  made  into  salads. 
Two  other  thinnings  may  be  given  for  similar  pur- 
poses as  the  plants  grow,  so  that  at  the  final  thinning 
the  specimens  will  stand  about  a  foot  asunder.  Up  to 
this  time  the  ground  is  kept  open  and  clean  by  cultiva- 
tion ;  afterwards  the  borage  will  usually  have  possession. 

Uses. — More  popular  than  the  use  of  the  foliage 
as  a  potherb  and  a  salad  is  the  employment  of  bor- 
age blossoms  and  the  tender  upper  leaves,  in  com- 
pany or  not  with  those  of  nasturtium,  as  a  garnish 
or  an  ornament  to  salads,  and  still  more  as  an  addi- 
tion to  various  cooling  drinks.  The  best  known  of 
these  beverages  is  cool  tankard,  composed  of  wine, 
water,  lemon  juice,  sugar  and  borage  flowers.  To 
this  ''they  seem  to  give  additional  coolness."  They 
are  often  used  similarly  in  lemonade,  negus,  claret- 
cup  and  fruit  juice  drinks. 

The  plant  has  possibly  a  still  more  important 
though  undeveloped  use  as  a  bee  forage.  It  is  so 
easily  grown  and  flowers  so  freely  that  it  should  be 
popular  with  apiarists,  especially  those  who  own  or 
live  near  waste  land,  dry  and  stony  tracts  which 
they  could  sow  to  it.  For  such  places  it  has  an  ad- 
vantage over  the  many  weeds  which  generally  dispute 
possession  in  that  it  may  be  readily  controlled  by 
simple  cultivation.  It  generally  can  hold  its  own 
against  the  plant  populace  of  such  places. 

Caraway  (Carum  canti,  Linn.),  a  biennial  or  an 
annual  herb  of  the  natural  order  Umbelliferse.     Its 


74 


CULINARY    HERBS 


names,  both  popular  and  botanical,  are  supposed  to 
be  derived  from  Caria,  in  Asia  Minor,  where  the 
plant  is  believed  first  to  have  attracted  attention. 


^m€.. 

.*,   h^' 

^^^^m^^' 

'.J,- 

''  s^ 

\^p4 

^^m' 

^^^S^  w^ 

^^^-^i 

V 

4.         ,J/     ^ 

9ka     1^  \    ^ 

• 

^K'  W 

Caraway  for  Comfits  and  Birthday  Cakes 


From  very  early  ages  the  caraway  has  been  es- 
teemed by  cooks  and  doctors,  between  which  a 
friendly  rivalry  might  seem  to  exist,  each  vying  to 
give  it  prominence.  At  the  present  time  the  cooks 
seem  to  be  in  the  ascendancy;  the  seeds  or  their  oil 
are  rarely  used  in  modern  medicine,  except  to  dis- 
guise the  flavor  of  repulsive  drugs. 


CULINARY    HERBS  75 

Since  caraway  seeds  were  found  by  O'Heer  in 
the  debris  of  the  lake  habitations  of  Switzerland, 
the  fact  seems  well  established  that  the  plant  is  a 
native  of  Europe  and  the  probability  is  increased 
that  the  Carcum  of  Pliny  is  this  same  plant,  as  its 
use  by  Apicus  would  also  indicate.  It  is  mentioned 
in  the  twelfth-century  writings  as  grown  in  Mo- 
rocco, and  in  the  thirteenth  by  the  Arabs.  As  a 
spice,  its  use  in  England  seems  to  have  begun  at  the 
close  of  the  fourteenth  century.  From  its  Asiatic 
home  it  spread  first  with  Phoenician  commerce  to 
western  Europe,  whence  by  later  voyageurs  it  has 
been  carried  throughout  the  civilized  world.  So 
widely  has  it  been  distributed  that  the  traveler  may 
find  it  in  the  wilds  of  Iceland  and  Scandinavia,  the 
slopes  of  sunny  Spain,  the  steeps  of  the  Himalayas, 
the  veldt  of  southern  Africa,  the  bush  of  Australia, 
the  prairies  and  the  pampas  of  America. 

Caraway  is  largely  cultivated  in  Morocco,  and  is 
an  important  article  of  export  from  Russia,  Prussia, 
and  Holland.  It  has  developed  no  clearly  marked 
varieties ;  some  specimens,  however,  seem  to  be  more 
distinctly  annual  than  others,  though  attempts  to 
isolate  these  and  thus  secure  a  quick-maturing  va- 
riety seem  not  to  have  been  made. 

Description. — The  fleshy  root,  about  Yi  inch  in 
diameter,  is  yellowish  externally,  whitish  within, 
and  has  a  slight  carroty  taste.  From  it  a  rosette  of 
finely  pinnated  leaves  is  developed,  and  later  the 
sparsely  leaved,  channeled,  hollow,  branching  flower 
stem  which  rises  from  i8  to  30  inches  and  during 
early  summer  bears  umbels  of  little  white  flowers 


']6  CULINARY  HERBS 

followed  by  oblong,  pointed,  somewhat  curved,  light 
brown  aromatic  fruits — the  caraway  "seeds"  of  com- 
merce. These  retain  their  germinating  power  for 
about  three  years,  require  about  10,000  seeds  to 
make  an  ounce  and  fifteen  ounces  to  the  quart. 

Cultwation. — Frequently,  if  not  usually,  caraway 
is  sown  together  with  coriander  in  the  same  drills 
on  heavy  lands  during  May  or  early  June.  The 
coriander,  being  a  quick-maturing  plant,  may  be 
harvested  before  the  caraway  throws  up  a  flowering 
stem.  Thus  two  crops  may  be  secured  from  the 
same  land  in  the  same  time  occupied  by  the  caraway 
alone.  Ordinary  thinning  to  6  or  8  inches  between 
plants  is  done  when  the  seedlings  are  established. 
Other  requirements  of  the  crop  are  all  embraced  in 
the  practices  of  clean  cultivation. 

Harvest  occurs  in  July  of  the  year  following  the 
seeding.  The  plants  are  cut  about  12  inches  above 
ground  with  sickles,  spread  on  sheets  to  dry  for  a 
few  days,  and  later  beaten  with  a  light  flail.  After 
threshing,  the  seed  must  be  spread  thinly  and  turned 
daily  until  the  last  vestige  of  moisture  has  evapo- 
rated. From  400  to  800  pounds  is  the  usual  range 
of  yield. 

If  seed  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  plants  may  be 
secured  which  mature  earlier  than  the  main  crop. 
Thus  six  or  eight  weeks  may  be  saved  in  the  grow- 
ing season,  and  by  continuing  such  selection  a  quick- 
maturing  strain  may  be  secured  with  little  effort. 
This  would  also  obviate  the  trouble  of  keeping  seed 
from  one  year  to  the  next,  for  the  strain  would  be 
practically  a  winter  annual 


CULINARY   HERBS  ^J 

Uses. — Occasionally  the  leaves  and  young  shoots 
are  eaten  either  cooked  or  as  an  ingredient  in  salads. 
The  roots,  too,  have  been  esteemed  in  some 
countries,  even  more  highly  than  the  parsnip,  which, 
however,  largely  because  of  its  size,  has  supplanted 
it  for  this  purpose.  But  the  seeds  are  the  impor- 
tant part.  They  find  popular  use  in  bread,  cheese, 
liquors,  salads,  sauces,  soups,  candy,  and  especially 
in  seed  cakes,  cookies  and  comfits.  The  colorless  or 
pale  yellow  essential  oil  distilled  with  water  from 
the  seeds,  which  contain  between  5%  and  73^%  of 
it,  has  the  characteristic  flavor  and  odor  of  the  fruit. 
It  is  extensively  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
toilet  articles,  such  as  perfumery,  and  especially 
soaps. 

Catnip,  or  cat  mint  (Ncpcta  cataria,  Linn.),  a  pe- 
rennial herb  of  the  natural  order  Labiatse.  The  popu- 
lar name  is  in  allusion  to  the  attraction  the  plant  has 
for  cats.  They  not  only  eat  it,  but  rub  them- 
selves upon  it  purring  with  delight.  The  generic 
name  is  derived  from  the  Etrurian  city  Neptic,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  which  various  species  of  the  genus 
formerly  became  prominent. 

Like  several  of  its  relatives  catnip  is  a  well-known 
weed.  It  has  become  naturalized  in  America,  and 
is  most  frequently  observed  in  dry,  waste  places, 
especially  in  the  East,  though  it  is  also  often  found 
in  gardens  and  around  dwellings  throughout  the 
United  States  and  Canada. 

Description. — Its  erect,  square,  branching  stems, 
from  18  to  36  inches  tall,  bear  notched  oval  or  heart- 
shaped  leaves,  whitish  below,  and  during  late  sum- 


78 


CULINARY  HERBS 


mer  terminal  clusters  of  white  flowers  in  small 
heads,  far  apart  below,  but  crowded  close  above. 
The  fruits  are  small,  brown,  ovoid,  smooth  and  with 


Catnip,  Pussy's  Delight 


three   clearly   defined   angles.      An   ounce   contains 
about  3,400  seeds.    Viability  lasts  for  five  years. 
Cultivation.     Catnip  will  grow  with  the  most  or- 


CULINARY    HERBS  79 

dinary  attention  on  any  fairly  dry  soil.  The  seed 
need  only  be  sown  in  autumn  or  spring  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain  or  in  a  nursery  bed  for  subse- 
quent transplanting.  If  to  be  kept  in  a  garden  bed 
they  should  stand  i8  to  24  inches  apart  each  way. 
Nothing  is  needful  except  to  keep  down  weeds  in 
order  to  have  them  succeed  for  several  years  on  the 
same  spot. 

Uses. — The  most  important  use  of  the  plant  is 
as  a  bee  forage;  for  this  purpose  waste  places  are 
often  planted  to  catnip.  As  a  condiment  the  leaves 
were  formerly  in  popular  use,  especially  in  the  form 
of  sauces;  but  milder  flavors  are  now  more  highly 
esteemed.  Still,  the  French  use  catnip  to  a  con- 
siderable extent.  Like  many  of  its  relatives,  catnip 
was  a  popular  medicinal  remedy  for  many  fleshly 
ills ;  now  it  is  practically  relegated  to  domestic 
medicine.  Even  in  this  it  is  a  moribund  remedy  for 
infant  flatulence,  and  is  clung  to  only  by  unlettered 
nurses  of  a  passing  generation. 

Chervil  (Scandix  Cerefolium,  Linn.),  a  southern 
Europe  annual,  with  stems  about  18  inches  tall  and 
bearing  few  divided  leaves  composed  of  oval,  much- 
cut  leaflets.  The  small  white  flowers,  borne  in  um- 
bels, are  followed  by  long,  pointed,  black  seeds  with 
a  conspicuous  furrow  from  end  to  end.  These 
seeds,  which  retain  their  germinability  about  three 
years,  but  are  rather  difficult  to  keep,  may  be  sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  stay,  at  any  season,  about 
eight  weeks  before  a  crop  is  desired;  cultivation  is 
like  that  of  parsley.  During  summer  and  in 
warm   climates,    cool,    shady   situations    should   be 


80  CULINARY  HERBS 

chosen,  otherwise  any  situation  and  soil  are  suitable. 
The  leaves,  which  are  highly  aromatic,  are  used, 
especially  in  France  and  England,  for  seasoning 
and  for  mixed  salads.  Chervil  is  rarely  used  alone, 
but  is  the  chief  ingredient  in  what  the  French  call 
fines  herhes,  a  mixture  which  finds  its  way  into  a 
host  of  culinary  concoctions.  The  best  variety  is 
the  Curled,  which,  though  it  has  the  same  flavor 
as  the  plain,  is  a  prettier  garnish. 

Chives  {Allium  Schocnoprasum,  Linn.),  a  bulbous, 
onion-like  perennial  belonging  to  the  Liliaceae. 
Naturally  the  plants  form  thick  tufts  of  abundant, 
hollow,  grasslike  leaves  from  their  little  oval  bulbs 
and  mat  of  fibrous  roots.  The  short  flower  stems 
bear  terminal  clusters  of  generally  sterile  flowers. 
Hence  the  plants  are  propagated  by  planting  the 
individual  bulbs  or  by  division  of  clumps  in  early 
spring.  Frequently  chives  are  planted  in  flower 
borders  as  an  edging,  for  which  purpose  the  compact 
growth  and  dainty  flowers  particularly  recommend 
them.  They  should  not  be  allowed  to  grow  in  the 
same  place  more  than  three  years. 

Strictly  speaking,  chives  do  not  belong  with  the 
herbs,  but  their  leaves  are  so  frequently  used  in- 
stead of  onions  for  flavoring  salads,  stews  and  other 
dishes,  and  reference  has  been  so  often  made  to 
them  in  these  pages,  that  a  brief  description  has 
been  included.  For  market  the  clumps  are  cut  in 
squares  and  the  whole  plant  sold.  Treated  in  this 
way  the  greengrocers  can  keep  them  in  good  condi- 
tion by  watering  until  sold.  For  use  the  leaves  are 
cut  with  shears  close  to  the  ground.     If  allowed  to 


CULINARY  HERBS  8l 

Stand  in  the  garden,  cuttings  may  be  made  at  in- 
tervals of  two  or  three  weeks  all  through  the  season. 

Clary  {Salvia  sclarea,  Linn,),  a  perennial  herb  of 
the  natural  order  Labiatse.  The  popular  name  is  a 
corruption  of  the  specific.  In  the  discussion  on 
sage  will  be  found  the  significance  of  the  generic 
name.  Syria  is  said  to  be  the  original  home  of 
clary,  but  Italy  is  also  mentioned.  The  presump- 
tion is  in  favor  of  the  former  country,  as  it  is  the 
older,  and  the  plant  was  probably  carried  westward 
from  it  by  soldiers  or  merchants.  In  England  clary 
was  known  prior  to  1538,  when  Turner  published 
his  garden  lore,  but  in  America,  except  in  foreigners' 
gardens,  it  is  rarely  seen.  It  has  been  listed  in 
seedsmen's  catalogs  since  1806. 

Description. — The  large,  very  broad,  oblong,  ob- 
tuse, toothed,  woolly  haired,  radical  leaves  are  gray- 
ish green  and  somewhat  rumpled  like  those  of  Savoy 
cabbage.  From  among  them  rise  the  2-foot  tall, 
square,  branching,  sparsely  leaved  stems,  which  dur- 
ing the  second  year  bear  small  clusters  of  lilac  or 
white  showy  flowers  in  long  spikes.  The  smooth 
brown  or  marbled  shining  seeds  retain  their  ger- 
minating power  for  three  years. 

Cultivation. — The  plants  thrive  in  any  well- 
drained  soil.  Seed  may  be  sown  during  March  in 
drills  18  inches  apart  where  the  plants  are  to  remain 
or  in  a  seedbed  for  transplanting  18  inches  asunder 
in  May.  Clean  cultivation  is  needed  throughout  the 
summer  until  the  plants  have  full  possession  of  the 
ground.  In  August  the  leaves  may  be  gathered, 
and  if  this  harvest  be  judiciously  done  the  produc- 


82 


CULINARY  HERBS 


tion  of  foliage  should  continue  until  midsummer 
of  the  second  year,  when  the  plants  will  probably 
insist  upon  flowering.     After  this  it  is  best  to  rely 

upon  new  plants  for  sup- 
plies of  leaves,  the  old 
plants  being  pulled. 

Uses. — In  America,  the 
leaves  are  little  used  in 
cookery,  and  even  in 
Europe  they  seem  to  be 
less  popular  than  form- 
erly, sage  having  taken 
their  place.  Wine  is  some- 
times made  from  the 
plant  when  in  flower.  As 
an  ornamental,  clary  is 
worth  a  place  in  the  hardy 
flower  border. 

Coriander  ( Coriandriim 
sativuffi,  Linn.),  ''a  plant 
of  little  beauty  and  of 
easiest  culture,"  is  a  hardy 
annual  herb  of  the  natural  order  Umbelliferse.  The 
popular  name  is  derived  from  the  generic,  which 
comes  from  the  ancient  Greek  Koris,  a  kind  of  bug, 
in  allusion  to  the  disagreeable  odor  of  the  foliage 
and  other  green  parts.  The  specific  name  refers  to  its 
cultivation  in  gardens.  Hence  the  scientific  name  de- 
clares it  to  be  the  cultivated  buggy-smelling  plant. 

Coriander  has  been  cultivated  from  such  ancient 
times  that  its  land  of  nativity  is  unknown,  though 
it  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  southern  Europe  and  of 


Coriander,    for   Old-Fashioned 
Candies 


CULINARY  HERBS  83 

China.  It  has  been  used  in  cookery  and  of  course, 
too,  in  medicine ;  for,  according  to  ancient  reasoning, 
anything  with  so  pronounced  and  unpleasant  an 
odor  must  necessarily  possess  powerful  curative  or 
preventive  attributes !  Its  seeds  have  been  found  in 
Egyptian  tombs  of  the  21st  dynasty.  Many  cen- 
turies later  Pliny  wrote  that  the  best  quality  of  seed 
still  came  to  Italy  from  Egypt.  Prior  to  the  Nor- 
man conquest  in  1066,  the  plant  was  well  known  in 
Great  Britain,  probably  having  been  taken  there  by 
the  early  Roman  conquerors.  Before  1670  it  was 
introduced  into  Massachusetts.  During  this  long 
period  of  cultivation  there  seems  to  be  no  record  or 
even  indication  of  varieties.  In  many  temperate 
and  tropical  countries  it  has  become  a  frequent  weed 
in  cultivated  fields. 

Description. — From  a  cluster  of  slightly  divided 
radical  leaves  branching  stems  rise  to  heights  of  2 
to  2^  feet.  Toward  their  summits  they  bear  much 
divided  leaves,  with  linear  segments  and  umbels  of 
small  whitish  flowers,  followed  by  pairs  of  united, 
hemispherical,  brownish-yellow,  deeply  furrowed 
"seeds,"  about  the  size  of  a  sweet  pea  seed.  These 
retain  their  vitality  for  .five  or  six  years.  The 
seeds  do  not  have  the  unpleasant  odor  of  the  plant, 
but  have  a  rather  agreeable  smell  and  a  moderately 
warm,  pungent  taste. 

Cultivation. — Coriander,  a  plant  of  the  easiest  cul- 
ture, does  best  in  a  rather  light,  warm,  friable  soil. 
In  Europe  it  is  often  sown  with  caraway,  which, 
being  a  biennial  and  producing  only  a  rosette  of 
leaves  at  the  surface  of  the  ground  the  first  year,  is 


84  CULINARY  HERBS 

not  injured  when  the  annual  coriander  is  cut.  The 
seed  is  often  sown  in  the  autumn,  though  spring 
sowing  is  perhaps  in  more  favor.  The  rows  are 
made  about  15  inches  apart,  the  seeds  dropped  i 
inch  asunder  and  3^  inch  deep  and  the  plantlets 
thinned  to  6  or  8  inches.  Since  the  plants  run  to 
seed  quickly,  they  must  be  watched  and  cut  early 
to  prevent  loss  and  consequent  seeding  of  the 
ground.  After  curing  in  the  shade  the  seed  is 
threshed  as  already  described  (see  page  28).  On 
favorable  land  the  yield  may  reach  or  even  exceed 
1,500  pounds  to  the  acre. 

Uses. — Some  writers  say  the  young  leaves  of  the 
plant  are  used  in  salads  and  for  seasoning  soups, 
dressings,  etc.  If  this  is  so,  I  can  only  remark  that 
there  is  no  accounting  for  tastes.  I  am  inclined 
to  think,  however,  that  these  writers  are  drawing 
upon  their  imagination  or  have  been  *'stufifed"  by 
people  who  take  pleasure  in  supplying  misinforma- 
tion. The  odor  is  such  as  to  suggest  the  flavor  of 
"buggy"  raspberries  we  sometimes  gather  in  the 
fence  rows.  Any  person  who  relishes  buggy  berries 
may  perhaps  enjoy  coriander  salad  or  soup. 

Only  the  seed  is  of  commercial  importance.  It  is 
used  largely  in  making  comfits  and  other  kinds 
of  confectionery,  for  adding  to  bread,  and,  especially 
in  the  East,  as  an  ingredient  in  curry  powder  and 
other  condiments.  In  medicine  its  chief  use  now 
is  to  disguise  the  taste  of  disagreeable  drugs.  Dis- 
tillers use  it  for  flavoring  various  kinds  of  liquors. 

Cumin  (Ciiminum  Cyminum,  Linn.),  a  low-grow- 


CULINARY  HERBS  85 

ing  annual  herb  of  the  Nile  valley,  but  cultivated  in 
the  Mediterranean  region,  Arabia,  Egypt,  Morocco, 
India,  China,  and  Palestine  from  very  early  times, 
(See  Isaiah  xviii,  25-27  and  Matthew  xxiii,  23.) 
Pliny  is  said  to  have  considered  it  the  best  appetizer 
of  all  condiments.  During  the  middle  ages  it  was 
in  very  common  use.  All  the  old  herbals  of  the 
sixteenth  and  the  seventeenth  centuries  figure  and 
describe  and  extol  it.  In  Europe  it  is  extensively 
cultivated  in  Malta  and  Sicily,  and  will  mature  seed 
as  far  north  as  Norway;  in  America,  today,  the 
seed  is  cataloged  by  some  seedsmen,  but  very  little 
is  grown. 

Description. — The  plant  is  very  diminutive,  rarely 
exceeding  a  height  of  6  inches.  Its  stems,  which 
branch  freely  from  the  base,  bear  mere  linear  leaves 
and  small  lilac  flowers,  in  little  umbels  of  10  to  20 
blossoms  each.  The  six-ribbed,  elongated  "seeds" 
in  appearance  resemble  caraway  seeds,  but  are 
straighter,  lighter  and  larger,  and  in  formation  are 
like  the  double  seeds  of  coriander,  convex  on  one 
side  and  concave  on  the  other.  They  bear  long 
hairs,  which  fold  up  when  the  seed  is  dry. 

After  the  seed  has  been  kept  for  two  years  it  be- 
gins to  lose  its  germinating  power,  but  will  sprout 
reasonably  well  when  three  years  old.  It  is  char- 
acterized by  a  peculiar,  strong  aromatic  odor,  and  a 
hot  taste. 

Culture. — As  soon  as  the  ground  has  become 
warm  the  seed  is  sown  in  drills  about  15  inches 
apart  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  Except  for 
keeping   down    the   weeds   no   further   attention    is 


86 


CULINARY  HERBS 


Dill,  of  Pickle  Fame 


CULINARY  HERBS  8/ 

necessary.  The  plants  mature  in  about  two  months, 
when  the  stems  are  cut  and  dried  in  the  shade.  (See 
page  28.)  The  seeds  are  used  in  India  as  an  in- 
gredient in  curry  powder,  in  France  for  flavoring 
pickles,  pastry  and  soups. 

Dill  {Anethum  graveolcns,  Linn.),  a  hardy  annual, 
native  of  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Black  Sea  re- 
gions, smaller  than  common  fennel,  which  it  some- 
what resembles  both  in  appearance  and  in  the  flavor 
of  the  green  parts,  which  are,  however,  less  agree- 
able. 

In  ancient  times  it  was  grown  In  Palestine.  The 
word  translated,  **anise"  in  Matthew  xxiii,  23,  is  said 
to  have  been  ''dill"  in  the  original  Greek.  It  was 
well  known  in  Pliny's  time,  and  is  often  discussed 
by  writers  in  the  middle  ages.  According  to  Ameri- 
can writings,  it  has  been  grown  in  this  country  for 
more  than  100  years  and  has  become  spontaneous 
in  many  places. 

■  Description. — Ordinarily  the  plants  grow  2  to  2^ 
feet  tall.  The  glaucous,  smooth,  hollow,  branching 
stems  bear  very  threadlike  leaves  and  in  midsummer 
compound  umbels  with  numerous  yellow  flowers, 
whose  small  petals  are  rolled  inward.  Very  flat, 
pungent,  bitter  seeds  are  freely  produced,  and  un- 
less gathered  early  are  sure  to  stock  the  garden 
with  volunteer  seedlings  for  the  following  year. 
Under  fair  storage  conditions,  the  seeds  continue 
viable  for  three  years.  They  are  rather  light;  a 
quart  of  them  weighs  about  ii  ounces,  and  an  ounce 
is  said  to  contain  over  25,000  seeds. 


88  CULINARY  HERBS 

Cultivation, — Where  dill  has  not  already  been 
grown  seed  may  be  sown  in  early  spring,  preferably 
in  a  warm  sandy  soil,  where  the  plants  are  to  re- 
main. Any  well-drained  soil  wiH  do.  The  drills 
should  be  i  foot  apart,  the  seeds  scattered  thinly 
and  covered  very  shallow;  a  bed  12  feet  square 
should  supply  abundance  of  seed  foi  any  ordinary 
family.  To  sow  this  area  ^  to  ^  ounce  of  seed  is 
ample.  For  field  use  the  rows  may  be  15  inches 
apart  and  the  seed  sown  more  thinly.  It  should 
not  be  covered  much  more  than  ^  inch.  Some 
growers  favor  fall  sowing,  because  they  claim  the 
seed  is  more  likely  to  germinate  than  in  the  spring,  and 
also  to  produce  better  plants  than  spring-sown  seed. 

At  all  times  the  plants  must  be  kept  free  from 
weeds  and  the  soil  loose  and  open.  When  three  or 
four  weeks  old  the  seedlings  are  thinned  to  9 
inches,  or  even  a  foot  apart.  As  soon  as  the  seed  is 
ripe,  shortly  after  midsummer,  it  must  be  gathered 
with  the  least  possible  shaking  and  handling,  so  as 
to  prevent  loss.  It  is  well  to  place  the  stems  as 
cut  directly  in  a  tight-bottomed  cart  or  a  wheel- 
barrow, with  a  canvas  receptacle  for  the  purpose, 
and  to  haul  direct  to  the  shade  where  drying  is  to 
occur.  A  good  place  for  this  is  a  barn,  upon  the 
floor  of  which  a  large  canvas  sheet  is  spread,  and 
where  a  free  circulation  of  air  can  be  secured. 
(See  page  28.) 

Uses. — The  French  use  dill  for  flavoring  preserves, 
cakes  and  pastry.  For  these  purposes  it  is  of  too 
strong  and  pronounced  a  character  to  be  relished  by 
American    palates.     The    seeds    perhaps    more    often 


CULINARY  HERBS  89 

appear  in  soups,  sauces  and  stews,  but  even  here 
they  are  relished  more  by  our  European  residents 
than  by  native  Americans.  Probably  they  are  most 
used  in  pickles,  especially  in  preserving  cucumbers 
according  to  German  recipes.  Thousands  of  bar- 
rels of  such  pickles  are  sold  annually,  more  especially  in 
the  larger  cities  and  to  the  poorer  people;  but  as 
this  pickle  is  procurable  at  all  delicatessen  stores,  it 
has  gained  great  popularity  among  even  the  well- 
to-do.  An  oil  is  distilled  from  the  seeds  and  used 
in  perfuming  soap.  The  young  leaves  are  said  to 
be  used  in  pickles,  soups  and  sauces,  and  even  in 
salads.  For  the  last  purpose  they  are  rather  strong 
to  suit  most  people,  and  for  the  others  the  seeds  are 
far  more  popular. 

Dill  vinegar  is  a  popular  household  condiment. 
It  is  made  by  soaking  the  seed  in  good  vinegar  for 
a  few  days  before  using.  The  quantity  of  ingredi- 
ents to  use  is  immaterial.  Only  a  certain  amount 
of  the  flavor  can  be  dissolved  by  the  vinegar,  and  as 
few  samples  of  vinegar  are  alike,  the  quantities  both 
to  mix  and  of  the  decoction  to  use  must  be  left  to 
the  housewife.  This  may  be  said,  however,  that 
after  one  lot  of  seed  has  been  treated  the  vinegar 
may  be  poured  off  and  the  seeds  steeped  a  second 
time  to  get  a  weaker  infusion.  The  two  infusions 
may  then  be  mixed  and  kept  in  a  dark  cupboard 
for  use  as  needed. 

Fennel  {Focnicidiim  officinale,  All.),  a  biennial  or 
perennial  herb,  generally  considered  a  native  of 
southern  Europe,  though  common  on  all  Mediter- 
ranean shores.     The  old  Latin  name  Foonkulum  is 


90 


CULINARY  HERBS 


derived  from  focnum  or  hay.  It  has  spread  with 
civilization,  especially  where  Italians  have  colonized, 
and  may  be  found  growing  wild  in  many  parts  of 
the  world,  upon 
dry  soils  near  the 
sea  coast  and  upon 
river  banks. 

It    seems    to    be 
partial      to      lime- 
stone    soils,     such 
as     the     chalky 
lands    of    England 
and  the  shelly  for- 
mation    of      Ber- 
muda.   In  this  latter  com- 
munity I  have  seen  it  thriv- 
ing upon  cliffs  where  there 
seemed  to  be  only  a  pinch 
of  soil,  and  where  the  rock 
was  so  dry  and  porous  that 
it  would  crumble  to  coarse 
dust  when  crushed  in  the 
hand.    The  plant  was  culti- 
vated    by      the      ancient 
Romans   for   its   aromatic 

fruits  and  succulent,  edible  shoots.  Whether  culti- 
vated in  northern  Europe  at  that  time  is  not  certain, 
but  it  is  frequently  mentioned  in  Anglo-Saxon  cook- 
ery prior  to  the  Norman  conquest.  Charlemagne 
ordered  its  culture  upon  the  imperial  farms.  At 
present  it  is  most  popular  in  Italy,  and  France.  In 
America  it  is  in  most  demand  among  French  and 


Sweet  Fennel 


CULINARY  HERBS  9I 

Italians.  Like  many  other  plants,  fennel  has  had 
a  highly  interesting  career  from  a  medical  point  of 
view.  But  it  no  longer  plays  even  a  *'small  part" 
in  the  drama.  Hints  as  to  its  history  may  be  found 
on  page  54. 

Description. — Common  garden  or  long,  sweet  fen- 
nel is  distinguished  from  its  wild  or  better  relative 
(F.  vulgar c)  by  having  much  stouter,  taller  (5  to 
6  feet)  tubular  and  larger  stems,  less  divided,  more 
glaucous  leaves.  But  a  still  more  striking  differ- 
ence is  seen  in  the  leaf  stalks  which  form  a  curved 
sheath  around  the  stem  even  as  far  up  as  the  base 
of  the  leaf  above.  Then,  too,  the  green  flowers  are 
borne  on  more  sturdy  pedicels  in  the  broader  um- 
bels, lastly  the  seeds  are  double  the  size  of  the  wild 
fennel  seeds,  ^  or  ^  inch  long.  They  are  convex 
on  one  side,  flat  on  the  other,  and  are  marked  by 
five  yellowish  ribs.  Though  a  French  writer  says 
the  seed  degenerates  ''promptly,"  and  recommends 
the  use  of  fresh  seed  annually,  it  will  not  be  wise  to 
throw  away  any  where  it  is  not  wanted  to  ger- 
minate, unless  it  is  over  four  years  old,  as  seed  as 
old  even  as  that  is  said  to  be  satisfactory  for 
planting. 

Cultivation. — In  usual  garden  practice  fennel  is 
propagated  by  seeds,  and  is  grown  as  an  annual 
instead  of  as  a  biennial  or  a  perennial.  The  plants 
will  flourish  in  almost  any  well-drained  soil,  but 
seem  to  prefer  light  loams  of  a  limy  nature.  It  is 
not  particular  as  to  exposure.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  in  nursery  beds  or  where  the  plants  are  to 
remain.     In  the  beds,  the  drills  may  be  6   inches 


92  CULINARY  HERBS 

apart,  and  not  more  than  1-3  inch  deep,  or  the 
seed  may  be  scattered  broadcast.  An  ounce  will 
be  enough  for  a  bed  10  feet  square.  When  the 
plants  are  about  3  inches  tall  they  should  be  trans- 
planted 15  or  18  inches  asunder  in  rows  2  to  2^ 
feet  apart.  Some  growers  sow  in  late  summer  and 
in  autumn  so  as  to  have  early  crops  the  following 
season ;  they  also  make  several  successional  sowings 
at  intervals  of  one  or  two  weeks,  in  order  to  supply 
the  demands  of  their  customers  for  fresh  fennel 
stalks  from  midsummer  to  December  or  even  later. 
The  plants  will  grow  more  or  less  in  very  cold,  that 
is,  not  actually  freezing  weather. 

If  sown  in  place,  the  rows  should  be  the  suggested 
2  to  2^  feet  apart,  and  the  pknts  thinned  several 
times  until  the  required  distance  is  reached.  Thin- 
nings may  be  used  for  culinary  purposes.  For  family 
use  half  an  ounce  of  seed,  if  fairly  fresh,  will  pro- 
duce an  ample  supply  of  plants,  and  for  several 
years,  either  from  the  established  roots  or  by  re- 
seeding.  Unless  seed  is  needed  for  household  or 
sowing  purposes,  the  flower  stems  should  be  cut  as 
soon  as  they  appear. 

Uses. — Fennel  is  considered  indispensable  in 
French  and  Italian  cookery.  The  young  plants  and 
the  tender  leaves  are  often  used  for  garnishes  and 
to  add  flavor  to  salads.  They  are  also  minced  and 
added  to  sauces  usually  served  with  puddings.  The 
tender  stems  and  the  leaves  are  employed  in  soups 
and  fish  sauces,  though  more  frequently  they  are 
eaten  raw  as  a  salad  with  or  without  dressing.  The 
famous  ''Carosella"  of  Naples  consists  of  the  stems 


CULINARY  HERBS  93 

cut  when  the  plant  is  about  to  bloom.  These  stems 
are  considered  a  great  delicacy  served  raw  with  the 
leaf  stalks  still  around  them.  Oil,  vinegar  and  pep- 
per are  eaten  with  them.  By  sowing  at  intervals 
of  a  week  or  lo  days  Italian  gardeners  manage  to 
have  a  supply  almost  all  the  year. 

The  seeds  are  used  in  cookery,  confectionery  and 
for  flavoring  liquors.  Oil  of  fennel,  a  pale  yellow 
liquid,  with  a  sweetish  aromatic  odor  and  flavor,  is 
distilled  with  water.  It  is  used  in  perfumery  and 
for  scenting  soaps.  A  pound  of  oil  is  the  usual 
yield  of  500  pounds  of  the  plant. 

Finocchio,  or  Florence  fennel  (F.  duke,  D.  C), 
deserves  special  mention  here.  It  appears  to  be  a 
native  of  Italy,  a  distinct  dwarf  annual,  very  thick- 
set herb.  The  stem  joints  are  so  close  together  and 
their  bases  so  swelled  as  to  suggest  malformation. 
Even  when  full  grown  and  producing  seed,  the  plant 
rarely  exceeds  2  feet.  The  large,  finely  cut,  light 
green  leaves  are  borne  on  very  broad,  pale  green 
or  almost  whitish  stalks,  which  overlap  at  their 
bases,  somewhat  like  celery,  but  much  more  swelled 
at  edible  maturity,  to  form  a  sort  of  head  or  irregular 
ball,  the  ''apple,"  as  it  is  called,  sometimes  as  large 
as  a  man's  fist.  The  seeds  are  a  peculiar  oblong, 
much  broader  than  long,  convex  on  one  side  and 
flat  on  the  other,  with  five  conspicuous  ribs. 

Cultivation  is  much  the  same  as  for  common  fen- 
nel, though  owing  to  the  dwarf  nature  of  the  plant 
the  rows  and  the  plants  may  be  closer  together. 
The  seedlings  should  be  5  or  6  inches  asunder.  They 
are  very  thirsty  things  and  require  water  frequently. 


94  CULINARY  HERBS 

When  the  "apple"  attains  the  size  of  an  Qgg,  earth 
may  be  drawn  up  slightly  to  the  base,  which  may  be 
about  half  covered;  cutting  may  begin  about  lo 
days  later.  Florence  fennel  is  generally  boiled  and 
served  with  either  a  butter  or  a  cream  dressing.  It 
suggests  celery  in  flavor,  but  is  sweeter  and  is  even 
more  pleasingly  fragrant.  In  Italy  it  is  one  of  the 
commonest  and  most  popular  of  vegetables.  In 
other  European  countries  it  is  also  well  known,  but 
in  America  its  cultivation  is  almost  confined  to  Ital- 
ian gardens  or  to  such  as  supply  Italian  demands 
in  the  large  cities.  In  New  York  it  is  commonly 
sold  by  greengrocers  and  pushcart  men  in  the  Italian 
sections. 

Fennel  Flower  (Nigella  sativa,  Linn.),  an  Asiatic 
annual,  belonging  to  the  Ranunculacese,  grown  to  a 
limited  extent  in  southern  Europe,  but  scarcely 
known  in  America.  Among  the  Romans  it  was  es- 
teemed in  cookery,  hence  one  of  its  common  names, 
Roman  coriander.  The  plant  has  a  rather  stiff, 
erect,  branching  stem,  bears  deeply  cut  grayish-green 
leaves  and  terminal  grayish-blue  flowers,  which'  pre- 
cede odd,  toothed,  seed  vessels  filled  with  small, 
triangular,  black,  highly  aromatic  seeds.  For  gar- 
den use  the  seed  is  sown  in  spring  after  the  ground 
gets  warm.  The  drills  may  be  15  to  18  inches  apart 
and  the  plants  thinned  to  10  or  12  inches  asunder. 
No  special  attention  is  necessary  until  midsummer, 
when  the  seed  ripens.  These  are  easily  threshed 
and  cleaned.  After  drying  they  should  be  stored 
in  sacks  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  They  are  used  just 
as  they  are  or  like  dill  in  cookery. 


CULINARY  HERBS  95 

Hoarhound,  or  horehound  (Marrubium  vulgare, 
Linn.),  a  perennial  plant  of  the  natural  order  La- 
biatae,  formerly  widely  esteemed  in  cookery  and 
medicine,  but  now  almost  out  of  use  except  for  mak- 
ing candy  which  some  people  still  eat  in  the  belief 
that  it  relieves  tickling  in  the  throat  due  to  cough- 
ing. In  many  parts  of  the  world  hoarhound  has 
become  naturalized  on  dry,  poor  soils,  and  is  even 
a  troublesome  weed  in  such  situations.  Bees  are 
very  partial  to  hoarhound  nectar,  and  make  a  pleas- 
ing honey  from  the  flowers  where  these  are  abun- 
dant. This  honey  has  been  almost  as  popular  as 
hoarhound  candy,  and  formerly  was  obtainable  at 
druggists.  Except  in  isolated  sections,  it  has  ceased 
to  be  sold  in  the  drug  stores.  The  generic  name 
Marnibium  is  derived  from  a  Hebrew  word  meaning 
bitter.  The  flavor  is  so  strong  and  lasting  that  the 
modern  palate  wonders  how  the  ancient  mouth 
could  stand  such  a  thing  in  cookery. 

The  numerous  branching,  erect  stems  and  the  al- 
most square,  toothed,  grayish-green  leaves  are 
covered  with  a  down  from  which  the  common  name 
hoarhound  is  derived.  The  white  flowers,  borne 
in  axillary  clusters  forming  whorls  and  spikes,  are 
followed  by  small,  brown,  oblong  seeds  pointed  at 
one  end.  These  may  be  sown  up  to  the  third  year 
after  ripening  with  the  expectation  that  they  will 
grow.  Spring  is  the  usual  time  for  sowing.  A  dry, 
poor  soil,  preferably  exposed  to  the  south,  should  be 
chosen.  The  plants  may  stand  12  to  15  inches 
apart.  After  once  becoming  established  no  further 
attention  need  be  given  except  to  prevent  seed  form- 


g6  CULINARY  HERBS 

ing,  thus  giving  the  plant  less  chance  to  become  a 
nuisance.  Often  the  clumps  may  be  divided  or  lay- 
ers or  cuttings  may  be  used  for  propagation.  No 
protection  need  be  given,  as  the  plants  are  hardy. 

An  old  author  gives  the  following  recipe  for  hoar- 
hound  candy :  To  one  pint  of  a  strong  decoction 
of  the  leaves  and  stems  or  the  roots  add  8  or  lo 
pounds  of  sugar.  Boil  to  candy  height  and  pour 
into  molds  or  small  paper  cases  previously  well 
dusted  with  finely  powdered  lump  sugar,  or  pour  on 
dusted  marble  slabs  and  cut  in  squares. 

Hyssop  (Hyssopus  officinalis,  Linn.),  a  perennial 
evergreen  undershrub  of  the  Labiatae,  native  of  the 
Mediterranean  region.  Though  well  known  in  ancient 
times,  this  plant  is  probably  not  the  one  known  as  hys- 
sop in  Biblical  writings.  According  to  the  Stand- 
ard Dictionary  the  Biblical  "hyssop"  is  ''an  uniden- 
tified plant  .  .  .  thought  by  some  to  have  been 
a  species  of  marjoram  (Origanum  maru) ;  by  others, 
the  caper-bush  (Capparis  spinosa) ;  and  by  the  author 
of  the  'History  of  Bible  Plants,'  to  have  been  the  name 
of  any  common  article  in  the  form  of  a  brush  or  a 
broom."  In  ancient  and  medieval  times  hyssop  was 
grown  for  its  fancied  medicinal  qualities,  for  ornament 
and  for  cookery.  Except  for  ornament,  it  is  now  very 
little  cultivated.  Occasionally  it  is  found  grov^ing 
wild  in  other  than  Mediterranean  countries. 

Description. — The  smooth,  simple  stems,  which  grow 
about  2  feet  tall,  bear  lanceolate-linear,  entire  leaves  and 
small  clusters  of  usually  blue,  though  sometimes  pink 
or  white  flowers,  crowded  in  terminal  spikes.  The 
small,  brown,  glistening  three-angled  seeds,  which  have 


CULINARY  HERBS  97 

a  little  white  hilum  near  their  apices,  retain  their 
viability  three  years.  Leaves,  stems  and  flowers 
possess  a  highly  aromatic  odor  and  a  hot,  bitter  flavor. 

Cultivation. — Hyssop  succeeds  best  in  rather  warm, 
limy  soil.  It  may  be  readily  propagated  by  division, 
cuttings,  and  seed.  In  cold  climates  the  last  way  is  the 
most  common.  Seed  is  sown  in  .early  spring,  either  in 
a  cold  frame  or  in  the  open  ground,  and  the  seedlings 
transplanted  in  early  summer.  Even  where  the  plants 
survive  the  winters,  it  is  advisable  to  renew  them  every 
three  or  four  years.  When  grown  in  too  rich  soil, 
the  growth  will  be  very  lush  and  will  lack  aroma. 
Plants  should  stand  not  closer  than  6  inches  in  the 
rows,  which  should  be  at  least  i8  inches  apart.  They 
do  best  in  partial  shade. 

Uses. — Hyssop  has  almost  entirely  disappeared  from 
culinary  practice  because  it  is  too  strong-flavored. 
Its  tender  leaves  and  shoots  are,  however,  occa- 
sionally added  to  salads,  to  supply  a  bitter  taste. 
The  colorless  oil  distilled  from  the  leaves  has  a 
peculiar  odor  and  an  acrid,  camphorescent  taste. 
Upon  contact  with  the  air  it  turns  yellow  and 
changes  to  a  resin.  From  400  to  500  pounds  of  the 
fresh  plant  yield  a  pound  of  oil.  The  oil  is  used  to 
some  extent  in  the  preparation  of  toilet  articles. 

Lavender,  (Lavcndula  vera,  D.  C. ;  L.  Angustifolia, 
Moench. ;  L.  spica,  Linn.),  a  half-hardy  perennial  un- 
dershrub,  native  of  dry,  calcareous  uplands  in  south- 
ern Europe.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  Latin 
word  Lavo,  to  wash,  a  distillation  of  the  flowers  being 
anciently  used  in  perfuming  water  for  washing  the 
body.    The  plant  forms  a  compact  clump  2  to  2^  feet 


98  CULINARY  HERBS 

tall,  has  numerous  erect  stems,  bearing  small,  linear, 
gray  leaves,  above  which  the  slender,  square,  flower 
stems  arise.  The  small  violet-blue  flowers  are 
arranged  in  a  short,  terminal  spike,  and  are  fol- 
lowed by  little  brown,  oblong,  shiny  seeds,  with 
white  dots  at  the  ends,  attached  to  the  plant.  The 
seeds  remain  viable  for  about  five  years. 

Cultivation. — Lavender  succeeds  best  on  light,  hmy 
or  chalky  soil,  but  will  do  well  in  any  good  loam.  In 
gardens  it  is  usually  employed  as  an  edging  for 
flower  beds,  and  is  most  frequently  propagated  by 
division  or  cuttings,  seed  being  used  only  to  get  a 
start  where  plants  cannot  be  secured  in  the  other 
ways  mentioned.  In  cold  climates  the  plants  must 
either  be  protected  or  removed  to  a  greenhouse,  or 
at  least  a  cold  frame,  which  can  be  covered  in  severe 
weather.  The  seed  is  sown  indoors  during  March, 
and  if  crowding,  pricked  out  2  inches  asunder. 
When  the  ground  has  become  warm,  the  plants  are 
set  in  the  open  15  to  20  inches  asunder.  It  delights 
in  a  sunny  situation,  and  is  most  fragrant  on  poor 
soil.  Rich  soil  makes  the  plant  larger  but  the  flowers 
poorer  in  perfume. 

Uses. — The  plant  is  sometimes  grown  for  a  condi- 
ment and  an  addition  to  salads,  dressings,  etc.,  but 
its  chief  use  is  in  perfumery,  the  flowers  being 
gathered  and  either  dried  for  use  in  sachet  bags  or 
distilled  for  their  content  of  oil.  In  former  years 
no  girl  was  supposed  to  be  ready  for  marriage  until, 
with  her  own  hands,  she  had  made  her  own  linen 
and  stored  it  with  lavender.    And  in  some  sections 


CULINARY  HERBS  99 

the  lavender  is  still  used,  though  the  linen  is  now- 
adays purchased. 

In  southern  France  and  in  England  considerable 
areas  are  devoted  to  lavender  for  the  perfumery 
business.  The  flower  stems  are  cut  in  August,  cov- 
ered at  once  with  bast  matting  to  protect  them 
from  the  sun  and  taken  to  the  stills  to  obtain  the 
thin,  pale  yellow,  fragrant  oil.  Four-year-old  plants 
yield  the  greatest  amount  of  oil,  but  the  product 
is  greater  from  a-  two-year  plantation  than  from  an 
older  one,  the  plants  then  being  most  vigorous.  Two 
grades  of  oil  are  made,  the  best  being  used  for  lav- 
ender water,  the  poorer  for  soap  making.  In  a  good 
season  about  one  pound  of  oil  is  obtained  from  150 
to  200  pounds  of  the  cut  plants. 

Lovage  (Levisticnm  officinale,  Koch.),  a  perennial, 
native  of  the  Mediterranean  region.  The  large, 
dark-green,  shining  radical  leaves  are  usually 
divided  into  two  or  three  segments.  Toward  the 
top  the  thick,  hollow,  erect  stems  divide  to  form 
opposite,  whorled  branches  which  bear  umbels  of 
yellow  flowers,  followed  by  highly  aromatic,  hol- 
lowed fruits  ("seeds")  with  three  prominent  ribs. 
Propagation  is  by  division  or  by  seeds  not  over 
three  years  old.  In  late  summer  when  the  seed 
ripens,  it  is  sown  and  the  seedlings  transplanted 
either  in  the  fall  or  as  early  in  spring  as  possible 
to  their  permanent  places.  Rich,  moist  soil  is 
needed.  Root  division  is  performed  in  early  spring. 
With  cultivation  and  alternation  like  that  given  to 
Angelica,  the  plants  should  last  for  several  years. 


lOO  CULINARY  HERBS 

Formerly  lovage  was  used  for  a  great  variety  of 
purposes,  but  nowadays  it  is  restricted  almost 
wholly  to  confectionery,  the  young  stems  being 
handled  like  those  of  Angelica.  So  far  as  I  have 
been  able  to  learn,  the  leaf  stalks  and  stem  bases, 
which  were  formerly  blanched  like  celery,  are  no 
longer  used  in  this  way. 

Marigold  (Calendula  officinalis,  Linn.),  an  annual 
herb  of  the  natural  order  Compositae,  native  of 
southern  Europe.  Its  Latin  name,  suggestive  of  its 
flowering  habit,  signifies  blooming  through  the 
months.  Our  word  calendar  is  of  the  same  deriva- 
tion. Its  short  stems,  about  12  inches  tall,  branch 
near  their  bases,  bear  lanceolate,  oblong,  unpleas- 
antly scented  leaves,  and  showy  yellow  or  orange 
flowers  in  heads.  The  curved,  gray  seeds,  which  are 
rough,  wrinkled  and  somewhat  spiny,  retain  their 
germinating  power  for  about  three  years. 

Cultivation. — For  the  garden  the  seed  is  usually 
started  in  a  hotbed  during  March  or  April  and  the 
plants  pricked  out  in  flats  2  inches  apart  and  hard- 
ened off  in  the  usual  way.  When  the  weather  be- 
comes settled  they  are  set  a  foot  or  15  inches  apart 
in  rather  poor  soil,  preferably  light  and  sandy,  with 
sunny  exposure.  Often  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open 
and  the  seedlings  thinned  and  transplanted  when 
about  2  inches  tall. 

Uses. — The  flower  heads  are  sometimes  dried  and 
used  in  broths,  soups,  stews,  etc.,  but  the  flavor  is 
too  pronounced  for  American  palates.  One  gar- 
dener remarked  that  "only  a  few  plants  are  needed 
by  a  family."    I  think  that  two  would  produce  about 


CULINARY  HERBS  lOI 

twice  as  much  as  I  would  care  to  use  in  a  century. 
For  culinary  use  the  flowers  are  gathered  when  in 
full  bloom,  dried  in  the  shade  and  stored  in  glass 
jars.  The  fresh  flowers  have  often  been  used  to 
color  butter. 

The  marigold,  ''homely  forgotten  flower,  under 
the  rose's  bower,  plain  as  a  weed,"  to  quote  Bay- 
ard Taylor,  is  a  general  favorite  flowering  plant, 
especially  in  country  gardens.  It  is  so  easily  grown, 
is  so  free  a  bloomer,  and  under  ordinary  manage- 
ment continues  from  early  summer  until  even  hard 
frosts  arrive,  that  busy  farmers'  wives  and  daugh- 
ters love  it.  Then,  too,  it  is  one  of  the  old-fashioned 
flowers,  about  which  so  many  happy  thoughts  cling. 
What  more  beautiful  and  suggestive  lines  could  one 
wish  than  these : 

"The  marigold,  whose  courtier's  face 
Echoes  the  sun,  and  doth  unlace 
Her  at  his  rise,  at  his  full  stop 
Packs  up  and  shuts  her  gaudy  shop." 
—John  Cleveland 

"  On  Phillis  Walking  before  Sunrise" 

"Youth  !   Youth  !   how  buoyant  are  thy  hopes  !   They  turn 
Like  marigolds  toward  the  sunny  side," 

—Jean  In^elow 

"  The  Four  Bridges" 

Marjoram. — Two  species  of  marjoram  now  grown 
for  culinary  purposes  (several  others  were  formerly 
popular)  are  members  of  the  Labiatse  or  mint  fam- 
ily— pot  or  perennial  marjoram  (Origanum  vulgare, 
Linn.)  and  sweet  or  annual  (0.  Marjorana).  Really, 
both   plants   are   perennials,   but   sweet   marjoram, 


102 


CULINARY  HERBS 


because  of  its  liability  to  be  killed  by  frost,  is  so 
commonly  cultivated  in  cold  countries  as  an  annual 
that  it  has  acquired  this  name,  which  readily  dis- 
tinguishes it  from  its  hardy  relative.  Perennial 
marjoram  is  a  native  of  Europe,  but  has  become  nat- 
uralized in  many  cool  and 
even  cold  temperate  clim- 
ates. It  is  often  found 
wild  in  the  Atlantic  states 
in  the  borders  of  woods. 

The  general  name  origa- 
num, meaning  delight  of 
the  mountain,  is  derived 
from  two  Greek  words, 
or  OS,  mountain ;  and  ganos, 
joy,  some  of  the  species 
being  found  commonly 
upon  mountain  sides.  Un- 
der cultivation  it  has 
developed  a  few  varieties 
the  most  popular  of  which 
are  a  variegated  form  used 
for  ornamental  purposes, 
and  a  dwarf  variety  noted 
for  its  ability  to  come  true 
to  seed.  Both  varieties 
are  used  in  cookery.  The  perennial  species  seems  to 
have  had  the  longer  association  with  civilization;  at 
least  it  is  the  one  identified  in  the  writings  of  Pliny, 
Albertus  Magnus  and  the  English  herbalists  of  the 
middle  ages.  Annual  marjoram  is  thought  to  be  the 
species  considered  sacred  in  India  to  Vishnu  and  Siva. 


Sweet  Marjoram 


CULINARY  HERBS  IO3 

Description. — Perennial  marjoram  rises  even  2  feet 
high,  in  branchy  clumps,  bears  numerous  short- 
stemmed,  ovate  leaves  about  i  inch  long,  and  termi- 
nal clusters  or  short  spikes  of  little,  pale  lilac  or 
pink  blossoms  and  purple  bracts.  The  oval,  brown 
seeds  are  very  minute.  They  are,  however,  heavy 
for  their  size,  since  a  quart  of  them  weighs  about  24 
ounces.  I  am  told  that  an  ounce  contains  more  than 
340,000,  and  would  rather  believe  than  be  forced  to 
prove  it. 

Annual  marjoram  is  much  more  erect,  more  bush- 
like, has  smaller,  narrower  leaves,  whiter  flowers, 
green  bracts  and  larger,  but  lighter  seeds — only 
113,000  to  the  ounce  and  only  20  ounces  to  the 
quart ! 

Cultivation. — Perennial  marjoram  when  once  estab- 
lished may  be  readily  propagated  by  cuttings,  division 
or  layers,  but  it  is  so  easy  to  grow  from  seed  that  this 
method  is  usually  employed.  There  is  little  danger 
of  its  becoming  a  weed,  because  the  seedlings  are 
easily  destroyed  while  small.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  during  March  or  April  in  flats  or  beds  that 
can  be  protected  from  rain.  It  is  merely  dusted  on 
the  surface,  the  soil  being  pressed  down  slightly 
with  a  board  or  a  brick.  Until  the  seedlings  appear, 
the  bed  should  be  shaded  to  check  evaporation. 
When  the  plants  are  2  or  3  inches  tall  they  may  be 
transplanted  to  the  places  where  they  are  to  remain, 
as  they  are  not  so  easy  to  transplant  as  lettuce  and 
geraniums.  The  work  should  be  done  while  the 
plants  are  very  small,  and  larger  numbers  should  be 
set  than  will  ultimately  be  allowed  to  grow.    I  have 


I04  CULINARY  HERBS 

had  no  difficulty  in  transplanting,  but  some  people 
who  have  had  prefer  to  sow  the  seed  where  the 
plants  are  to  stand. 

If  to  be  used  for  edging,  the  dwarf  plants  may  be 
set  3  or  6  inches  apart;  the  larger  kinds  require  a 
foot  or  15  inches  in  which  to  develop.  In  field  cul- 
tivation the  greater  distance  is  the  more  desirable. 
From  the  very  start  the  plants  must  be  kept  free 
from  weeds  and  the  soil  loose  and  open.  Hand- 
work is  essential  until  they  become  established. 
The  plants  will  last  for  years. 

Annual  marjoram  is  managed  in  the  same  kind  of 
way  as  to  seeding  and  cultivation ;  but  as  the  plant 
is  tender,  fresh  sowings  must  be  made  annually. 
To  be  sure,  plants  may  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and 
used  for  making  cuttings  or  layers  towards  spring 
for  the  following  season's  beds.  As  annual  mar- 
joram is  somewhat  smaller  than  the  perennial  kind 
(except  the  dwarf  perennial  variety),  the  distances 
may  be  somewhat  less,  say  9  or  10  inches.  Annual 
marjoram  is  a  quick-growing  plant — so  quick,  in 
fact,  that  leaves  may  be  secured  within  six  or  eight 
weeks  of  sowing.  The  flowers  appear  in  10  to  12 
weeks,  and  the  seed  ripens  soon  after. 

When  it  is  desired  to  cure  the  leaves  for  winter 
use,  the  stems  should  be  cut  just  as  the  flowers 
begin  to  appear,  and  dried  in  the  usual  manner. 
(See  page  25.)  If  seed  is  wanted,  they  should  be 
cut  soon  after  the  flowers  fall  or  even  before  all 
have  fallen — when  the  scales  around  the  seeds  be- 
gin to  look  as  if  drying.  The  cut  stems  must  be 
dried  on  sheets  of  very  fine  weave,  to  prevent  loss 


CULINARY  HERBS  IO5 

of  seed.  When  the  leaves  are  thoroughly  dry  they 
must  be  thrashed  and  rubbed  before  being  placed  in 
sieves,  first  of  coarse,  and  then  of  finer  mesh. 

Uses. — The  leaves  and  the  flower  and  tender  stem 
tips  of  both  species  have  a  pleasant  odor,  and  are  used 
for  seasoning  soups,  stews,  dressings  and  sauces.  They 
are  specially  favored  in  France  and  Italy,  but  are  pop- 
ular also  in  England  and  America.  In  France  mar- 
joram is  cultivated  commercially  for  its  oil,  a  thin, 
light  yellow  or  greenish  liquid,  with  the  concen- 
trated odor  of  marjoram  and  peppermint.  It  has  a 
warm,  and  slightly  bitter  taste.  About  200  pounds 
of  stems  and  leaves  are  needed  to  get  a  pound  of 
oil.  Some  distillation  is  done  in  England,  where 
70  pounds  of  the  plant  yield  about  one  ounce  of  oil. 
This  oil  is  used  for  perfuming  toilet  articles,  espe- 
cially soap,  but  is  perhaps  less  popular  than  the 
essential  oil  of  thyme. 

Mint  (Mentha  viridis,  Linn.) — Spearmint,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Labiatse,  is  a  very  hardy  perennial,  native  to 
Mediterranean  countries.  Its  generic  name  is  derived 
from  the  mythological  origin  ascribed  to  it.  Poets  de- 
clared that  Proserpine  became  jealous  of  Cocytus's 
daughter,  Minthe,  whom  she  transformed  into  the 
plant.  The  specific  name  means  green,  hence  the 
common  name,  green  mint,  often  applied  to  it.  The 
old  Jewish  law  did  not  require  that  tithes  of  "mint, 
anise  and  cumin"  should  be  paid  in  to  the  treasury, 
but  the  Pharisees  paid  them  while  omitting  the 
weightier  matters,  justice,  mercy,  and  faith  (Mat- 
thew xxiii,  23).  From  this  and  many  other  refer- 
ences in  old  writings  it  is  evident  that  mint  has  been 


io6 


CULINARY  HERBS 


highly  esteemed  for  many  centuries.  In  the  seven- 
teenth century  John  Gerarde  wrote  concerning  it 
that  *'the  smelle  rejoyceth  the  heart  of  man."  In- 
deed, it  has  been  so  universally  esteemed  that  it  is 
found  wild  in  nearly  all  countries  to  which  civiliza- 


Mint,  Best  Friend  of  Roast  Lamb 


tion  has  extended.  It  has  been  known  as  an  escape 
from  American  gardens  for  about  200  years,  and  is 
sometimes  troublesome  as  a  weed  in  moist  soil. 

Description. — From  creeping  rootstocks  erect  square 
Stems  rise  to  a  height  of  about  2  feet,  and  near  their 


CULINARY  HERBS  10/ 

summits  bear  spreading  branches  with  very  short- 
stemmed,  acute-pointed,  lance-shaped,  wrinkled  leaves 
with  toothed  edges,  and  cylindrical  spikes  of  small  pink 
or  lilac  flowers,  followed  by  very  few,  roundish, 
minute,  brown  seeds. 

Cultivation. — The  plant  may  be  easily  propagated 
by  means  of  cuttings,  offsets  and  division  in  spring. 
They  may  be  expected  to  yield  somewhat  of  a  crop 
the  first  season,  but  much  more  the  second.  In  field 
culture  they  will  continue  profitable  for  several 
years,  provided  that  each  autumn  the  tops  are  cut 
off  near  the  ground  and  a  liberal  dressing  of 
manure,  compost  or  even  rich  soil  is  given.  In 
ordinary  garden  practice  it  is  well  also  to  observe 
this  plan,  but  usually  mint  is  there  allowed  to  shift 
for  itself,  along  with  the  horseradish  and  the  Jeru- 
salem artichoke  when  such  plants  are  grown.  So 
treated,  it  is  likely  to  give  trouble,  because,  having 
utilized  the  food  in  one  spot,  its  stems  seek  to 
migrate  to  better  quarters.  Hence,  if  the  idea  is  to 
neglect  the  plants,  a  corner  of  the  garden  should  be 
chosen  where  there  is  no  danger  of  their  becoming  a 
nuisance.  It  is  best  to  avoid  all  such  trouble  by 
renewing  or  changing  the  beds  every  5  or  6  years. 

Mint  will  grow  anywhere  but  does  best  in  a  moist, 
rich  loam  and  partial  shade.  If  in  a  sheltered  spot, 
it  will  start  earlier  in  the  spring  than  if  exposed. 
Upon  an  extensive  scale  the  drills  should  be  2  inches 
deep  and  12  to  15  inches  apart.  Bits  of  the  root- 
stocks  are  dropped  at  intervals  of  6  to  12  inches  in 
the  rows  and  covered  with  a  wheel  hoe.    For  a  new 


I08  CULINARY  HERBS 

plantation  the  rootstocks  should  be  secured  when 
the  stems  have  grown  2  or  3  inches  tall. 

For  forcing,  the  clumps  are  lifted  in  solid  masses, 
with  the  soil  attached,  and  placed  in  hotbeds  or  forc- 
ing house  benches.  Three  or  four  inches  of  moist 
soil  is  worked  in  among  and  over  them  and  watered 
freely  as  soon  as  growth  starts.  Cuttings  may  be 
made  in  two  or  three  Aveeks.  Often  mint  is  so  grown 
in  lettuce  and  violet  houses  both  upon  and  under 
the  benches.  During  winter  and  spring  there  is 
enough  of  a  demand  for  the  young  tender  stems 
and  leaves  to  make  the  plants  pay.  It  is  said  that 
the  returns  from  an  ordinary  3  x  6-foot  hotbed  sash 
should  be  $10  to  $15  for  the  winter.  For  drying,  the 
stems  should  be  cut  on  a  dry  day  when  the  plants 
are  approaching  full  bloom  and  after  the  dew  .has 
disappeared  in  the  morning.  They  should  be  spread 
out  very  thinly  in  the  shade  or  in  an  airy  shed. 
(See  page  25.)  If  cut  during  damp  weather,  there 
is  danger  of  the  leaves  turning  black. 

Uses. — In  both  the  green  and  the  dried  state  mint 
is  widely  used  in  Europe  for  flavoring  soups,  stews 
and  sauces  for  meats  of  unpronounced  character. 
Among  the  Germans  pulverized  mint  is  commonly 
upon  the  table  in  cruets  for  dusting  upon  gravies 
and  soups,  especially  pea  and  bean  purees 

In  England  and  America  the  most  universal  use 
of  mint  is  for  making  mint  sauce,  the  sauce  par  ex- 
cellence with  roast  spring  lamb.  Nothing  can  be 
simpler  than  to  mince  the  tender  tops  and  leaves 
very,  very  finely,  add  to  vinegar  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
Many  people  fancy  they  don't  like  roast  lamb.    The 


CULINARY  HERBS  IO9 

chances  are  that  they  have  never  eaten  it  with  well- 
made  mint  sauce.  In  recent  years  mint  jelly  has 
been  taking  the  place  of  the  sauce,  and  perhaps 
justly,  because  it  can  not  only  be  kept  indefinitely 
without  deterioration,  but  because  it  looks  and  is 
more  tempting.  It  may  be  made  by  steeping  mint 
leaves  in  apple  jelly  or  in  one  of  the  various  kinds 
of  commercial  gelatins  so  popular  for  making  cold 
fruit  puddings.  The  jelly  should  be  a  delicate  shade 
of  green.  Of  course,  before  pouring  into  the  jelly 
glasses,  the  liquid  is  strained  through  a  jelly  bag  to 
remove  all  particles  of  mint.  A  handful  of  leaves 
should  color  and  flavor  four  to  six  glasses  full. 

Parsley  (Carum  Pctroselimim,  Linn.),  a  hardy  bien- 
nial herb  of  the  natural  order  Umbelliferse,  native 
to  Mediterranean  shores,  and  cultivated  for  at  least 
2,000  years.  The  specific  name  is  derived  from  the 
habitat  of  the  plant,  which  naturally  grows  among 
rocks,  the  Greek  word  for  which  is  petros.  Many  of 
the  ancient  writings  contain  references  to  it,  and 
some  give  directions  for  its  cultivation.  The  writ- 
ings of  the  old  herbalists  of  the  15th  century  show 
that  in  their  times  it  had  already  developed  several 
well-defined  forms  and  numerous  varieties,  always 
a  sure  sign  that  a  plant  is  popular.  Throughout  the 
world  today  it  is  unquestionably  the  most  widely  grown 
of  all  garden  herbs,  and  has  the  largest  number  of  varie- 
ties. In  moist,  moderately  cool  climates,  it  may  be  found 
wild  as  a  weed,  but  nowhere  has  it  become  a  pest. 

"  Ah !   the  green  parsley,  the  thriving  tufts  of  dill ; 
These  again  shall  rise,  shall  live  the  coming  year." 

— Moschu^ 


no 


CULINARY  HERBS 


Descrip Hon. ^-Lik-Q  most  biennials,  parsley  develops 
only  a  rosette  of  leaves  during  the  first  year.  These 
leaves  are  dark  green,  long  stalked  and  divided  two 
or  three  times  into  ovate,  wedge-shaped  segments, 
and  each   division   either  entire,   as   in  parsnip,  or 


Curled  Parsley 


more  or  less  finely  cut  or  "curled."  During  the 
second  season  the  erect,  branched,  channeled  flower 
stems  rise  2  feet  or  more  high,  and  at  their  extremi- 
ties bear  umbels  of  little  greenish  flowers.  The 
fruits  or  ''seeds"  are  light  brown  or  gray,  convex 
on  one  side  and  flat  on  the  other  two,  the  convex 


CULINARY  HERBS  III 

side  marked  with  fine  ribs.  They  retain  their  ger- 
minating power  for  three  years.  An  interesting  fact, 
observed  by  Palladius  in  210  A.  D.,  is  that  old  seed 
germinates  more  freely  than  freshly  gathered  seed. 

Cultivation. — Parsley  is  so  easily  grown  that  no  gar- 
den, and  indeed  no  household,  need  be  without  it. 
After  once  passing  the  infant  stage  no  difficulty  need 
be  experienced.  It  will  thrive  in  any  ordinary  soil 
and  will  do  well  in  a  window  box  with  only  a  mod- 
erate amount  of  light,  and  that  not  even  direct  sun- 
shine. Gardeners  often  grow  it  beneath  benches  in 
greenhouses,  where  it  gets  only  small  amounts  of 
light.    No  one  need  hesitate  to  plant  it. 

The  seed  is  very  slow  in  germinating,  often  requir- 
ing four  to  six  weeks  unless  soaked  before  sowing. 
A  full  day's  soaking  in  tepid  water  is  none  too  long 
to  wake  up  the  germs.  The  drills  may  be  made 
in  a  cold  frame  during  March  or  in  the  open  ground 
during  April. 

It  is  essential  that  parsley  be  sown  very  early  in 
order  to  germinate  at  all.  If  sown  late,  it  may 
possibly  not  get  enough  moisture  to  sprout,  and  if 
so  it  will  fail  completely.  When  sown  in  cold 
frames  or  beds  for  transplanting,  the  rows  may  be 
only  3  or  4  inches  apart,  though  it  is  perhaps  better, 
when  such  distances  are  chosen,  to  sow  each  alter- 
nate row  to  forcing  radishes,  which  will  have  been 
marketed  by  the  time  the  parsley  seedlings  appear. 
In  the  open  ground  the  drills  should  be  12  to  15 
inches  apart,  and  the  seed  planted  somewhat  deeper 
and  farther  apart  than  in  the  presumably  better- 


112  CULINARY    HERBS 

prepared  seedbed  or  cold  frame.  One  inch  between 
seeds  is  none  too  little. 

In  field  culture  and  at  the  distances  mentioned 
six  or  seven  pounds  of  seed  will  be  needed  for  the 
acre.  For  cultivation  on  a  smaller  scale  an  ounce 
may  be  found  sufficient  for  50  to  100  feet  of  drill. 
This  quantity  should  be  enough  for  any  ordinary- 
sized  family.  In  all  open  ground  culture  the  radish 
is  the  parsley's  best  friend,  because  it  not  only  marks 
the  rows,  and  thus  helps  early  cultivation,  but  the 
radishes  break,  loosen  and  shade  the  soil  and  thus 
aid  the  parsley  plants. 

When  the  first  thinning  is  done  during  May,  the 
parsley  plants  may  be  allowed  to  stand  2  inches 
asunder.  When  they  begin  to  crowd  at  this  dis- 
tance each  second  plant  may  be  removed  and  sold. 
Four  to  six  little  plants  make  a  bunch.  The  roots 
are  left  on.  This  thinning  will  not  only  aid  the 
remaining  plants,  but  should  bring  enough  revenue 
to  pay  the  cost,  perhaps  even  a  little  more.  The 
first  cutting  of  leaves  from  plants  of  field-sown  seed 
should  be  ready  by  midsummer,  but  as  noted  below 
it  is  usually  best  to  practice  the  method  that  will 
hasten  maturity  and  thus  catch  the  best  price.  A 
"bunch"  is  about  the  amount  that  can  be  grasped 
between  the  thumb  and  the  first  finger,  10  to  15 
stalks. 

It  is  usual  to  divide  the  field  into  three  parts  so  as 
to  have  a  succession  of  cuttings.  About  three  weeks 
are  required  for  a  new  crop  of  leaves  to  grow  and 
mature  after  the  plants  have  been  cut.  Larger 
yields  can  be  secured  by  cutting  only  the  fully  ma- 


CULINARY    HERBS  II3 

tured  leaves,  allowing  the  others  to  remain  and 
develop  for  later  cuttings.  Three  or  four  times  as 
much  can  be  gathered  from  a  given  area  in  this 
way.  All  plain  leaves  of  such  plants  injure  the  ap- 
pearance and  reduce  the  price  of  the  bunches  when 
offered  for  sale. 

If  protected  from  frost,  the  plants  will  yield  all 
winter.  They  may  be  easily  transplanted  in  cold 
frames.  These  should  be  placed  in  some  warm,  shel- 
tered spot  and  the  plants  set  in  them  4  by  6  inches. 
Mats  or  shutters  will  be  needed  in  only  the  coldest 
weather.  Half  a  dozen  to  a  dozen  stalks  make  the 
usual  bunch  and  retail  for  2  or  3  cents. 

In  the  home  garden,  parsley  may  be  sown  as  an 
edging  for  flower  beds  and  borders.  For  such  pur- 
pose it  is  best  to  sow  the  seed  thickly  during  late 
October  or  November  in  double  rows  close  together, 
say  3  or  4  inches.  Sown  at  that  time,  the  plants 
may  be  expected  to  appear  earlier  than  if  spring 
sown  and  to  form  a  ribbon  of  verdure  which  will 
remain  green  not  only  all  the  growing  season,  but 
well  into  winter  if  desired.  It  is  best,  however, 
to  dig  them  up  in  the  fall  and  resow  for  the  year 
succeeding. 

For  window  culture,  all  that  Is  needed  is  a  box 
filled  with  rich  soil.  The  roots  may  be  dug  in  the 
fall  and  planted  in  the  box.  A  sunny  window  is 
best,  but  any  window  will  do.  If  space  is  at  a  pre- 
mium, a  nail  keg  may  be  made  to  yield  a  large 
amount  of  leaves.  Not  only  may  the  tops  be  filled 
with  plants,  but  the  sides  also.  Holes  should  be 
bored   in   the  staves  about  4  inches   apart.      (See 


114  CULINARY    HERBS 

illustration,  page  2.)  A  layer  of  earth  is  placed 
in  the  bottom  as  deep  as  the  lowest  tier  of  holes. 
Then  roots  are  pushed  through  these  holes  and  a 
second  layer  of  earth  put  in.  The  process  is  repeated 
till  the  keg  is  full.  Then  plants  are  set  on  the  top. 
As  the  keg  is  being  filled  the  earth  should  be  packed 
very  firmly,  both  around  the  plants  and  in  the  keg. 
When  full  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly  soaked  and 
allowed  to  drain  before  being  taken  to  the  window. 
To  insure  a  supply  of  water  for  all  the  plants,  a 
short  piece  of  pipe  should  be  placed  in  the  center 
of  the  keg  so  as  to  reach  about  half  way  toward  the 
bottom.  This  will  enable  water  to  reach  the  plants 
placed  in  the  lower  tiers  of  holes.  If  the  leaves  look 
yellow  at  any  time,  they  may  need  water  or  a  little 
manure  water. 

As  parsley  is  grown  for  its  leaves,  it  can  scarcely 
be  over  fertilized.  Like  cabbage,  but,  of  course,  upon 
a  smaller  scale,  it  is  a  gross  feeder.  It  demands  that 
plenty  of  nitrogenous  food  be  in  the  soil.  That  is, 
the  soil  should  be  well  supplied  with  humus,  pref- 
erably derived  from  decaying  leguminous  crops  or 
from  stable  manure.  A  favorite  commercial  ferti- 
lizer for  parsley  consists  of  3  per  cent  nitrogen,  8 
per  cent  potash  and  9  per  cent  phosphoric  acid  ap- 
plied in  the  drills  at  the  rate  of  600  to  900  pounds 
to  the  acre  in  two  or  three  applications — especially 
the  nitrogen,  to  supply  which  nitrate  of  soda  is  the 
most  popular  material. 

A  common  practice  among  market  gardeners  in 
the  neighborhood  of  New  York  has  been  to  sow  the 
seed  in  their  cold  frames  between  rows  of  lettuce 


CULINARY    HERBS  II5 

transplanted  during  March  or  early  April.  The  let- 
tuce is  cut  in  May,  by  which  time  the  parsley  is 
getting  up.  When  grown  by  this  plan  the  crop 
may  be  secured  four  or  five  weeks  earlier  than  if  the 
seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The  first  cutting 
may  be  made  during  June.  After  this  first  cutting 
has  been  made  the  market  usually  becomes  over- 
stocked and  the  price  falls,  so  many  growers  do  not 
cut  again  until  early  September  when  they  cut  and 
destroy  the  leaves  preparatory  to  securing  an  au- 
tumn and  winter  supply. 

When  the  weather  becomes  cool  and  when  the 
plants  have  developed  a  new  and  sturdy  rosette 
of  leaves,  they  are  transplanted  in  shallow  trenches 
either  in  cold  frames,  in  cool  greenhouses  (lettuce 
and  violet  houses),  under  the  benches  of  green- 
houses, or,  in  fact,  any  convenient  place  that  is  not 
likely  to  prove  satisfactory  for  growing  plants  that 
require  more  heat  and  light. 

This  method,  it  must  be  said,  is  not  now  as  popu- 
lar near  the  large  cities  as  before  the  development 
of  the  great  trucking  fields  in  the  Atlantic  coast 
states;  but  it  is  a  thoroughly  practical  plan  and 
well  worth  practicing  in  the  neighborhood  of  smaller 
cities  and  towns  not  adequately  supplied  with  this 
garnishing  and  flavoring  herb. 

A  fair  return  from  a  cold  frame  to  which  the 
plants  have  been  transplanted  ranges  from  $3  to  $7 
during  the  winter  months.  Since  many  sashes  are 
stored  during  this  season,  such  a  possible  return 
deserves  to  be  considered.  The  total  annual  yield 
from  an  acre  by  this  method  may  vary  from  $500  to 


Il6  CULINARY    HERBS 

$800  or  even  more — gross.  By  the  ordinary  field 
method  from  $150  to  $300  is  the  usual  range.  In- 
stead of  throwing  away  the  leaves  cut  in  Septem- 
ber, it  should  be  profitable  to  dry  these  leaves  and 
sell  them  in  tins  or  jars  for  flavoring. 

When  it  is  desired  to  supply  the  demand  for 
American  seed,  which  is  preferred  to  European,  the 
plants  may  be  managed  in  any  of  the  ways  already 
mentioned,  either  allowed  to  remain  in  the  field  or 
transplanted  to  cold  frames,  or  greenhouses.  If  left 
in  the  field,  they  should  be  partially  buried  with 
litter  or  coarse  manure.  As  the  ground  will  not  be 
occupied  more  than  a  third  of  the  second  season,  a 
crop  of  early  beets,  forcing  carrots,  radishes,  lettuce 
or  some  other  quick-maturing  crop  may  be  sown 
between  the  rows  of  parsley  plants.  Such  crops  will 
mature  by  the  time  the  parsley  seed  is  harvested 
in  late  May  or  early  June,  and  the  ground  can  then 
be  plowed  and  fitted  for  some  late  crop  such  as  early 
maturing  but  late-sown  sweet  corn,  celery,  dwarf 
peas,  late  beets  or  string  beans. 

When  seed  is  desired,  every  imperfect  or  unde- 
sirable plant  should  be  rooted  out  and  destroyed, 
so  that  none  but  the  best  can  fertilize  each  other. 
In  early  spring  the  litter  must  be  either  removed 
from  the  plants  and  the  ground  between  the  rows 
given  a  cultivation  to  loosen  the  surface,  or  it  may 
be  raked  between  the  rows  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  after  seed  harvest.  In  this  latter  case,  of 
course,  no  other  crop  can  be  grown. 

Like  celery  seed,  parsley  seed  ripens  very  irregu- 
larly, some  umbels  being  ready  to  cut  from  one  to 


CULINARY    HERBS  II7 

three  weeks  earlier  than  others.  This  quality  of  the 
plant  may  be  bred  out  by  keeping  the  earliest  ma- 
turing seed  separate  from  the  later  maturing  and 
choosing  this  for  producing  subsequent  seed  crops. 
By  such  selection  one  to  three  weeks  may  be  saved 
in  later  seasons,  a  saving  of  time  not  to  be  ignored 
in  gardening  operations. 

In  ordinary  seed  production  the  heads  are  cut 
when  the  bulk  of  the  seed  is  brown  or  at  least  dark 
colored.  The  stalks  are  cut  carefully,  to  avoid  shat- 
tering the  seed  off.  They  are  laid  upon  sheets  of 
duck  or  canvas  and  threshed  very  lightly,  at  once, 
to  remove  only  the  ripest  seed.  Then  the  stalks  are 
spread  thinly  on  shutters  or  sheets  in  the  sun  for 
two  days  and  threshed  again.  At  that  time  all  seed 
ripe  enough  to  germinate  will  fall  off.  Both  lots  of 
seed  must  be  spread  thinly  on  the  sheets  in  an  airy 
shed  or  loft  and  turned  daily  for  lo  days  or  two 
weeks  to  make  sure  they  are  thoroughly  dry  before 
being  screened  in  a  fanning  mill  and  stored  in  sacks 
hung  in  a  loft. 

J^arietics. — There  are  four  well-defined  groups  of 
parsley  varieties;  common  or  plain,  curled  or  moss- 
leaved,  fern-leaved,  and  Hamburg.  The  last  is  also 
known  as  turnip-rooted  or  large-rooted.  The  objec- 
tions to  plain  parsley  are  that  it  is  not  as  ornamental 
as  moss-leaved  or  fern-leaved  sorts,  and  because  it 
may  be  mistaken  for  fool's  parsley,  a  plant  reputed 
to  be  more  or  less  poisonous. 

In  the  curled  varieties  the  leaves  are  more  or  less 
deeply  cut  and  the  segments  reflexed  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  sometimes  even  to  the  extent  of  showing 


Il8  CULINARY    HERBS 

the  lighter  green  undersides.  In  this  group  are  several 
subvarieti.es,  distinguished  by  minor  differences,  such 
as  €xtent  of  reflexing  and  size  of  the  plants. 

In  the  fern-leaved  group  the  very  dark  green 
leaves  are  not  curled  but  divided  into  numerous 
threadlike  segments  which  give  the  plant  a  very 
delicate  and  dainty  appearance. 

Hamburg,  turnip-rooted  or  large-rooted  parsley,  is 
little  grown  in  America.  It  is  not  used  as  a  garnish 
or  an  herb,  but  the  root  is  cooked  as  a  vegetable  like 
carrots  or  beets.  These  roots  resemble  those  of 
parsnips.  They  are  often  6  inches  long  and  2  inches 
in  diameter.  Their  cultivation  is  like  that  of  pars- 
nips. They  are  cooked  and  served  like  carrots.  In 
flavor,  they  resemble  celeriac  or  turnip-rooted  celery, 
but  are  not  so  pleasing.  In  Germany  the  plant  is 
rather  popular,  but,  except  by  our  German  gardeners, 
it  has  been  little  cultivated  in  this  country. 

Uses. — The  Germans  use  both  roots  and  tops  for 
cooking;  the  former  as  a  boiled  vegetable,  the  latter 
as  a  potherb.  In  English  cookery  the  leaves  are 
more  extensively  used  for  seasoning  fricassees  and 
dressings  for  mild  meats,  such  as  chicken  and  veal, 
than  perhaps  anything  else.  In  American  cookery 
parsley  is  also  popular  for  this  purpose,  but  is  most 
extensively  used  as  a  garnish.  In  many  countries 
the  green  leaves  are  mixed  with  salads  to  add  flavor. 
Often,  especially  among  the  Germans,  the  minced 
green  leaves  are  mixed  with  other  vegetables  just 
before  being  served.  For  instance,  if  a  liberal  dust- 
ing of  finely  minced  parsley  be  added  to  peeled, 
boiled   potatoes,    immediately   after    draining,    this 


CULINARY    HERBS  IIQ 

vegetable  will  seem  like  a  new  dish  of  unusual  deli- 
cacy. The  potatoes  may  be  either  served  whole  or 
mashed  with  a  little  butter,  milk  and  pepper. 

Pennyroyal  (Mentha  Pule gium,  Linn.),  a  perennial 
herb  of  the  natural  order  Labiatse,  native  of  Europe 
and  parts  of  Asia,  found  wild  and  naturalized 
throughout  the  civilized  world  in.  strong,  moist  soil 
on  the  borders  of  ponds  and  streams.  Its  square, 
prostrate  stems,  which  readily  take  root  at  the 
nodes,  bear  roundish-oval,  grayish-green,  slightly 
hairy  leaves  and  small  lilac-blue  flowers  in  whorled 
clusters  of  ten  or  a  dozen,  rising  in  tiers,  one  above 
another,  at  the  nodes.  The  seed  is  light  brown,  oval 
and  very  small.  Like  most  of  its  near  relatives,  penny- 
royal is  highly  aromatic,  perhaps  even  more  so  than  any 
other  mint.  The  flavor  is  more  pungent  and  acrid  and 
less  agreeable  than  that  of  spearmint  or  peppermint. 

Ordinarily  the  plant  is  propagated  by  division  like 
mint,  or  more  rarely  by  cuttings.  Cultivation  is  the 
same  as  that  of  mint.  Plantations  generally  last 
for  four  or  five  years,  and  even  longer,  when  well 
managed  and  on  favorable  soil.  In  England  it  is 
more  extensively  cultivated  than  in  America  for 
drying  and  for  its  oil,  of  which  latter  a  yield  of  12 
pounds  to  the  acre  is  considered  good.  The  leaves, 
green  or  dried,  are  used  abroad  to  flavor  puddings  and 
other  culinary  preparations,  but  the  taste  and  odor  are 
usually  not  pleasant  to  American  and  English  pal- 
ates and  noses. 

Peppermint  (Mentha  piperita,  Linn.)  is  much  the 
same  in  habit  of  growth  as  spearmint.  It  is  a  native 
of  northern  Europe,  where  it  may  be  found  in  moist 


120  CULINARY    HERBS 

situations  along  stream  banks  and  in  waste  lands. 
In  America  it  is  probably  even  more  common  as  an 
escape  than  spearmint.  Like  its  relative,  it  has 
long  been  known  and  grown  in  gardens  and 
fields,  especially  in  Europe,  Asia  and  the  United 
States. 

Description. — Like  spearmint,  the  plant  has  creep- 
ing rootstocks,  which  rapidly  extend  it,  and  often  make 
it  a  troublesome  weed  in  moist  ground.  The  stems 
are  smaller  than  those  of  spearmint,  not  so  tall,  and 
are  more  purplish.  They  bear  ovate,  smooth  leaves 
upon  longer  stalks  than  those  of  spearmint.  The 
whorled  clusters  of  little,  reddish-violet  flowers  form 
loose,  interrupted  spikes.     No  seed  is  borne. 

Cultivation. — Although  peppermint  prefers  wet, 
even  swampy,  soil,  it  will  do  well  on  moist  loam.  It 
is  cultivated  like  spearmint.  In  Michigan,  western 
New  York  and  other  parts  of  the  country  it  is  grown 
commercially  upon  muck  lands  for  the  oil  distilled 
from  its  leaves  and  stems.  Among  essential  oils, 
peppermint  ranks  first  in  importance.  It  is  a  color- 
less, yellowish  or  greenish  liquid,  with  a  peculiar, 
highly  penetrating  odor  and  a  burning,  camphores- 
cent  taste.  An  interesting  use  is  made  of  it  by  san- 
itary engineers,  who  test  the  tightness  of  pipe  joints 
by  its  aid.  It  has  the  faculty  of  making  its  escape  and 
betraying  the  presence  of  leaks.  It  is  largely  employed 
in  the  manufacture  of  soaps  and  perfumery,  but 
probably  its  best  known  use  is  for  flavoring  con- 
fectionery. 

Rosemary  (Roscmarinus  officinalis,  Linn.) — As  its 
generic  name  implies,  rosemary  is  a  native  of  sea- 


CULINARY    HERBS  121 

coasts,  ''rose"  coming  from  Ros,  dew,  and  ''Mary"  from 
marimis,  ocean.  It  is  one  of  the  many  Labiatse  found 
wild  in  limy  situations  along  the  Mediterranean 
coast.  In  ancient  times  many  and  varied  virtues 
were  ascribed  to  the  plant,  hence  its  "officinalis"  or 
medical  name,  perhaps  also  the  belief  that  "where 
rosemary  flourishes,  the  lady  rules !"  Pliny,  Dios- 
corides  and  Galin  all  write  about  it.  It  was  culti- 
vated by  the  Spaniards  in  the  13th  century,  and  from 
the  15th  to  the  i8th  century  was  popular  as  a  condi- 
ment with  salt  meats,  but  has  since  declined  in  pop- 
ularity, until  now  it  is  used  for  seasoning  almost 
exclusively  in  Italian,  French,  Spanish  and  German 
cookery. 

Description. — The  plant  is  a  half-hardy  evergreen, 
2  feet  or  more  tall.  The  erect,  branching,  woody 
stems  bear  a  profusion  of  little  obtuse,  linear  leaves, 
green  above  and  hoary  white  beneath.  On  their 
upper  parts  they  bear  pale  blue,  axillary  flowers  in 
leafy  clusters.  The  light-brown  seeds,  white  where 
they  were  attached  to  the  plant,  will  germinate  even 
when  four  years  old.  All  parts  of  the  plant  are 
fragrant — "the  humble  rosemary  whose  sweets  so 
thanklessly  are  shed  to  scent  the  desert"  (Thomas 
Moore).  One  of  the  pleasing  superstitions  connected 
with  this  plant  is  that  it  strengthens  the  memory.  Thus 
it  has  become  the  emblem  of  remembrance  and  fidelity. 
Hence  the  origin  of  the  old  custom  of  wearing  it  at 
weddings  in  many  parts  of  Europe. 

"There's  rosemary,  that's  for  remembrance;  pray,  love,  re- 
member :     And  there  is  pansies,  that's  for  thoughts.  " 

—Ha77ilei.  Act  iv.   Scene  5. 


122  CULINARY    HERBS 

Cultivation. — Rosemary  is  easily  propagated  by 
means  of  cuttings,  root  division  and  layers  in  early 
spring,  but  is  most  frequently  multiplied  by  seed. 
It  does  best  in  rather  poor,  light  soil,  especially  if 
limy.  The  seed  is  either  sown  in  drills  i8  to  24 
inches  apart  or  in  checks  2  feet  asunder  each  way, 
half  a  dozen  seeds  being-  dropped  in  each  "hill." 
Sometimes  the  seedbed  method  is  employed,  the 
seed  being  sown  either  under  glass  or  in  the  open 
ground  and  the  seedlings  transplanted.  Cultivation 
consists  in  keeping  the  soil  loose  and  open  and  free 
from  weeds.  No  special  directions  are  necessary 
as  to  curing.  In  frostless  sections,  and  even-  where 
protected  by  buildings,  fences,  etc.,  in  moderate 
climates,  the  plants  will  continue  to  thrive  for  years. 

Uses. — The  tender  leaves  and  stems  and  the  flowers 
are  used  for  flavoring  stews,  fish  and  meat  sauces, 
but  are  not  widely  popular  in  America.  Our  for- 
eign-born population,  however,  uses  it  somewhat. 
In  France  large  quantities,  both  cultivated  and  wild, 
are  used  for  distilling  the  oil  of  rosemary,  a  color- 
less or  yellowish  liquid  suggesting  camphor,  but  even 
more  pleasant.  This  oil  is  extensively  used  in  perfum- 
ing soaps,  but  more  especially  in  the  manufacture  of 
eau  de  cologne,  Hungary  water  and  other  perfumes. 

Rue  (Ruta  graveolens,  Linn.),  a  hardy  perennial 
herb  of  roundish,  bushy  habit,  native  of  southern 
Europe.  It  is  a  member  of  the  same  botanical  fam- 
ily as  the  orange,  Rutacese.  In  olden  times  it  was 
highly  reputed  for  seasoning  and  for  medicine  among 
the  Greeks  and  the  Romans.  In  Pliny's  time  it  was 
considered  to  be  effectual  for  84  maladies!     Today 


CULINARY   HERBS  I23 

it  ''hangs  only  by  its  eyelids"  to  our  pharmacopoeia. 
Apicus  notes  it  among  the  condiments  in  the  third 
century,  and  Magnus  elej^'en  centuries  later  praises 
it  among  the  garden  esculents.  At  present  it  is 
little  used  for  seasoning,  even  by  the  Italians  and 
the  Germans,  and  almost  not  at  all  by  English  and 
American  cooks.  Probably  because  of  its  acridity 
and  its  ability  to  blister  the  skin  when  much  handled, 
rue  has  been  chosen  by  poets  to  express  disdain. 
Shakespeare  speaks  of  it  as  the  "sour  herb  of  grace," 
and  Theudobach  says : 

"When  a  rose  is  too  haughty  for  heaven's  dew- 
She  becometh  a  spider's  gray  lair  ; 
And  a  bosom,  that  never  devotion  knew 
Or  affection  divine,  shall  be  filled  with  rue 
And  with  darkness,  and  end  with  despair." 

Description. — The  much  branched  stems,  woody  be- 
low, rise  18  to  24  inches  and  bear  small  oblong  or 
obovate,  stalked,  bluish-green  glaucous  leaves,  two 
or  three  times  divided,  the  terminal  one  broader  and 
notched  at  the  end.  The  rather  large,  greenish- 
yellow  flowers,  borne  in  corymbs  or  short  terminal 
clusters,  appear  all  summer.  In  the  round,  four  or 
five-lobed  seed  vessels  are  black  kidney-shaped 
seeds,  which  retain  their  vitality  two  years  or  even 
longer.  The  whole  plant  has  a  very  acrid,  bitter 
taste  and  a  pungent  smell. 

Cultivation. — The  plant  may  be  readily  propagated 
by  means  of  seed,  by  cuttings,  by  layers,  and  by 
division  of  the  tufts.  No  special  directions  are 
needed,  except  to  say  that  when  in  the  place  they 
are  to  remain  the  plants  should  be  at  least  18  inches 


124 


CULINARY    HERBS 


apart — 21  or  24  inches  each  way  would  be  even 
better.  Rue  does  well  on  almost  any  well-drained 
soil,  but  prefers  a  rather  -poor  clayey  loam.  It  is 
well,  then,  to  plant  it  in  the  most  barren  part  of  the 
garden.  As  the  flowers  are  rather  attractive,  rue  is 
often  used  among  shrubbery  for  ornamental  pur- 


Rue,  Sour  Herb  of  Grace 


poses.    When  so  grown  it  is  well  to  cut  the  stems 
close  to  the  ground  every  two  or  three  years. 

Uses. — Because  of  the  exceedingly  strong  smell  of 
the  leaves,  rue  is  disagreeable  to  most  Americans, 
and  could  not  become  popular  as  a  seasoning.  Yet 
it  is  used  to  a  small  extent  by  people  who  like  bitter 
flavors,  not  only   in   culinary  preparations,  but   in 


CULINARY    HERBS  12$ 

beverages.  The  whole  plant  is  used  in  distilling  a 
colorless  oil  which  is  used  in  making  aromatic  vine- 
gars and  other  toilet  preparations.  A  pound  of  oil 
may  be  secured  from  150  to  200  pounds  of  the  plant. 

Sage  (Salvia  officinalis,  Linn.),  a  perennial  member 
of  the  Labiatae,  found  naturally  on  dry,  calcareous 
hills  in  southern  Europe,  and  northern  Africa.  In 
ancient  times,  it  was  one  of  the  most  highly 
esteemed  of  all  plants  because  of  its  reputed  health- 
insuring  properties.  An  old  adage  reads,  ''How  can 
a  man  die  in  whose  garden  sage  is  growing?"  Its 
very  names  betoken  the  high  regard  in  which  it  was 
held;  salvia  is  derived  from  salvus,  to  be  safe,  or 
salve 0,  to  be  in  good  health  or  to  heal;  (hence  also 
salvation!)  and  officinalis  stamps  its  authority  or  indi- 
cates its  recognized  official  standing.  The  name  sage, 
meaning  wisdom,  appears  to  have  had  a  different  origin, 
but  as  the  plant  was  reputed  to  strengthen  the  memory, 
there  seems  to  be  ground  for  believing  that  those  who 
ate  the  plant  would  be  wise. 

Description. — The  almost  woody  stems  rise  usually 
15  to  18  inches  high,  though  in  Holt's  Mammoth 
double  these  sizes  is  not  uncommon.  The  leaves  are 
oblong,  pal.e  green,  finely  toothed,  lance-shaped, 
wrinkled  and  rough.  The  usually  bluish-lilac,  some- 
times pink  or  white  flowers,  borne  in  the  axils  of  the 
upper  leaves  in  whorls  of  three  or  four,  form  loose 
terminal  spikes  or  clusters.  Over  7,000  of  the  small 
globular,  almost  black  seeds,  which  retain  their 
vitality  about  three  years,  are  required  to  weigh  an 
ounce,  and  nearly  20  ounces  to  the  quart. 

Cultivation. — Sage    does    best    upon    mellow    well- 


126 


CULINARY    HERBS 


Sage,  the  Leading  Herb  for  Duck  and  Goose  Dressing 


CULINARY    HERBS  127 

drained  soil  of  moderate  fertility.  For  cultivation 
on  a  large  scale  the  soil  should  be  plowed  deeply  and 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  rough  furrows  during  the 
winter,  to  be  broken  up  as  much  as  possible  by  the 
frost.  In  the  spring  it  should  be  fined  for  the  crop. 
Sage  is  easily  propagated  by  division,  layers  and 
cuttings,  but  these  ways  are  practiced  on  an  exten- 
sive scale  only  with  the  Holt's  Mammoth  variety, 
which  produces  no  seed.  For  other  varieties  seed 
is  most  popular.  This  is  sown  in  drills  at  the  rate  of 
two  seeds  to  the  inch  and  covered  about  Y^  inch 
deep.  At  this  rate  and  in  rows  15  inches  apart  about 
8  pounds  of  seed  will  be  needed  to  the  acre. 

Usually  market  gardeners  prefer  to  grow  sage  as 
a  second  crop.  They  therefore  raise  the  plants  in 
nursery  beds.  The  seed  is  sown  in  very  early 
spring,  not  thicker  than  already  mentioned,  but  in 
rows  closer  together,  6  to  9  inches  usually.  -From 
the  start  the  seedlings  are  kept  clean  cultivated 
and  encouraged  to  grow  stocky.  By  late  May  or 
early  June  the  first  sowings  of  summer  vegetables 
will  have  been  marketed  and  the  ground  ready  for 
the  sage.  The  ground  is  then  put  in  good  condi- 
tion and  the  sage  seedlings  transplanted  6  or  8 
inches  apart  usually.  Clean  cultivation  is  main- 
tained until  the  sage  has  possession. 

When  the  plants  meet,  usually  during  late 
August,  the  alternate  ones  are  cut,  bunched  and  sold. 
At  this  time  one  plant  should  make  a  good  bunch. 
When  the  rows  meet  in  mid-September,  the  alter- 
nate rows  are  marketed,  a  plant  then  making  about 
two  bunches.     By  the  middle  of  October  the  final 


128  CULINARY    HERBS 

cutting  may  be  started,  when  the  remaining  plants 
should  be  large  enough  to  make  about  three  bunches 
each.  This  last  cutting  may  continue  well  into  Novem- 
ber without  serious  loss  of  lower  leaves.  If  the  plants 
are  not  thinned,  but  are  allowed  to  crowd,  the  lower 
leaves  will  turn  yellow  and  drop  off,  thus  entailing  loss. 

For  cultivation  with  hand-wheel  hoes  the  plants 
in  the  rows  should  not  stand  closer  than  2  inches  at 
first.  As  soon  as  they  touch,  each  second  one  should 
be  removed  and  this  process  repeated  till,  when 
growing  in  a  commercial  way,  each  alternate  row 
has  been  removed.  Finally,  the  plants  should  be  12 
to  15  inches  apart.  For  cultivation  by  horse  the 
rows  will  need  to  be  farther  apart  than  already 
noted;  18  to  24  inches  is  the  usual  range  of  distances. 
When  grown  on  a  large  scale,  sage  usually  follows 
field-grown  lettuce,  early  peas  or  early  cabbage.  If 
not  cut  too  closely  or  too  late  in  the  season  sage 
plants  stand  a  fair  chance  to  survive  moderate  win- 
ters. The  specimens  which  succeed  in  doing  so  may 
be  divided  and  transplanted  to  new  soil  with  little 
trouble.  This  is  the  common  practice  in  home  gar- 
dens, and  is  usually  more  satisfactory  than  growing 
a  new  lot  of  plants  from  seed  each  spring. 

For  drying  or  for  decocting  the  leaves  are  cut 
when  the  flowers  appear.  They  are  dried  in  the 
shade.  If  a  second  cutting  is  to  be  made,  and  if  it 
is  desired  that  the  plants  shall  live  over  winter,  this 
second  cutting  must  not  be  made  later  than  Sep- 
tember in  the  North,  because  the  new  stems  will 
not  have  time  to  mature  before  frost,  and  the  plants 
will  probably  winterkill. 


CULINARY    HERBS 


129 


Sage  seed  is  produced  in  open  cups  on  slender 
branches,  which  grow  well  above  the  leaves.  It 
turns  black  when  ripe.  The  stems  which  bear  it 
should  be  cut  during  a  dry  afternoon  as  soon  as 
the  seeds  are  ripe  and  placed  on  sheets  to  cure;  and 
several  cuttings  are  necessary,  because  the  seed 
ripens  unevenly.  When  any  one  lot  of  stems  on 
a  sheet  is  dry  a  light  flail  or  a  rod  will  serve  to  beat 
the  seed  loose.  Then  small 
sieves  and  a  gentle  breeze 
will  separate  the  seed  from 
the  trash.  After  screening 
the  seed  should  be  spread  on 
a  sheet  in  a  warm,  airy  place 
for  a  week  or  so  to  dry  still 
more  before  being  stored  in 
cloth  sacks.  A  fair  yield  of 
leaves  may  be  secured  after 
seed  has  been  gathered. 

Uses. — Because  of  their 
highly  aromatic  odor  sage 
leaves  have  long  been  used 
for  seasoning  dressings, 
especially  to  disguise  the  too  great  lusciousness  of 
strong  meats,  such  as  pork,  goose  and  duck.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  important  flavoring  ingredients  in  cer- 
tain kinds  of  sausage  and  cheese.  In  France  the 
whole  herb  is  used  to  distill  with  water  in  order  to 
secure  essential  oil  of  sage,  a  greenish-yellow  liquid 
employed  in  perfumery.  About  300  pounds  of  the 
stems  and  leaves  yield  one  pound  of  oil. 

Samphire  (Crithmum  maritimum,  Linn.),  a  Euro- 


Relative  Sizes  of  Holt's  Mam- 
moth and  Common  Sage 
Leaves 


I30 


CULINARY    HERBS 


Dainty  Summer  Savory 


pean  perennial  of 
t  h  e  Umbellifer^e, 
common  along  rocky 
sea  coasts  and  cliffs 
beyond  the  reach  of 
the  tide.  From  its 
creeping  rootstocks 
short,  sturdy,  more 
or  less  widely 
branched  stems 
arise.  These  bear 
two  or  three  thick, 
fl  e  s  h  y  segmented 
leaves  and  umbels 
of  small  whitish 
flowers,  followed  by 
yellow,  elliptical, 
convex,  ribbed,  very 
light  seeds,  which 
rarely  retain  their 
germinating  power 
more  than  a  year. 
In  gardens  the  seed 
is  therefore  gener- 
ally sown  in  the 
autumn  as  soon  as 
mature  in  fairly 
rich,  light,  well- 
drained  loam.  The 
seedlings  should  be 
protected  with  a 
mulch      of      straw, 


CULINARY    HERBS  I3I 

leaves  or  other  material  during  winter.  After  the 
removal  of  the  mulch  in  the  spring  no  special  care  is 
needed  in  cultivation.  The  young,  tender,  aromatic 
and  saline  leaves  and  shoots  are  pickled  in  vinegar, 
either  alone  or  with  other  vegetables. 

Savory,  Summer  (Satureia  hortensis,  Linn.),  a  lit- 
tle annual  plant  of  the  natural  order  Labiatse  indig- 
enous to  Mediterranean  countries  and  known  as  an 
escape  from  gardens  in  various  parts  of  the  world. 
In  America,  it  is  occasionally  found  wild  on  dry, 
poor  soils  in  Ohio,  Illinois,  and  some  of  the  western 
states.  The  generic  name  is  derived  from  an  old 
Arabic  name,  Ssattar,  by  which  the  whole  mint  family 
was  known.  Among  the  Romans  both  summer  and 
winter  savory  were  popular  2,000  years  ago,  not 
only  for  flavoring,  but  as  potherbs.  During  the 
middle  ages  and  until  the  i8th  century  it  still  main- 
tained this  popularity.  Up  to  about  100  years  ago 
it  was  used  in  cakes,  puddings  and  confections,  but 
these  uses  have  declined. 

Description. — The  plant,  which  rarely  exceeds  12 
inches  in  height,  has  erect,  branching,  herbaceous 
stems,  with  oblong-linear  leaves,  tapering  at  their 
bases,  and  small  pink  or  white  flowers  clustered  in 
the  axils  of  the  upper  leaves,  forming  penciled 
spikes.  The  small,  brown,  ovoid  seeds  retain  their 
viability  about  three  years.  An  ounce  contains 
about  42,500  of  them,  and  a  quart  18  ounces. 

Cultivation. — For  earliest  use  the  seed  may  be  sown 
in  a  spent  hotbed  or  a  cold  frame  in  late  March,  and 
the  plants  set  in  the  open  during  May.  Usually, 
however,  it  is  sown  in  the  garden  or  the  field  where 


132  CULINARY    HERBS 

the  plants  are  to  remain.  In  the  hotbed  the  rows 
may  be  3  or  4  inches  apart;  in  the  field  they  should 
be  not  less  than  9  inches,  and  only  this  distance 
when  hand  wheel-hoes  are  to  be  used,  and  each  alter- 
nate row  is  to  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  plants 
begin  to  touch  across  the  rows.  Half  a  dozen  seeds 
dropped  to  the  inch  is  fairly  thick  sowing.  As  the 
seed  is  small,  it  must  not  be  covered  deeply;  ^4  i^^ch 
is  ample.  When  the  rows  are  15  inches  apart  about 
4  pounds  of  seed  will  be  needed  to  the  acre.  For 
horse  cultivation  the  drills  should  be  20  inches  apart. 
Both  summer  and  winter  savory  do  well  on  rather 
poor  dry  soils.  If  started  in  hotbeds,  the  first  plants 
may  be  gathered  during  May.  Garden-sown  seed 
will  produce  plants  by  June.  For  drying,  the  nearly 
mature  stems  should  be  cut  just  as  the  blossoms 
begin  to  appear.  No  special  directions  are  needed 
as  to  drying.     (See  page  25.) 

Uses. — Both  summer  and  winter  savory  are  used 
in  flavoring  salads,  dressings,  gravies,  and  sauces 
used  with  meats  such  as  veal,  pork,  duck,  and  goose 
and  for  increasing  the  palatability  of  such  prepara- 
tions as  croquettes,  rissoles  and  stews.  Summer 
savory  is  the  better  plant  of  the  two  and  should  be 
in  every  home  garden. 

Savory,  Winter  (Satureia  montana,  Linn.),  a  semi- 
hardy,  perennial,  very  branching  herb,  native  of 
southern  Europe  and  northern  Africa.  Like  sum- 
mer savory,  it  has  been  used  for  flavoring  for  many 
centuries,  but  is  not  now  as  popular  as  formerly, 
nor  is  it  as  popular  as  summer  savory. 


CULINARY   HERBS  133 

Description. — The  numerous  woody,  slender,  spread- 
ing stems,  often  more  than  15  inches  tall,  bear  very 
acute,  narrow,  linear  leaves  and  pale  lilac,  pink,  or 
white  flowers  in  axillary  clusters.  The  brown, 
rather  triangular  seeds,  which  retain  their  vitality 
about  three  years,  are  smaller  than  those  of  summer 
savory.  Over  70,000  are  in  an  ounce,  and  it  takes 
15  ounces  to  fill  a  quart. 

Cultivation.— Winter  savory  is  readily  propagated 
by  means  of  cuttings,  layers  and  division  as  well  as 
seeds.  No  directions  different  from  those  relating 
to  summer  savory  are  necessary,  except  that  seed  of 
winter  savory  should  be  sown  where  the  plants  are 
to  remain,  because  the  seedlings  do  not  stand  trans- 
planting very  well.  Seed  is  often  sown  in  late  sum- 
mer where  the  climate  is  not  severe  or  where  winter 
protection  is  to  be  given.  The  plant  is  fairly  hardy 
on  dry  soils.  When  once  established  it  will  live  for 
several  years. 

To  increase  the  yield  the  stems  may  be  cut  to 
within  4  or  5  inches  of  the  ground  when  about  ready 
to  flower.  New  shoots  will  appear  and  may  be  cut 
in  turn.  For  drying,  the  first  cutting  may  be  secured 
during  July,  the  second  in  late  August  or  September. 
In  all  respects  winter  savory  is  used  like  summer 
savory,  but  is  considered  inferior  in  flavor. 

Southernwood  (Artemisia  Ahrotanum,  Linn.),  a 
woody-stemmed  perennial  belonging  to  the  Compos- 
itse  and  a  native  of  southern  Europe.  It  grows  from 
2  to  4  feet  tall,  bears  hairlike,  highly  aromatic  leaves 
and  heads  of  small  yellow  flowers.  The  plant  is 
often  found  in  old-fashioned  gardens  as  an  orna- 


134  CULINARY    HERBS 

mental  under  the  name  of  Old  Man.  In  some  coun- 
tries the  young  shoots  are  used  for  flavoring  cakes 
and  other  culinary  preparations. 

Tansy  (Tanacetiim  vulgare,  Linn.),  a  perennial  of 
the  Compositse,  native  of  Europe,  whence  it  has 
spread  with  civilization  as  a  weed  almost  all  over 
the  world.  From  the  very  persistent  underground 
parts  annual,  usually  unbranched  stems,  sometimes 
3  feet  tall,  are  produced  in  more  or  less  abundance. 
They  bear  much-divided,  oval,  oblong  leaves  and 
numerous  small,  yellow  flower-heads  in  usually 
crowded  corymbs.  The  small,  nearly  conical  seeds 
have  five  gray  ribs  and  retain  their  germinability 
for  about  two  years. 

Tansy  is  easily  propagated  by  division  of  the  clumps 
or  by  seed  sown  in  a  hotbed  for  the  transplant- 
ing of  seedlings.  It  does  well  in  any  moderately 
fertile  garden  soil,  but  why  anyone  should  grow 
it  except  for  ornament,  either  in  the  garden  or  as  an 
inedible  garnish,  is  more  than  I  can  understand. 
While  its  odor  is  not  exactly  repulsive,  its  acrid, 
bitter  taste  is  such  that  a  nibble,  certainly  a  single 
leaf,  would  last  most  people  a  lifetime.  Yet  some 
people  use  it  to  flavor  puddings,  omelettes,  salads, 
stews  and  other  culinary  dishes.  Surely  a  peculiar 
order  of  gustatory  preference !  It  is  said  that  don- 
keys will  eat  thistles,  but  I  have  never  known  them 
to  eat  tansy,  and  I  am  free  to  confess  that  I  rather 
admire  their  preference  for  the  thistles. 

Tarragon  (Artemisia  Dracunculus,  Linn.j,  a  fairly 
hardy,  herbaceous  rather  shrubby  perennial  of  the 
Compositse,  supposed  to  be  a  native  of  southern 


CULINARY    HERBS 


135 


Russia,  Siberia,  and  Tartary,  cultivated  for  scarcely 
more  than  500  years  for  its  leaves  and  tender  shoots. 
In  all  civilized  countries  its  popular  name,  like  its 
specific  name,  means  dragon,  though  why  it  should 
be  so  called  is  not  clear. 


y 

^  ^4^^-  •*,^-^ 

/      ^       ^ 

A 

A-' ' 

% 

1 

^A 

-ix3 

1^^ 

^91 

^ 

mW 

X 

Tarragon,  the    French   Chef's   Delight 


Description. — The  plant  has  numerous  branching 
stems,  which  bear  lance-shaped  leaves  and  nowadays 
white,  sterile  flowers.  Formerly  the  flowers  were 
said  to  be  fertile.  No  one  should  buy  the  seed 
offered  as  tarragon.  It  is  probably  that  of  a  related 
plant  which  resembles  tarragon  in  everything  ex- 
cept flavor — which  is  absent!     Tagetes  lucida,  which 


136  CULINARY    HERBS 

may  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  true  tarragon,  is 
easily  propagated  by  seed  and  can  be  procured  from 
seedsmen  under  its  own  name.  As  tarragon  flowers 
appear  to  be  perfect,  it  is  possible  that  some  plants 
may  produce  a  few  seeds,  and  that  plants  raised 
from  these  seeds  may  repeat  the  wonder.  Indeed,  a 
variety  which  naturally  produces  seed  may  thus  be 
developed  and  disseminated.  Here  is  one  of  the 
possible  opportunities  for  the  herb  grower  to  benefit 
his  fellow-men. 

Cultivation. — At  present  tarragon  is  propagated 
only  by  cuttings,  layers  and  division.  There  is  no 
difficulty  in  either  process.  The  plant  prefers  dry, 
rather  poor  soil,  in  a  warm  situation.  In  cold 
climates  it  should  be  partially  protected  during  the 
winter  to  prevent  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  of 
both  the  soil  and  the  plant.  In  moist  and  heavy  soil 
it  will  winterkill.  Strawy  litter  or  conifer  boughs 
will  serve  the  purpose  well.  Half  a  dozen  to  a  dozen 
plants  will  supply  the  needs  of  a  family.  As  the  plants 
spread  a  good  deal  and  as  they  grow  15  to  18  inches 
tall,  or  even  more,  they  should  be  set  in  rows  18  to 
24  inches  apart  each  way.  In  a  short  time  they  will 
take  possession  of  the  ground. 

Uses. — The  tender  shoots  and  the  young  leaves  are 
often  used  in  salads,  and  with  steaks,  chops,  etc., 
especially  by  the  French.  They  are  often  used  as 
an  ingredient  in  pickles.  Stews,  soups,  croquettes, 
and  other  meat  preparations  are  also  flavored  with 
tarragon,  and  for  flavoring  fish  sauces  it  is  especially 
esteemed. 


CULINARY    HERBS 


137 


Probably  the  most  popular  way  it  is  employed, 
however,  is  as  a  decoction  in  vinegar.  For  this  pur- 
pose, the  green  parts  are  gathered  preferably  in  the 
morning  and  after  washing  are  placed  in  jars  and 
covered  with  the  best 
quality  vinegar  for  a  few 
days.  The  vinegar  is  then 
drawn  off  as  needed.  In 
France,  the  famous  vine- 
gar of  Maille  is  made  in 
this  way. 

The  leaves  may  be 
dried  in  the  usual  way  if 
desired.  For  this  purpose 
they  are  gathered  in  mid- 
summer. A  second  cut- 
ting may  be  made  in  late 
September  or  early  Octo- 
ber. Tarragon  oil,  which 
is  used  for  perfuming 
toilet  articles,  is  secured 
by  distilling  the  green 
parts,  from  300  to  500 
pounds  of  which  yield 
one  pound  of  oil. 

Thyme  (Thymus  vul- 
garis,    Linn.),     a     very 

diminutive  perennial  shrub,  of  the  natural  order  Labia- 
tse,  native  of  dry,  stony  places  on  Mediterranean  coasts, 
but  found  occasionally  naturalized  as  an  escape 
from  gardens  in  civilized  countries,  both  warm  and 
cold.    From  early  days  it  has  been  popularly  grown 


Thyme   for  Sausage 


138  CULINARY    HERBS 

for  culinary  purposes.  The  name  is  from  the  Greek 
word  thyo,  or  sacrifice,  because  of  its  use  as  incense 
to  perfume  the  temples.  With  the  Romans  it  was 
very  popular  both  in  cookery  and  as  a  bee  forage. 
Like  its  relatives  sage  and  marjoram,  it  has  practi- 
cally disappeared  from  medicine,  though  formerly 
it  was  very  popular  because  of  its  reputed  properties. 

Description. — The  procumbent,  branched,  slender, 
woody  stems,  which  seldom  reach  12  inches,  bear 
oblong,  triangular,  tapering  leaves  from  ^  to  ^ 
inch  long,  green  above  and  gray  beneath.  In  the 
axils  of  the  upper  leaves  are  little  pink  or  lilac  flow- 
ers, which  form  whorls  and  loose,  leafy  spikes.  The 
seeds,  of  which  there  are  170,000  to  the  ounce,  and 
24  ounces  to  the  quart,  retain  their  germinating 
power  for  three  years. 

Cultivation. — Thyme  does  best  in  a  rather  dry, 
moderately  fertile,  light  soil  well  exposed  to  the 
sun.  Cuttings,  layers  and  divisions  may  be  made, 
but  the  popular  way  to  propagate  is  by  seed.  Be- 
cause the  seed  is  very  small,  it  should  be  sown  very 
shallow  or  only  pressed  upon  the  surface  and  then 
sprinkled  with  finely  sifted  soil.  A  small  seedbed 
should  be  used  in  preference  to  sowing  in  the  open 
ground  first,  because  better  attention  can  be  given 
such  little  beds;  second,  because  the  area  where  the 
plants  are  ultimately  to  be  can  be  used  for  an  early- 
maturing  crop.  In  the  seedbed  made  out  of  doors 
in  early  spring,  the  drills  may  be  made  4  to  6  inches 
apart  and  the  seeds  sown  at  the  rate  of  5  or  6  to  the 
inch.  A  pound  should  produce  enough  plants  for 
an  acre.     In  hand  sowing  direct  in  the  field,  a  fine 


CULINARY   HERBS  139 

dry  sand  is  often  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  seed 
to  prevent  too  close  planting.  The  proportion 
chosen  is  sometimes  as  great  as  four  times  as  much 
sand  as  seed.  Whether  sown  direct  in  the  field  or 
transplanted  the  plants  should  finally  not  stand 
closer  than  8  inches — lo  is  preferred.  When  first  set 
they  may  be  half  this  distance.  In  a  small  way 
one  plant  to  the  square  foot  is  a  good  rate  to  follow. 
The  young  plants  may  be  set  in  the  field  during 
June,  or  even  as  late  as  July,  preferably  just  before 
or  just  after  a  shower.  The  alternate  plants  may 
be  removed  in  late  August  or  early  September,  the 
alternate  rows  about  three  weeks  later  and  the  final 
crop  in  October. 

Thyme  will  winter  well.  In  home  garden  practice 
it  may  be  treated  like  sage.  In  the  coldest  climates 
it  may  be  mulched  with  leaves  or  litter  to  prevent 
undue  thawing  and  freezing  and  consequent  heav- 
ing of  the  soil.  In  the  spring  the  plants  should  be 
dug,  divided  and  reset  in  a  new  situation. 

When  seed  is  desired,  the  ripening  tops  must  be 
cut  frequently,  because  the  plants  mature  very  un- 
evenly. But  this  method  is  often  more  wasteful 
than  spreading  cloths  or  sheets  of  paper  beneath 
the  plants  and  allowing  the  seed  to  drop  in  them 
as  it  ripens.  Twice  a  day,  preferably  about  noon, 
and  in  the  late  afternoon  the  plants  should  be  gently 
jarred  to  make  the  ripe  seeds  fall  into  the  sheets. 
What  falls  should  then  be  collected  and  spread  in 
a  warm,  airy  room  to  dry  thoroughly.  When  this 
method  is  practiced  the  stems  are  cut  finally;  that 
is,  when  the  bulk  of  the  seed  has  been  gathered. 


140  CULINARY    HERBS 

They  are  dried,  threshed  or  rubbed  and  the  trash 
removed,  by  sifting.  During  damp  weather  the 
seed  will  not  separate  readily  from  the  plants. 

Of  the  common  thyme  there  are  two  varieties : 
narrow-leaved  and  broad-leaved.  The  former,  which 
has  small  grayish-green  leaves,  is  more  aromatic 
and  pleasing  than  the  latter,  which,  however,  is 
much  more  popular,  mainly  because  of  its  size,  and 
not  because  of  its  superiority  to  the  narrow-leaved  kind. 
It  is  also  known  as  winter  or  German  thyme.  The 
plant  is  taller  and  larger  and  has  bigger  leaves, 
flowers  and  seeds  than  the  narrow-leaved  variety 
and  IS  decidedly  more  bitter. 

Uses. — The  green  parts,  either  fresh,  dried  or  in 
decoction,  are  used  very  extensively  for  flavoring 
soups,  gravies,  stews,  sauces,  forcemeats,  sausages, 
dressings,  etc.  For  drying,  the  tender  stems  are 
gathered  after  the  dew  is  off  and  exposed  to  warm 
air  in  the  shade.  When  crisp  they  are  rubbed,  the 
trash  removed  and  the  powder  placed  in  stoppered 
bottles  or  tins.  All  parts  of  the  plant  are  fragrant 
because  of  the  volatile  oil,  which  is  commercially 
distilled  mainly  in  France.  About  one  per  cent  of 
the  green  parts  is  oil,  which  after  distillation  is  at 
first  a  reddish-brown  fluid.  It  loses  its  color  on 
redistillation  and  becomes  slightly  less  fragrant. 
Both  grades  of  oil  are  used  commercially  in  per- 
fumery. In  the  oil  are  also  crystals  (thymol),  which 
resemble  camphor  and  because  of  their  pleasant 
odor  are  used  as  a  disinfectant  where  the  strong- 
smelling  carbolic  acid  would  be  objectionable. 


CULINARY   HERBS  I4I 

Besides  common  thyme  two  other  related  species 
are  cultivated  to  some  extent  for  culinary  purposes. 
Lemon  thyme  (T.  citriodorus,  Pers.),  like  its  com- 
mon relative,  is  a  little  undcrshrub,  with  procum- 
bent stems  and  with  a  particularly  pleasing  fragrance. 
Wild  thyme,  or  mother-of -thyme  (T.  serpylhmi, 
Linn.),  is  a  less  grown  perennial,  with  violet 
or  pink  flowers.  It  is  occasionally  seen  in  country 
home  gardens,  and  is  also  used  somewhat   for  sea- 


INDEX 


Page 

Angelica    ^^ 

candied   ^9 

Anise     ^^ 

in    Bible    13 

Bags   of   herbs    6 

Balm    63 

demand   for   20 

Barrel  of  herbs ^2 

Basil    ^ 

demand   for    20 

tree    6S 

Bible,  herbs  mentioned   m    12 

Borage    '1 

Bouquet  of  herbs   6 

Bride's  trousseau    _~ 

Caraway    ^3 

Catnip     '' 

Chervil    3,9 

Chives     80 

Clar%-   81 

Cleveland,   John,    quoted    101 

Coriander     82 

Cultivation    ^ 

Cumin     84 

in    Bible    13 

Curing     22 

Cuttings,   propagation   by    34 

Dibbles   tabooed    42 

Dill    87 

demand   for    21 

for    pickles     21 

Dinner  of  herbs I 

Division,   propagation   by    3/ 

Double  cropping   4S 

Dning 25 

Dr\-mg  seeds   -^^ 

Eggs,    stuffed    9 

Evaporator     26 

Fennel     89 

demand   for    20 

Florence      93 

Fennel    Flower    9^ 

Finocchio    93 

Garnishes     19,30 

Herb   history    12 

Histop.-    of    herbs     1- 

Hoarhound     9^ 

Hyssop    9b 

In'gelow,  Jean  quoted 101 

Lavender     9_^ 

and  linen    ' 

Layers,  propagation  by   3b 

Lovage    99 


Page 

Lunch,    herb    ^ 

MacDonald,  George,  quoted 72 

Marigold     J^O 

Marjoram      ^ 

demand   for    20 

Market   gardening,   herb    l^^ 

Medicine,    herbs    in    SS^^ 

Mint     lOf 

demand    for     21 

in   Bible    13 

Moschus  quoted    109 

Moving   pictures    ^ 

Omelette,    herb     9 

Packages   for  selling   14 

Parsley    109 

in    most    demand    19 

Peppermint     119 

Pictures,    moving    ^ 

Pillows  full  of  herbs   o 

Propagation      3_ 

Rosemar>-   J^^ 

Rue      122 

in   Bible    13 

Sage    12^ 

in   demand    -'^ 

Salad,   herb    9 

Samphire    1-2 

Sandwiches,    herb    and    cheese     ..        o 

lettuce    and   nasturtium    10 

Savon.',    demand    for    20 

summer     131 

winter      '■?- 

Seeds,    propagation   by    3_ 

Selection    for    variety    •  .  •  •      1^ 

Shakespeare    quoted    6,  53,  1^1 

Sieves,   sizes    to    use    29 

Soda    water     3 

Soil   preparation    -^^ 

Solomon's  herb   dinner    3 

Soup,    parsley    » 

Southernwood    '^f 

Storing    r^ 

Superstitions  about  herbs ^| 

Tagetes  lucida 13^ 

Tansy    34 

Tarragon     J'?^ 

Theudobach  quoted    J-^ 

Th>Tne     13' 

demand   for   -^ 

lemon    1*1 

Transplanting     • ^Z 

Varieties,   production   of j^ 

Water,   imrjortance   of    ■*» 


143 


KOreRTT  LJSURT 


